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Nice job. But I don’t recall ever having to drill anything out on those. Maybe mine we the previous generations. But I’ll pretty sure I did a Loyale series as well. Everything you described sounds dead on to me. Except the drilling. But you’ve got it in front of you and I haven’t had those in my face in over 15 years now. Enjoy the weekend.

Those 2 top bolts can be unscrewed, which I did using a small chisel to loosen them. I still had to smack down on it with a hammer to get it to come free. There are 2 pins at 9:00 and 3:00 that are flush with the part that holds the cylinder lock part that have to be drilled out. I used my cordless to drill out the pins. The pins are much harder than the cast housing resulting in the drill bit wobbling off the pin and taking out part of the casing too. Most of the pins were drilled out and I was able to get a hold of the remainder with a needle nose pliers. I probably would have been better of using my drill press but I didn't think of it at the time. So, lesson learned: the cylinder lock was not the problem. I didn't need to take it apart. But hopefully someone with a stuck or broken key can use this. My problem was a had-it ignition switch which you can remove without taking the ignition assembly off the steering column. I was able to put the thing back together and used a couple flat ended screws to replace the pins. I found a replacement unit including 2 keys on Ebay for just a bit more money than the cost of just the ignition switch so that's the way I went. I'll update when it's all back together.

Didn’t those turn out to be screws and not pins? Wish I caught you sooner. You can use a thin chisel and smack them in the correct direction and they will spin out with ease. Next time. Sorry I ditched all my 80’s stuff over a decade ago. Random stuff still pops up but I’m fairly certain I do not have an ignition switch. I have seen them and maybe even right now on eek bay. But that’s the back. Seems like you need the front key/lock section which hardly ever come up. Junk yards or a guy like me. Good luck.

I got it out. The cylinder is held in by two pins on either side of the switch assembly that have to be drilled out. Unfortunately the pins are much harder than the case so the drill bit wobbled off the pins. Anyone have an ignition switch assembly. with keys for my 1986 GL they'd like to sell?

Transmission Drain and Flush today made significant improvements on the transmission torque bind. I always pull the radiator trans coolant hose and let the trans pump out a gallon at a time after I drain and fill the transmission. After 3 gallons the flush is complete and trans serviced.

Overnight, I entered some typical known parameters I have for one of my still factory EA82T with 4PK flat rib drive accessory belt, entered them into a computer and out spat the 3033 part number used in Australia will fit your vehicle. Further checks in store, in person to like minded thinking person, two stores, independent of each other, both confirm 3033 is for 110mm deck/hub height. The vehicle runs a 105mm pump. I turned the tables and entered generic early carb EA82 Leone and out spat 3034 which we use for the 105mm pump. The chosen car runs a 110mm pump. Nothing has changed in decades and I don't care. It just lends for stories of people with EA82 supply all detail at retail level and get wrong pump, delay, delay, denial....

surely there are enough people reading forum that can supply used ignition switch with keys? A WANT ad title ? The three wire switch generic would likely only have power in, power to start, power to remain on for ignition - no accessory power which may be needed for some basic stuff - not somewhere I would want to go.

I had a dealer call me to report a customer had a touring wagon to sell as they were returning to the US. They were driving it to university and back each day with a closed thermostat. It got hot at each end of the trips, got a day or night to cool down, and start all over again. As soon as I bought it for $250, I drove it to the local shops, pick up vehicle in the back ( my push bike) a few tools and a spare thermostat - I was on my way again after it cooled enough to work on. Vehicle was great condition, not so in demand and became spares for a few of my projects. That poor engine never really suffered, and 16 years later awaits next transplant again I write this as I sit in my 1999 MY NA EJ202 Forester, questioning my realities of these projects happening !!

The ignition cylinder key lock, it'sa broke! Started the car and found that it stayed in start rather than springing back to run. The starter wouldn't disengage until I turned the key off. If I start it and turn the key back a bit it worked so I was able to get home. Took off the plastic covers and got the two bolts out and the top bracket off but it appears that the assembly won't come off until the key cylinder is removed and I can't figure out how to get the key cylinder out. I don't see anything else to remove to free the cylinder or assembly. I suspect that the steering wheel lock goes through the lower assembly piece so it won't come off until the cylinder lock is removed. Stuff on YouTube shows a specific key position and a button to push and it should slide out. Not on an '86' GL.If I do get it out but can't fix it, Is there a compatible cylinder lock or assembly that will work in this car? If I have to use a universal ignition switch that only has three connections, what wires go where? Can anyone help?

Ouch. back on topic. I had a spare 105mm in stock, yet pulled a 110mm out of my V belt baby. I no longer have the bits to pull it to 110mm. Figured will keep 105mm as spare for my never had AC AX7 XT-T as it is 4PK ribbed flat belt and 105mm. Go to try order/look online is giving me 2006 memories of being told my AC RXA will be 105mm pay ten bucks more and it turns out being V belt it is 110mm. So, deck heights are not big in specs in all these sellers that noy have stock, just have listig to sell me then find part quickly.... 2024 and there are more water pumps available than there are L Series and EA82 in the country

Look at it this way. The older you get, the older she gets 😁

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Installed V band clamps on the headers. Turned some aluminum slugs to align the various pieces. Mockup assembly, I had to cut the Y pipe back beyond those grooves. Siliconed some pieces of silicone under the C shaped pads I'd welded on the crossmember to keep the top of the exhaust from denting. Meant to do this a while ago, hoping it minimizes the noise of the exhaust banging against things. V bands welded and exhaust assembled. Exhaust is much quieter now on the throttle, seems to have eliminated the raspy exhaust leak noise. Still sounds good under load though. At about 60mph the exhaust is so quiet you can barely hear it, at least over the tire/bearing noise. At about 80mph you can definitely hear the exhaust but it's not obnoxious. I did get a slightly longer muffler I want to try out sometime too.

Loved or hated, they are what they are. My EA82 gets me to work and back very reliably each day, even when it's 110+ in the summer. When we have errands to run, I much prefer to drive the 87 DL with 246K miles and not my wife's 20 years younger Honda. In general, we love the old cars and that's all we own. Our newest vehicle is almost 20 years old. Our oldest vehicle, driven most every weekend, is 60 years old. I don't even drive my 2003 WRX that often these days. She's too young for me.

I have enough spare parts to build a couple pretty nice EA81/EA82s lol. My 89 EA82T is still going!

Just made this shock tuning video public. Best jump starts at 0:27. Stay to the end for a laugh. https://youtu.be/3hFvQLtI2kQ

With the earliest EA82 L Series having production dates starting around August 1984, the much loved EA82 in various forms, is about to hit 40 years old. Many are still going strong

It can work if you make it work, we've already given you what you need to know to do it. Make sure the final drives match. Swap the rear diff to match, that donor trans is 4.11 and outback is 4.44. Get the flex plate if you can...it's been awhile but I think all the 90's flex plates interchange just fine, but I'd just get it, there's no reason not to.

A rhetorical question, right? Our world is full of immoral mechanics and car salesmen who know it is far cheaper to hide faults than to fix them. My 87 DL came to me with the CEL bulb not doing a proper self-check at start-up. The bulb had been removed of course. I installed a new bulb and was able to fix the faults. I later found the old bulb under the passenger seat when cleaning up the interior. I bought the car from the original owner but of course he claimed to know nothing about it.

Just curious who’s out there that might know me or maybe you’re just willing to help. Sometime soon, still not sure, I’m going to make a quick trip out there to retrieve a couple old Subarus, maybe three. Most likely this will happen over a long extended weekend. Pretty sure the owner and I will be able to handle the cars. I just want to know if I have any old Subaru contacts near by in case I run into something. More than likely I’ll be completely thick headed and use one of our wagons to make the road trip. I’d rather arrive with some good tires,parts, and tool box. And in my mind I’m still a road warrior. So this post is mostly because of that. In case my aging Subaru and I need a friend while a couple thousand miles from home. Not expecting anyone do put me up for the night or anything like that. Just looking for that backup insurance. We are AAA Plus plan holders. So I’m always good for a tow to safety. Really hoping to do this fairly soon but I do need to be prepared on this end for parking. So that’s my current mission. Secret mission. I feel kind of blessed and don’t want to jinx myself. So it’ll be you’re me mystery to figure out what I’m bringing home. And special thanks to the guy who read my old posts and although he couldn’t sign in here had seen my email and contacted me. The three cars I always wanted are there. And it’s 2024. Like the impossible has happened. So wish me luck please.

I pulled the dash gauge cluster apart and found the FWD, ABS, LO and Hold bulbs missing from the circuit board. Why do people do it. Fix it Right or let people know there is a fault!

I replaced the front shock hose on the Impreza. Seems like that spring perch just rotated out of place, hopefully won't be a problem in the future. We took it and the blue Forester to our friend's little jumps. Forester seemed to jump a little better than Impreza. Impreza seemed to nose over more and was probably bottoming out the front suspension on landing when hitting the jump fairly hard. Also got video driving over parking barrier as a baseline for shock tuning. Did all that with 40psi in the Impreza's front tires though. When we got home I put softer springs on the rear of the Impreza. Only sits about 1/4" lower initially but will probably settle down a bit after some use. Replaced one of the rear CV boots that had a little rip while I was at it. Didn't get back out to test jumping for various reasons, curious to see if the softer rear springs help. The gas pedal in the Impreza seemed too far to the left so I tried to just bend the rod to the right. Was working for a while until the plastic barrel it rides in exploded. So don't do that. Got it super glued and safety wired back together and seems to work. Surprisingly open design. Gasket on the black plastic part probably seals against the sheet metal. Bought a used replacement off ebay, guess I'll have a spare. Meanwhile B's main project on the blue Forester was removing and replacing the stud for the lateral links out of his knuckle. Welded a 14mm nut to an acme nut and used my hollow hydraulic cylinder to pull it out. I'm working on replacing the two bolt flange connections in the Impreza exhaust with V band clamps. Will post pictures when that's finished.

Dave, your issue may have been n/a vs turbo. Turbo pumps came with the studs in place and would extend further as well. Hopper , yes that little period of late 78 through 80 (1600s) is sometimes a little tricky. And don’t ya know I have a similar problem now with my 79. Hadn’t noticed anything until I tried to use the A/C. My fan blades are hitting the water pump pulley. I don’t know how I didn’t see that but it happens. Curious to see if there’s any charge left in my a/c after sitting for like 30+ years.

I only know my own wagon (87 DL) and all I had to do was find a pump that made over 26 PSI since I have a SPFI engine. In those years, the carbed engines used much less pressure and the turbo's needed more so you had extra pump choices to sort through. I don't know if you could still get a carb on an EA82 in '91 but you probably get my point that not all pumps listed for a Loyal will work if you don't pay attention tp pressures. Way too many sellers don't even list the PSI or flow rate anymore.

@azdave I had a hell of a time finding the new water pump. The one I finally found on ebay came from Indonesia or something NOS supposedly for EA61 or EA71. I'll see if I can pull out the pulley a bit so it can line up better. Thanks.