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Enjoy the venture! Many of us, the few still left here after the great FB saturation, have turned the pages on the EA82 era. Lucky for you i think there’s a current active member with a wealth of EA82 experience. I sure had mine, but i’m pretty much a user and abuser a backyard mechanic. Don’t be afraid to attack that heater unit. Pretty sure i did a write up on removing the dashboard and heater or accessing it for the core swap. That will also allow duct cleaning, flapper door re-foaming, general bleach n water wipedown, let it sit and do it a second time some would say.

Did the p0420 code go off by itself or did you reset it? Keep us posted if it returns.

Ended up putting in the extreme articulation axles this weekend and got her out on the highway for a test drive! Definitely needs an alignment but feels smooth and no clicks!

@bushytails You could try running a few tanks of premium (no ethanol) through it. My gauge wasn't working and slowly over about 2 months of driving the gauge came back. My guess is the premium dissolved the varnish that was gumming up the sender float mechanism.

^ driving to the trip meter, that’s always fun!

Looks as if the right search term there is "lamp wiring harness".

Went to parts.subaru.com and clicked around. Got this part # 84930AE020 Not sure if it's the exact one, but click around. It's under the electrical section, headlamp. https://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru_2002_Legacy-25L-AT-Limited-Sedan/_52016_6025843/HEAD-LAMP/B12-840-01.html

Hi USMB members. I'm Almostborncanadian and new to the USM Board. I have a stock '94 Loyale 4WD wagon 85,000 miles. I mounting up some snow tires in 4x140 13" (165/80R13) for the approaching northern Minnesota winter. Thank you to members who were helping me look for used wheels. Seems like shipping makes used wheels pretty spendy. I also have a horrible dead turd smell emanating from my heat blower. REALLY nasty. I'll be looking for a dead mouse "up there", The car has been driven 45 mph max by two old school teachers. I think the muffler sounds constricted like it is full of rust. And one of the rubber boots covering the joint attached to the front transmission is torn wide open, Otherwise we are in pretty good condition. I look forward to learning from the group and fighting off the urge to spend big bucks on this old car. I tried to attach photos but they exceed the 2 MB limit. Wave Browser.exe

My '84's fuel gauge got increasingly erratic and now hasn't worked over 1/3rd tank for about a year... old car problems!

Friday night, I finally got a chance to tackle the shifter bushings from DRW. Thanks to @SuspiciousPizza for telling me they were an option. https://drwbushings.myshopify.com/products/subaru-2wd-5-speed-shift-linkage-bushing-set First time working on the shifter of an EA series car but I got them knocked out. Having a lift spoils you on something like this. I took a before and after video but can't link to it but it was a definite improvement. I also replaced the pitch stop rod bushings but I've not driven it to see if there was an effect.

So, Giggle Drive links.Turn signal socket Another view and another

And I can't attach a useful picture, it says "max total size 29kB."

Drove the GL to work for the first time Wednesday and have some initial impressions. 1. I need an alignment. 2.The heater is fantastic. 3. Driver side axle started knocking like my brat did back in 07 with a janky parts store axles. 4. I need a cupholder. 5. Hard left turn, my fuel gauge went to zero and then came back up. This was before I filled up with 100% gas so I assume it was sticking float. Once it came back up, it registered half-a-tank. I got a few thumbs up in it. Definitely gets more attention than my WRX does.

Hey all, Just doing a teardown and reseal of my '08 forester manual and figured I would do the clutch at the same time. When it comes to the throwout bearing and clutch I'm not sure if I have this setup right. The single retaining clip on the throwout bearing doesn't really seem like it holds it at all to the clutch fork. From videos I see online it looks like most people have two clips to hold the throwout bearing mine just has the one big one. I've attached pictures so you can see what I'm talking about. Am I missing something? IMG_2019.HEIC

Site won't let me post pics cus they files are too large but I got a blue WRX im trying mod and need some help and advice. Parts I'm trying to get are aFe Takeda intake, aFe header, aFe exhaust, Cobb tuner, Cobb top intercooler

Site won't let me post pics cus they files are too large but I got a blue WRX im trying mod and need some help and advice. Parts I'm trying to get are aFe Takeda intake, aFe header, aFe exhaust, Cobb tuner, Cobb top intercooler

Im a new Subie owner and looking for advice or help to mod it.

Older, pre Legacy Subarus were never numerous in the borderland. They petered out in the pick a parts, over a decade ago. Suspect the pacific NW might be different. While they were here, though, the metal parts were excellent.

Just the right side so far. I'll try to get a picture today. We live in the Interior, so no halibut for us.

Brat/Brumby/MY - yes, I agree it’s a common problem. L series - never seen or heard of this issue before with one of them. @scoobydube - make sure the clutch cable isn’t doing any sharp corners that will make it work hard. What do you replace your clutch cables with - second hand OEM/new aftermarket?

Other than what bushytails says above, if the sender unit was installed with Teflon tape it might not be getting a good ground through the oil pump and block. Make sure all your earthing straps are in good shape too.

Gauges that have been shorted to ground get mechanically tweaked to always read negative except at full pressure. IIRC a 50 ohm resistor to ground should make your gauge read ~75PSI. Give that a try and see if your gauge is good. If the gauge only goes up a little with 50 ohms, you can pop the needle off the pin of the gauge and put it back on to show zero instead of negative, and see if that fixes it.

Hello Sooby World! I have a 83 Subaru GL, EA-81, with an oil pressure gauge. Since I bought the car, the gauge has sat below 0, moving every once and awhile on start up but immediately coming back to rest at nada. Bought a new oil pressure sender (Not the highest quality one, but new nonetheless), and got it installed but still nothing. When I ground out the wire to the dashboard, the dash gauge rises so I suppose that proves my dash gauge works, but when I ran a fresh temporary wire from sender to the plug that goes into the dash, nothing! I was wondering what a proper test of the actual pressure sender would be. I am pretty sure the sender is a bimetal type, and I've read that cannot be tested with a multimeter. Do I need to buy a certain type of sender to work with my dash gauge? Very confused, and not much info in my FSM I got off the web. Any help would be much appreciated.