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Here's some reading for you before you dive in to that "spare". https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/121582-transmission-reseal-new-bearing-with-pics/ https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/95638-411-awd-dual-range-in-legacy/page/2/ https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/100318-ej-dr-tranny-s-from-nz-ive-read-many-recent-threads-want-newest-info/ Can't recall which long gone member had a complete tear down description, but I think el freddo might know. Gloyale did some, el freddo did some.

Factory EA82 studs have about a 14.2mm knurl diameter (according to the Dorman listing), new gen Subarus are 14.38 (but the shoulder is too long for EA applications, as the rotor doesn't slip over the studs). Looks like I used a 35/64 drill bit (13.89mm). I also used Dorman 610378 studs, which have a 14.48mm knurl diameter, smaller head (easier to seat with the curved material on the back of the hub where they need to be), about 10mm longer overall, but short enough shoulder even for steelies (open lug nuts required, though).

Now we’re talkin’ , thanks man. I’ll be doing that after my lunch.

Most shops are willing to press a bearing into a knuckle for a nominal fee. This would be far cheaper than replacing all those parts. Same amount of labor. Only downside is having the car apart for a trip to a shop. Heck, probably would still be economical to buy a junkyard knuckle and have a shop press in bearings. We had a customer bring their car into the dealership where I work for a rear bearing. Turned out it had a complete aftermarket knuckle installed not long ago (not purchased from a retailer willing to help with the replacement cost). We tried to install an OEM bearing, and it didn't fit! We had to replace the hub with an OEM one as well. Just another story of the risks of cheap parts.

I do not delete EGR on almost any of my vehicles. But I know they often have a temperature sensor as part of the circuit to verify the systems functionality. Good video, I suggest you watch it. Lots of good information about why it's supposed to be exhaust gasses. It's not "just air".

Super easy. Unplug the white connector from the module mounted vertically to the left of the steering column. Here's the old write-up on it, but looks like the pictures are dead. https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/diy-disabling-drl-2000-2004.6668/

I have a 3 day weekend coming up so I'll be taking the time to begin trying to take it apart then. I found a section 1-3 FSM for cheap on eBay so I don't have to wait around to get my other one back. I tried taking the T-case cover plate off last night to see if there was anything obvious. The RTV is gonna be a headache, it seriously doesn't wanna budge. Glued, screwed, and tattooed down. My idea for dealing with the RTV was getting it hot with a torch and gently using a razor blade to cut into the softened sealant. I do worry about residue from burning. I'm just going to have to be very thorough with cleaning the internals. I'll be recording as much of the disassembly as I can/remember to. I'll be posting links to the videos when pertinent. I'm kind of glad I got a "broken" box, now I can practice servicing one without the stress of potentially damaging a good transmission. There'll be more to come :]

Hmmm… think I’m looking at EJ cases too much these days, I don’t remember the top of the bell housing being so rounded. And those dowel hole up top - never seen that before, maybe a series 1 thing, I haven’t played with those gearboxes before. Cool audio clip. Could be many things - crown wheel touching the low range selector ring if they did a diff ratio swap (in which case, have a look at the pinion shaft for a weld mark); reverse gear partially engaged enough to click/grind like that - or a partially engaged drive gear for that matter too. So many possibilities of what it could be. Either way, don’t just drop that box in (as established)! Looking forward to autopsy pics Cheers Bennie

East coast folks I have a front windshield on eBay right now. $200 pick up in Milford CT ”cashingmystuffin” on eBay. I’m very very very serious about cleaning house. Stop by and enjoy the savings.

I have access to prodemand. I will look it up and update Thank you

You guys are awesome. Thank you for replying. I thought about the ebrake thing also. Lifting up on it slightly when pulling in the driveway starting to be a pain. I could look up schematic and use a jumper wire but maybe as a last resort. I'll look into that module. Must be the drl module that's being talked about?

Sounds like one of the forks is out of place and gear synchro cogs are hitting as you turn it. Time to open it up, unless you can return it still.

Hey just so you know the advice I gave you was from a master Subaru tech who did this often. I also had to drop a pan and change out a full transmission harness etc. It’s not too big of a deal really. Good luck. Transmission pan gasket and some sealant if you desire. I think only sealant on the pan not to the block. That’s what I do on my old school pans. Never an issue.

I’ve heard tree frogs make that noise. Seriously , doesn’t sound normal to me.

Is this where some guy chimes in to break your stones about not having a reciprocating saw? Oh wait that’s FB Cool deal. I’m with you for having as opposed to finding out later you have not. You can trash it when the job is done I always say. Keep up the good work. This is very likely on my horizon.

For a ea 82 carbed single port .

Early Model Dual Range 5-19-25.m4a Also attached is some front diff noises from the mystery box. :]

Got the transmission tunnel and parts of the firewall out as well as the remaining brake and fuel lines. The husk is now well and truly a husk. Some might ask "why the firewall?" when i have a perfectly good Brat firewall and my response is to preserve the mounting hole patterns for the Impreza parts like the brake master cylinder and passthroughs. I may not need them all but this way I at least have good templates or even pieces to splice in where I need them later. Getting the Impreza body scrapped this week and putting the brat back up on stands to get the rear end removed. Looking at it I assumed the removal would be an easier task than it was - there's way more structural stuff in there than it appears at first glance, especially were I've cut it. Took me much longer than anticipated to finish the removal, especially since I was using a 4.5" angle grinder to do it. Were I to do this again or make suggestions to other folks - use a good reciprocating saw at the support ribs - it will make for much cleaner cuts.

Are these "Densos" any good? The printing says they're made in the US: https://www.amazon.com/Denso-IK20-Iridium-Power-Spark/dp/B000M6UR82/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8&th=1

Yes that was center to center. I'll take some photos of the boxes after work to show the mounting hole patterns. Based off the T-case, it looks to me like an 85-87 box. I'm mainly looking at the big blob in the casting on the T-case and the switch locations. I will have to wait before I start tearing into the spare box, my engine rebuilder has my hardcopy of my FSM at the moment so they can check tolerances. The downloaded FSM I have doesn't have any content between sections 2 & 6. (Jumps from engine to electrical) Do you have any pointers for the T-case disassembly, Benny? That's the main thing that is a concern for me. Thanks :]

Is that measurement centre to centre? I know it’s not much different, bolt thickness really. A cross reference of the lower studs to opposite top bolt hole will confirm I reckon. If you have an EA82 gearbox you’ve already got the good bits. The only thing you need for the EJ dual range setup is the front cases from a dual range EJ gearbox - must be a phase 1 as they messed around and changed some specs in the reverse gear that would weaken it if a phase 2 case was used with phase 1 internals. I reckon it would be worth opening up that box just for a look. Could be interesting to see what was done (or more likely not done). Cheers Bennie

Which tensioner? We just did the timing belt on a '95 EJ22, and had to get a Helicoil set for M10x1.24 for a stripped bolt hole. I believe it was the bolt holding a pulley, not the one for the tensioner. Anyway, if you have the bolt, just carry it into the hardware store and find a nut that fits it, then you'll know the size. Get a Helicoil kit, fix the hole right, and it's better than new.

Hi brothers, I'm looking for AccessTuner Race (ATR) files for my 2011 WRX. If anyone can help or share what they have, we can rebuild the full list for the community. Here are some I already have available: 2002–2003 Subaru WRX 2004 Subaru WRX & STI 2005 Subaru WRX & STI 2006 Subaru WRX & STI 2007 Subaru WRX & STI 2008–2009 Subaru WRX STI 2011 Subaru WRX STI 2013 Subaru WRX STI 2014 Subaru WRX STI 2015 Subaru WRX & STI 2016 Subaru WRX 🗂️ Shared folder link: Google Drive Folder Let’s help each other preserve these tools! Thanks in advance 🙏 and many thanks to machineica.

We did drain the pan and put in fresh ATF before we started driving it. Checked the level after the problem started and it still looks fresh, and about the right level on the dip stick. That's odd that it still looks fresh, the stuff we drained out was NOT fresh. I was expecting the 2/3 left in the torque converter and transmission to darken the fresh stuff.

Hey everyone. I'm looking to do my own 6 lug conversion. I need to drill the holes so the lug nuts don't spin obviously. Does anyone know what size drill bit I need to buy so the splines on the studs bite into the hubs? 9/16" end wrench will fit over the stud itself, 14mm won't, but I feel like the stud could spin in the hole with that size.