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When you are at home it's easy to use a bottle jack to remove the pressure on the lower through bolt on the Rear Shocks/Struts on a 2000+ Legacy Outback. However, when you are in one of of the UPAP self-serve yards that does not allow jacks in the door, how can you remove the pressure? A couple of weeks ago I pulled a set off a 2007 for another USMB member. I took the following along with my normal tool bag: 10" 4x4 2) 6 " long 2x4 Using those and a few tools from my bag (socket and prybar) I was able to unload the lower bolt enough to slide it out. Basically, just build a little tower under the lower strut to unload the pressure on the through bolt. When the bolt turns with ease, you know you've got it. Pull the nut and drive the bolt out. Then go inside and remove the two 14mm nuts. You can fit a wrench or 1/4" dirve socket in by just pushing the side panel back in a bit.

Hey guys, I got my car back. Nothing but a bent up steering column and broken plastic cover. Radio is gone and some other little items. Glad to have it back in one piece.

As long as the tubing is black, it will soak up the heat. If you build a thin box around it with a white or reflective bottom and lexan cover, you can substantially increase output, especially in cooler weather. I do recall seeing an example where a guy mounted a truck radiator in his attic with an electric fan which worked quite well. But that’s air to water, not direct solar.

if noise persists, do an oil flush. Then try refilling with a mix of 3 quart of oil and a quart of automatic transmission fluid. Run that for few hundred miles and see if the noise goes away. Mine did.

yes, aftermarket axles can, and do, cause problems. But start with the tires - rotate first to see if anything changes. if not, take it in and have tire balance checked. if that checks out ok, swap the axles left to right.. see if that changes anything.

Hi all; Picked up an 01 limited 5 speed to flip this week. The seller claimed new head gaskets, new oe timing set , new factory thermostat. heads sent off to machine shop. All done in Jan 18. I was shown the bill. Car ran good until may then started overheating. Would run apx 25 miles before heating up. Putting pressure into the radiator just like a 25 D engine... having never come across a cyl. leaking head gasket on a 2.5 1 I went under the assumption that I would find a cracked head. Inspection of the spark plugs after bringing it home showed #1 plug water stained. While pulling the motor I saw that indeed a new timing set was on the car, not OE but not junk. The "new" thermostat had 1/4" holes drilled into it ,no doubt by the seller hoping to fix his heating up problem. My thought at that point was a low rent machine shop swapping out heads instead of rebuilding what was brought to them. Seller claimed he had the head gaskets done because they were oil dripping & he wanted to get another 100,00 out of his car... When removing the first head I could see that factory gaskets were not used ... after head was off, the problem was glaringly apparent, total crap quality head gasket !!! I have never seen a gasket deteriorate like this one had! In only 5 months ! No name left on the gasket if it ever had one. I pulled the other head and it would have been leaking any day! No proof but I have no doubt they were china gaskets.... The seller paid almost $1800 for this work, $200 alone for head gaskets and bolts! Moral of the story... Factory original parts ! If you can not do the work yourself... find a real Subaru shop. You usually get what you pay for... sometimes you get even less. He sold me the car for $800... costly little fix by a non subaru shop for him... nice clean car for me.

Yeah in Japan many WRX were 4.44 ratio. The expressway speed limit is 100 km/h or basically 60 mph.