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This is the one I used. Going on two years, no issues. https://www.ebay.com/itm/REMAN-A-C-COMPRESSOR-COMFORT-TEMP-57453R-FITS-1994-SUBARU-LOYALE-1-8L/132232695464?epid=76242066&hash=item1ec9aecea8%3Ag%3AZsgAAOSwPWRZSDQ4&_nkw=57453&_from=R40&rt=nc There are (at least) two different back cases for this model compressor, the one you see with the rear fitting on the side of the back case, and one with the fitting on the back of the back case (the compressor itself is identical.) They sent the wrong case, but made it right with no cost to me, I just had to explain, "the one like in the picture," and attached a picture of what they sent vs what I had, with what was posted. Very nice people to deal with. And it won't work without the second belt. With only one belt, it will slip, and the lockup safety will kick the compressor out. Good luck! Dan

Buy something newer. Pass the Brat on to someone that can put in the effort. Besides the engine, that transmission is likely not long for this earth. Once the pump shaft splines strip out it's all over for that 3AT and 200k is getting to be borrowed time. EA82 and EJ22 are not swaps that will be easy. They would likely be more difficult than fixing the EA81. If you must, pull the EA81, rebuild the heads, give it a new set of rings, and put it back in. No need to do a complete rebuild if it's not knocking. GD

My preferred way is to have a spare engine. Rebuild / recondition / reseal as needed, while I limp the car along. Swap engine over a weekend. Like GD wrote, if it's not knocking, The most it probably needs would be rings. You could just reseal from the head gaskets up, and let it burn oil if you don't do lots of miles. I just would not expect any used engine you find to be ready to run without a reseal, as they are over 30 years old. It might be better than what you have though, since it sounds like your engine has had multiple overheats, it needs head gaskets.

More update: Spent the better part of today working on the GL. Did valve adjustments then the engine went back in, intake, belt, hoses and wires, etc. all hooked up, fluids, charged batt.... and.... She fired right up! I cranked her a bit, then let her sit a minute, then cranked her again and vrooom! Shut it down pretty quick because the valve covers were hemorrhaging oil, I didn’t tighten them enough to get a good seal while the motor warmed up. I snugged up the bolts, let it warm up, and will re-torque the heads and install my new valve cover gaskets in the morning. Unfortunately I have to work tomorrow, but hope I can get done in time to go through the brakes and make her roadworthy sometime next week. Thanks again to all the folks who have asked and answered questions here, it has been much easier to get this far along with all the advice that is just here for the taking.

Almost every dealer has a drawer full of these. They fit all the way up to 2009 - after that they went to the gas hood struts. MSRP is $3.25 https://parts.subaru.com/p/__/49257414/57253AA010.html GD

Optima batteries ARE crap, but your problem is the stereo. The 05 to 08 Legacy platform stereo's are known for solder joint problems. The only fix is to send it to Panasonic through a dealer and have it refurbished. The cost is somewhere around $650 and takes 3-4 weeks. There are NO aftermarket stereo options for that car due to the HVAC controls being integrated. Half the time it's the HVAC controls that go on the fritz not just the stereo. This will get worse over time and may really be a problem. I would highly recommend having it refurbished while that program still exists through Subaru parts. GD

Oh, 1/4" thick would be enough. Be safer to go 3/8" . If you need more torque than that can handle, you'll probably need to go with my custom air hammer bit to break it loose. It is difficult to get enough force holding the socket engaged with the nut when large torque is applied.

Decided to take my 85 Brat for a late evening cruise. I just installed the roll-bar lights and wanted to see how they would do at night. Stopped for a bit to enjoy the silence of an old farm road and snapped a picture.

Here's one I made from tool steel yrs ago. Make handle approx 16" OAL with 3" dia. head, 1" wide handle, 1/2" flat stock with 1.375" hole thru round head of handle. Turn round stock to 2.437 OD x 2.062 ID x .250 depth, drill 1.062 hole thru center then mill 4 'teeth' to .250 width, hair over .750" apart to fit nut. Weld this hub to handle. Weld the 2 pieces together with 'teeth' at approx 20* angle to handle. Fit over axle stub engaging nut & apply BFH to loosen nut. Subaru rear axle brg wrench.pdf

Failing your local hardware store, I'd be looking at McMaster-Carr, Grainger, etc.