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Here's the part number I found on an invoice when I bought them at a dealer a few years ago: 723146020 Hope this helps.

Those plastic rings were still available from dealers , although you may have to ask your dealer to go thru a western distributor. Edit: Just noticed you are out west so you should be able to score , and thanks to Dave you have the part number. Enjoy!

You sure it's not the 60k EGR reminder light? That one is automatically tripped every 60k. As above ECS is meaningless on a Weber swapped Brat. GD

#3 bit in an impact driver works every time https://www.homedepot.com/p/Powerbuilt-7-5-in-Impact-Driver-Kit-648002/204505142?cm_mmc=Shopping|G|Base|D25T|25-1_HAND+TOOLS|NA|PLA|71700000034127224|58700003933021546|92700031755124841&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIrrmN28S54AIVCtRkCh2FaAYLEAQYBCABEgK7HfD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds As an alternate, if you have just a #3 phillips bit, you can hammer that sucker in there. Then try turning with a socket on the bit. Helps seat it deep, and the shock from hammering on it often unsticks the screws.

I'm in Denver bro! Where you at? I have never seen an rx in real life and i have a sh!t load of ea82 and some turbo parts, an entire engines worth. I have flapper style and hot wire maf parts that need a home. Please hit me up I can help and i don't have to work or anything better to do. F the money for a mechanic, these kids wont touch ea engines. Lol! I am willing to come to golden. I have an ej22 I can sell you for cheap if the ea82t is too gutless for you and it's almost completely obsolete anyway. I did the ej22 swap on my 86 gl two years ago.

A gas engine needs 3 things to run. Fuel, ignition, and compression. Diagnose them individually. Getting the right gasoline mixture can be a challenge, but starting fluid is volatile enough that it's MUCH more forgiving. So that means you have a compression or ignition issue. Pretty unlikely to completely loose compression on all 4 cylinders so suddenly. So you're likely down to ignition. That means more than just having spark. It has to happen at the right time. Within about 10 degrees and you should get a pop. An EA82 will run on just the LH bank, as the distributor is driven off that cam, regardless of the RH side (I had a buddy that stopped at my house because his EA82 was even more gutless than usual, turned out his RH cam had seized). So you can assume that your problem is on the LH side. Unlikely that your ignition timing has changed considerably on it's own, but completely possible that the belt has. It's not terribly hard to pull the other timing belt cover on the LH side, and compare the mark on the cam pulley to the 3 lines on the flywheel. I bet it's jumped (I've heard of timing jumping as a result of bump-starting, so if it had a dead battery....).

catz - GD is right, most everything under the hood is quite a bit different and of course, different computer running everything. premium fuel needed too. about 90% of hood scoop air goes thru the intercooler, the rest is split and directed to turbo cooling. check www.cars101.com for Subaru specs going back many years.

They are completely different. The turbo has more in common with a Forester XT or an 06/07 WRX than it has with a non-turbo Baja. Go lookup the specs. There's no need to reiterate all that. It is not a bolt on. GD

Intake gaskets on an ea82 are not paper, even if aftermarket. They are around 1/8" thick. Every time I have used aftermarket intake gaskets, they failed much sooner than expected. And of course, caused low coolant over normal temperature operation, so I then had to replace headgaskets. I've seen the gasket sealant dissolved away from the intake ports. I had put it on. Later, when dissasembled, it was gone. Intakes ports carry fuel. It dissolves anything non fuel resistant away over time. Short term, lots of things seem to work, or will work. I am talking long term.