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Guess what readers. The pin is 6.00mm diameter. I don't think Fuji followed anyones rules .... I have tried rare earth finger clanging magnets to no avail. I did get the heat gun from its packaging and warmed up the casing , and figuring if you grabbed the metal pin with ice cold Vise Grips with really good teeth, it must shrink it enough to come out ...And I got the little sucker. Yee..bloody..HA ! Milwaukee'd the hole in the side, all on a spare gearbox casing 3/16 hole ....US not supply metric hex drive drill bits in Oz yet My supply of grease nipples is pre metric, probably before Australian threads made a stand against Whitworth, so popped into SCA and found someone had pilfered one of two M6 nipples in a two pack. Suited me ..needed one...paid for just one Giving credit to CZNY for this approach...it is a long time since I have used grease to hydraulic things out. This little sucker is 8.00 mm long. In practice unit I marked out 10mm below surface and drilled the 3/16 and like any seasoned tunneler - came up at perfect spot, tearing the dimpled bottom out of the locating pins hole !! More later, when things are done

So the clutch, flywheel and clutch cable were replaced after 32 years of great service. Replaced with OEM parts. Exedy clutch kit (Amazon) LUK flywheel (RockAuto) Subaru OEM clutch cable (Lithia Subaru of Oregon) I've had a Weber carb on it for years and now the clutch & shifting feel like when I drove it off the dealer's lot all those years ago. A few other things to attend to but nothing that affects how it runs.

Mick's web site is still active: http://www.indysworld.com/vehicles/past/1982-wagon-mtngrizz/mountaingrizzly.html Need to level up on your google-fu. GD

Solenoid is most likely failing, it happens sometimes. That your FWD fuse works suggests the wiring is almost certainly fine, which is the suspected diagnosis anyway. Easy fix: install a rock switch to switch between FWD and "locked" 4WD which is what you're experiencing with the torque bind. Switch it there in snow or offroad, then drive in FWD nominally. It's a great fix for some situations since it's essentially free and works every time. Or replace the Duty C solenoid. Ideally you replace or address the clutches while it's apart for the job as well. In the states here it's roughly $200 - $400 in parts if you're DIY or $700 - $1,000 to pay a shop to do it, largely depending on local prices and if you replace just the solenoid or solenoid and clutches.

Thanks to all the folks who sit around and say “we have to get old moosey out here”. !!!! Yes I sure am looking forward to finally getting out to the other Subaru corner of the USA !!!! Let’s see what else this year brings. But man I sure do want to hit your big meet WCSS. And more than that I really want to finally meet up with those cool rump roast folks I’ve gotten to know over these last TWO DECADES ! Holy chit ! Hoping this is the year. Cheers ! Paul

Ideally we know what codes we're discussing but if we rely on the diagnosis presented here and it is the sensors - why not just swap the sensor instead of the entire exhaust? quick ebay search shows the connectors are different. maybe you can splice the 03 forester connector onto the 99 oxygen sensors if they're the same number of wires. This listing suggests the sensors may be the same but have different connectors: https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Bosch-OEM-Universal-4W-O2-Oxygen-Sensor-for-1998-2010-Subaru-Vehicles/380478459845?fits=Year%3A2003|Model%3AForester&epid=7005674554&hash=item5896488fc5:g:Pd4AAOSwajRZboeP

Update: I started with the hack saw but realized it was going to take forever. I took it to a welding shop and it was too hard to cut with their saw so they cut it with a torch. $5 later and I'm ready to reinstall my half drive shaft.

Got my bumpers painted with some single stage enamel yesterday and installed them today. Also found some old-school cal customs "off-road" light at the thrift store. I tinted them yellow and threw those on as well, still need to wire them up but I think they're pretty sweet for $5 lights with metal buckets and glass lenses. IMG_5989 by Luke Hoffman, on Flickr IMG_5988 by Luke Hoffman, on Flickr IMG_5986 by Luke Hoffman, on Flickr Heres some other pictures I took this last week while driving it around. Sunset by Luke Hoffman, on Flickr 4wd test by Luke Hoffman, on Flickr

Coolant should not get into the space where the stud is. Bad head gasket, mating surface not flat or a crack.

These can be tricky, I had one that got quiet when on the outside of the turn, opposite the normal noise pattern.

No. That's a 98 ECU so it should be fine. The readiness monitor malfunction is 96 only. GD

Yeah I think 6 is just saying it's a Canada or California 5MT. a spec code, not a trouble code. From Le book:

I just took my old one's off and took them to an auto parts store (O'Reilly's) to make sure I got the exact replacements. Or, you could take yours off, lay them out flat, and photograph them, for matching up with RockAuto's pictures.

Here's a quick video of it, will be getting more in the future for sure. Think I have a small exhaust leak still, need to retorque it now that the gaskets have been heat cycled. You might have to click on the video to go to flickr to view it. Revs by Luke Hoffman, on Flickr

I can't express the amount of gratitude I have to all of you for taking the time to help me get this done. First test drive was tonight, no issues noticed. Couldn't have done it without all of your help. Reverse and 4x4 light ate wired up and I'm just waiting on the console and a few small things to be finished. I had to customize the trans mounts for some reason but other than that it was a pretty smooth experience. BTW Where does the spring on the shift linkage go?

You'll have to remove the assembly from the car (relatively easy). At that point you will be able to hand rotate the top cap and see how it feels. If you feel anything ... I recommend replacement. If It feels smooth but loose attempting to squirt grease in could prolong its life. But... if you have it out why not replace it. To replace you need to disassemble (not so easy).

I got the fuel pump today, wow it's nice. All brass.

Just to update. been running with the same cap. I just bent the prongs on the cap a little and it snugged right up. O-ring was still in place and not crusty.

Board bump. Yeah , it’s a little tricky planning this trip. Hang in there and I’ll see you all soon enough. Various obstacles. But in general it’s now looking more like a quick trip out with full focus on the PNW. Not likely that I’m going to hit the jackpot with my plans to see the top of the country and Yellowstone. But someday. And yeah Jerry , I want to see the Cascades and hope to see you too either way at home or the show. So stinks popping dream balloons. In my mind I’m driving , touring Nat’l parks , bringing home a vintage wagon , etc etc etc. Paring it down to the basic requirements. Getting to WCSS and hanging out with some fellow ale drinking knuckleheads. At this writing it’s looking like I’d be flying into Sea-Tac sometime around the 4th. I’ll be sure to arrive at a time that doesn’t screw up your plans. So maybe the 2nd or 3rd or 5th. TBD Thanks again!

Yes, and in fact they have just been finished (I was able to persuade my ex co-worker to help me as I ended up with a single spare hub, so they made 21 to complete the set). These have EJ stud sizes (I hope - I'm waiting on them to be shipped from Taiwan to AUS). At this stage 4 sets are allocated locally, another 2 sets are earmarked for a member in Belgium who missed out last time, and the rest (5 sets) are available.