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always reboot axles. Replacements have tons of issues. - the companies are just building them cheaply and you’re paying the difference with your time, break downs, return hassles. You’re helping companies make money, not helping yourself by buying cheap axles.

NKG I mean NGK . I always mix up those letters!

Yep. Over in fb land there have been posts by a reproduction business soon to offer, if not now currently - repro tailgates that likely will need all latch and catch hardware transfered into. Australia about A$800?

I'm not sure that they're aiming to run it as a business that turns a profit, rather supplying a run of replacement tailgates to make many Brumbys look good again - the tailgate is usually the first thing to be dinged up or start to rust out if not internally cleaned out from time to time. Cheers Bennie

They posted about the stainless, but they haven't started tooling. I think the sticker shock would stop it from happening. I can only assume the cost is the tooling for the profile, and once that's made they can make any of the 4 pieces fairly easily. The problem with the tailgate is the market is miniscule (how many US guys are going to spend $1k on a tailgate once you cover shipping - when complete cars are only twice that). Even down under it's barely viable. I applaud the effort, but can't see the business case.

Hmmm... I don't think we got dingers in our subi's unless there was some cheeky action going on... I also don't remember any chimes in our Gen3 ('99 model) like you describe. Are you sure you've got a key in chime for that model vehicle? Personally I don't see the issue about the key chime - I find them super annoying and with the function of remote locking it's pretty rare to lock the car manually anyway. This negates the need for an annoying key in chime. Cheers Bennie

For an EA82 engine, if you follow the factory method of installing the timing belts, you DO turn the engine one full revolution between installing the first belt and the second.

OK, I misread your earlier post, thinking that this happened after the store had completed changing all wheels. But if they found the bad stud at the beginning, then it may not have been their fault after all. But I am also very nervous of shop personnel wielding air-wrenches, set to who-knows-what torque.

No longer available. The only thing coming up anymore is Gabriel for the 4WD models. It's that or used. Welcome to 35 year old orphaned platforms. I've said it many times before - these are not viable daily drivers for the vast majority. Can't get many important maintenance parts. The market isn't there to support their manufacture. So you have to make custom or find new old stock. Or modify newer parts. GD

nice write-up on this type of bearing Notable that there are too few grease nipples on newer cars seems like in olden days even the radio had a grease nipple

Yes, Jeff packed it in a while ago. It was a well-engineered kit, except the hubs were a hybrid EJ design instead of XT6 and didn't have the hub-centric support.

I ended up buying new knuckles for both sides of my Forester (fortunately my son works at a dealer and I get them for cost + 10%) when I did the rears. I did them in my garage and just ended up buying new lateral links, bushings, bolt, hubs and backing plates instead of trying to fight with all of the rusted old stuff. Wasn't the cheapest way to do it but in parts still less than having the dealer do it at retail. I used the Harbor Freight FWD Hub Tool kit to put them in.

If it runs fine when cold, then unplug the upstream O2 sensors and see if that corrects the fueling issues when hot. Sounds like when it goes into closed loop you have an O2 sensor that is skewing your fuel trims. That would probably also explain the converter malfunctions if the O2's are bad. Probably has AFR's in that year. Just unplug them and force open loop fuel maps at all times. GD

Yeah caliper isn't going to be quite accurate enough. Last one I saw was .003" out of round and that was enough to allow 1/4" of play at the tire with a new bearing in the knuckle. The whole outer race could move because the bore was oval. I wouldn't tolerate more than .0005" out of round for fear of repeat failure. Can't get that accurate with a caliper and you can't get deep enough to check the entirety of the bore. GD

My 1991 Loyale was slow on the wiper also. So i added a ground wire from the wiper gearbox to the strut tower. FIXED it quite well.

No you don't