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Did the mechanic retain the original Intake manifold? Or did he just drop an entire replacement in with a J-yard intake? Possible year model wiring difference if so? Also, This model is notorious for the fuel pump unit's "surge" compartment's metal cap and o-ring leaking, causing low fuel pressure/volume and causing hard starts, and weird running performance. Check the fuel pressure with a gauge. Watch for bleed down at shut off. Pull the pump unit from tank by lifting rear seat and pulling up the rubber mat and opening the access panel underneath.

There is no performance benefit to doing this. You're just unnecessarily polluting the air you breathe. GD

little compromise. put a catch can in in for collecting the oil goo. you can make one out of a pickle jar or a nicer once since you can weld. benefits everyone, your motor will be happier without the gases in the case, nothing is dumped on the ground, no smoke on turns. just cause you can doesnt mean you should. theres no cost in performance or maintenance to collect your toxins in the catch can, so why not make things a little cleaner on the water system.

I'll tell you exactly why, Bennie The farther you get from the mountains, the less grace and finesse is needed for offroading. A nice k5 chevy blazer (cool!) Or a diesel truck (poo) is lovely in the desert or sand dunes, or where a rwd sand rail will be loads of fun is not really a place for a lightweight subaru...clearly the superior off roader in most conditions. It's hilarious to see some fool from Texas in a lifted 2wd or diesel stuck in the snow, I've helped a few out and 4lo is extra beast with ej22 Hence, CO and WA = L body aficionados South = ford raptor or crappier, unless vintage jeep with chevy engine but no subarus

Pontoontodd thank you so much. That is the nicest and longest and most detailed response I’ve ever gotten here, and that’s saying a lot. This place is the best. Have a great day. ’97

Install just the upper smooth, and lower cogged rollers. Leave the compressed, pinned, tensioner off. Leave the lower smooth roller off. Set the belt on lined up proper, then install the tensioner while holding belt in place. Then push the lower roller up into place and bolt it in. Double check the marks before and then again after pulling the pin on the tensioner.

So it looks like you have a 3.9 final drive. This is mostly from memory so check elsewhere before acting on any of this advice. A 6MT swap out of an STI wouldn't be too bad. Make sure to get one with 1:1 rear transfer gears to work with your 3.9 final drive. The crossmember/mount is different but not a lot. You would probably need a shorter driveshaft. Front axles fit I think. I have read about some people using their five speed push type clutch but I'm not sure how that would work, you might need a 6MT STI flywheel/clutch/pressure plate/release bearing/starter. You'd want the 6MT shifter. The earlier (pre 2004) 6MTs from Japan are cheaper but weaker since they have a viscous center diff. I haven't looked into them too closely, but the late model 6MT (Crosstrek, etc) looks like it uses a different shifter than the 5MT, doesn't have a VSS, and I think they're all 4.44 final drive. If the original trans lasted a quarter million miles and you just want something similar but fresh and you're not doing anything abusive to the car, I'd stick with the 5MT. I don't know if that trans has a cable speedo or a speed sensor (VSS) but I think they are interchangeable without splitting the trans. Regardless you'd need a trans with a VSS or you'll probably piss off the ECU. So that means before 2009, depends on the model. After that they not only didn't machine the case for the VSS, they didn't machine third/fourth gear to drive it. I think in about 2000 or 2005, again depending on model, they went to the front CV axles with male splines at the trans. If you get one of those transmissions, which would likely have less wear and tear than an older trans, you'd either have to get the later model CV axles to go with it which probably use different ABS sensors or get transmission stubs from a 4EAT or STI 6MT (fairly cheap from the dealer). If you go with the stubs you'll either need to swap in smaller seals or get bearing sleeves (that's what mine did but I think they leak a little). I got lucky with the last trans I bought, it had been sitting at a junkyard for a decade. It was out of a crash test car so it only had 52 miles on it. You can sort by mileage on car-part.com. JDM should work too as far as I know, haven't looked into that for 5MT. Your easiest and safest bet would be to figure out what 5MTs have 3.9 final drive. Secondary concern would be the other ratios but check on those. You can find some info on cars101.com. jdmfsm.info has factory service manuals, those should have ratios. You can also look up individual models/years on subarupartwholesale.com. One convenient thing about that is you can pick a complete trans or just the ring and pinion gear and find other models/years with the same trans or R&P. For instance looking up the 3.90 front R&P: https://www.subarupartwholesale.com/p/Subaru_1995_Legacy-22L-MT-4WD-Brighton-Wagon/GEAR-SET-HYPOID/49247774/38100AB310.html (click on what this fits) Once you narrow it down a bit start looking on car-part.com for a local low mileage trans. Again if the original trans lasted 25 years you can probably get one from a junkyard with 100-150k miles on it for $500 or less that will last you a decade or so.

same overhere in Texas, NEVER seen any Subaru older than 1991, i've seen 1 Loyale in the wild before, but had Colorado Plates so still unsure if that counted. only 2 1970's Subaru i've ever seen with my own eyeballs and those are the ones i currently own. same for 1980's Subaru's, ever only seen 4 in my life, and i also happen to own all 4 of those. perhaps it's me that keeps picking all of them up... oops.