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http://opposedforces.com/parts/ back online. It goes out periodically.

Different model to the OP with your brat @ChuckPT - and the easier fix is to take the slop out of the bracket between the selector shaft and the gear stick. This is usually achieved by removing the bracket, putting a horizontal slot in it and drilling out the flogged retainer pin hole on the bracket and the selector shaft (usually with both in position from under the vehicle), then replace the retainer pin with a high tensile nut and bolt arrangement clamped down real tight. No more shifter slop after this mod. VERY common. As for the OP with the ‘91 Loyale, that issue would be with the clutch adjustment or a shot spigot bearing I reckon. Shame they never updated the thread. Cheers Bennie

I found this old thread helpful so I thought I'd contribute with my experience. I have a 1985 BRAT 4mt. Reverse slowly became useless. It felt like the stick shift couldn't move far enough right to access reverse. I took the trim and shift boot off and found that the stick was running into the 4wd linkage. The stick had two bends in it jogging it to the right ~ 1 inch so I cut the bends out and welded it straight in hopes that this would allow access to reverse. At the same time I put a wrench on the 14mm bolt connecting the linkage to the shifting shaft going into the trans and tried twisting it to the left (drivers side) hoping to get the 1-2° of angle needed. After reassembly I have reverse! Hope this helps keep someone else's classic mini truck on the road!

tnxs, know amayama, usualy used it only to searhc part numbers i had already, not diagrams, will have a better look now

Being an XT6 you really “need” to drop a H6 from a later model in it to keep some sort of purity to the XT6 name. Otherwise it’s like a resto modded XT4 with a 5 stud conversion… Good luck with it. I’m keen to see pics of your build Cheers Bennie

Good luck, they are fun cars.

Although I recently had similar symptoms, I finally read the trouble code and got 14. Copilot told me that my #1 cylinder injector was malfunctioning. Upon inspection, there was lots of white corrosion inside of the connector. Scratching as much of that corrosion off, not only made the engine run normal again, but it meant that I did not have to go shopping for another car. Win-Win.

An EGR red light on your dash would indicate that either your EGR valve has issues or your EGR solenoid has issues. A faulty EGR setup can cause the problems that you describe, according to the Subaru manual and CoPilot.

Thank you Todd for taking the time to do this write up!

Hi yall, been a minute. Glad to see the forum is still up. I'm about to check out an XT6 that was just listed for sale. 1988. Was driven to where it sits, but been sitting for several years. I've got a 94 ej22t wagon that'd I consider swapping the engine from. My question is, can I use the ej22t ecu with the XT6 autobox? I'd like to 5spd swap it. I've got an 89 GL wagon d/r and another d/r 5spd laying around. I'd rather source an ej series 5 speed for parts availability, durability. EJ 5spd should work with the XT6 splines correct? Anyway, I'm either buying the XT6 (dunno how the rust situation underneath is) or there's a non-running ea82 turbo wagon (originally a California car w no rust) a couple hours drive south that I have lined up, with a spare motor. XT6 is pretty darn rare here in western Canada. My buddy had a turbo XT in highschool and it was a blast. Not the best weight distribution. I figure it'd make a pretty fun cruiser or potential drift car with the weight so far upfront. I know in the past some have set the engine further back, cutting the firewall. Anyway, just spitballin another irresponsible car purchase. I'd like to get it running this summer.

So I believe I discovered thr original issue of a delay of charging was due to the battery indicator bulb being burned out, so it wasn’t signaling the alternator to start charging upon startup. I’ve replaced the bulb and so far, it is charging within a couple seconds of starting.

Clutch is now much easier to disengage than the hydraulic one in my Chevy S10! After fixing this array, my right front axle went out, had to drive homr in 4wd. Yet another project. Thank you all for you kind suggestions and wishing you the best.

www.partsouq.com Works with many manufacturers, and can lookup by VIN. I'm a dealership parts guy by trade, and I use it all the time. Sometimes has some good aftermarket interchange info, too. www.amayama.com has some, too. It's been a long time since I've used opposed forces.

Hia Havent needed much in terms of original parts of late, but now i do and the old trusty opposedforces parts fiche site is gone forever.... Other alternatives? tried to use catcar.info but looks like its not the complete set of diagrams tnxs!

Recycled 11 car batteries; received $5 each for regular car batteries at Battery X-Change in Beaverton and received $91.44 for 8 T-105 6V batteries or ~$11.43 per battery at Far West Recycling in Tualitan.

Wish I could be helpful but do you have a part number for that solenoid you’re looking for?

Awesome trip Tod! Not knowing the area at all, I can only imagine the distance and terrain covered. I love the comments from those that saw you up the top where ppl with jeeps wouldn’t consider going. Nothing unusual with that, it’s the same over here - more prissy 4wd owners than those that use them for what they’re designed to do. Cheers Bennie

So awesome. I love exploring that area! The time required to get my Outback or 4Runner into a condition to confidently do that is just not on my priority list right now. So I'm living vicariously through you!

I've had pretty poor luck with aftermarket ones leaking in less than a year. 25240KA041 genuine Subaru number, MSRP is $24.57. Every dealer has a pile of them (I have 15 at the moment). I used a Subaru switch on my Toyota Celica because I was tired of the aftermarket ones leaking and the Toyota one has an MSRP of $71

Solved. Added some 134a and now blowing cold all around.

Odd, it should not kick off from charging at all for these models. There's no ecu control if it's 2 wire so no way to tell it to power off. Do you think there's a corroded wire in the harness causing intermittent charging? If you have a spare connector, dash lightbulb, and a switch, you could make a dongle from the alternator to the battery + and manually force the alternator on to test.

So my 2013 Crosstrek XV has developed a problem I've never encountered before. When using the air conditioning, I get normal cold air out of the dash vents on the right side, but warm (not hot) air coming out of the left side. Anyone have a clue on this problem? Thanks. Keith

Hi everybody- This is my second post on this forum. last time was 2008!! Hunting a duty solenoid for my "New Car" back then. It's a 1989 Justy 4WD RS. I love it!! Best car I ever had. But it's broken right now, and I'm trying hard to save her. She's rusty and ugly, but fast and capable. Here's the problem: The computer has died and because I'm basically a Ludite at heart, I don't want to/can't afford to spend the money on that route, so i have an alternative plan, which is something like this: 1. Replace the distributor with a 1987 or 1988 dizzy with vacuum advance, because the 1989 has no advance controls. But there are a couple of questions re the proposed new dizzy. One ,the most important question, will it bolt up to my engine? It certainly looks like it will. Secondly, since the reluctor is different ( has only 3 teeth on it, compared to my 1989 with 3X3 teeth.) , I am wondering how the pickup coil signal might be different between those two? From what I've read, the pickup coils are the same part number, and fit a lot of other older subys as well. IE it's "common", Perhaps, considering my plan ( see) it would be a better/simpler reluctor for my purpose. 2. I am planning to connect the output of the dizzy to a GM HEI ignition module. Probably a 4 or 5 pin ( which allows retard by grounding the 5th pin. The module will then control the coil. Am I thinking right? The grounding 5th pin retards to base timing if needed, and the vacuum advance dizzy can exert its effect in either advanced( provided by the HEI module ) or the grounded base state? Most of my mileage is highway. I don't mind if I have to 'baby' the motor, just don't want to hurt it. Anybody got any opinions or advice or parts to help me move this along. I'd love to talk about it with you. Please help me save the old Justy? Any opinion re the Sorenson EL102 ignition module? Thanks, Old guy Henry

OK, I was able to match up the L "light" and S "Sense" wires from the 3 wire plug to the 2 wire plug. I temporarily attached female spade connectors to the wires and hooked them up to the alternator and it was charging at 13.8- 14.0 volts, right where I wanted. Having a built in voltmeter is new to me, and I noticed on some occasions it would go down to around 12.7 volts for a few seconds, then back up to upper 13's- I assume there's no issue there, as the Duralast alternator I was running temporarily was doing something similar.

I went ahead and ordered the older style 2 pin connector for my Subaru refurbished older tyle alternator. I just want to make sure I wire it in correctly. Based on this diagram- which pin on the 3 pin connector correlate to which pin on the 2 pin connector. I found this diagram of the rear of the alternator and the 2 pin connector.