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That's why I could not find it on the wiring diagram.

FIXED!!! I found another post on the Outback forum from 5 years ago. Reading the post is was as if the guy was me working on my car. His final post is the same as this... one tooth off.... Both cams were on time, but the crank was 1 tooth retarded (or you could say the crank was on and both cams were one tooth advanced). Its my fault as I put a new belt on when I did the water pump 6 months ago. Why it took 5-600 miles to trigger I don't really care right now. In any case, its fixed that and WOW...runs great, no miss and I've replaced a lot of parts that I probably needed to anyway so I'm happy. Thanks to all ya'll for direction, guidance and encouragement. Bill

just with forester struts and top hats it should be ok on CV joints, would look something like that thats with 215/60R16 wheels then you can go even more if want and put sruts spacers, or harder springs like kings to get it even more. you can take camber bolts too as they might be needed to put that camber into right position. oem bolts might be not enough anymore.

Please post in the correct forum. Yes your Subaru is a ‘90 model, but it’s an L series that came from factory with the EA82 engine. Not the EJ series engine that this forum is about. Cheers Bennie

agree w/above - OEM brake parts are good quality and original rotors should be kept if over the minimum thickness stamped on them. Probably last 3 pad changes, maybe 2 under poor conditions (gravel dust, rust,???) OEM pads are quality ceramic compound. but Centric PosiQuiet Ceramic like I run, or other name braand ceramic pad will be a little cheaper and just as good. some folks like Wagner.... consider asking for a shop recommendation in a new thread - someone may be able to steer you to a subaru-friendly independent mechanic near your city for a second estimate.

Subaru's do not have an Ammeter or "amp gauge" They have a voltage gauge. If it is dropping to zero it's probably faulty. But if the "charge" light is coming on that may be a sign the Alternator is failing.

like i said, unless there is a specific reason to such as warped or out of spec, there is no need to change them. Rotors don't typically just fail for no reason. On a 6 yr old car, I would not expect them to be out of spec.. warped, possibly, but you would have symptoms of that if they were. if the car were 16 years old, then yeah, i would be more inclined to do the rotors "for safety" (and I have - I drive a 2002 Forester that I did new rotors, pads, drums (rears) and shoes on)

Ouch!!! Glad I work on ours myself. For an idea of prices go to a subarupartsforyou.com or rockauto.com or partsgeek.com.

Thanks for the responses! At least I have some where to start. I’ll be sure to post what I find...once it stops snowing. Gotta love fall in Montana! At least the hunting is good.

that is insanely high - agree that i would never go to that shop again, for anything. and lets be honest here - unless there is a problem with the rotors (warped) or they are out of spec for turning, there is no real reason to change the rotors, either. I see a most shops around here advertising brake jobs at $129/axle all the time. I don't use them, but just as a reference.. assuming that includes pads, incidentals* & labor.. *incidentals would include lubing the slides, brake fluid, etc... My guess is they get people in with the price, then tell them that they need all new hardware (calipers, rotors, etc) too, to get more money out of marked up parts & labor charges.

That is an INSANE price for simple pad/rotor swap. Pads should be no more than $60 per axle.......so $120 total. Rotors....let's say $75 a piece.....that's $300 for all 4.....a very high estimate. So that's $420 parts, and Labor for a brake pad swap should be no more than $100 per axle (again, a very high estimate) That's $620 at high estimate prices. Now, if they want to replace Calipers too.......that ups the price substantially........but that should not be needed on a 6 year old car. That shop is either charging INSANE markup on parts, or charging way too much labor......either way, I would NEVER go to that shop again.....EVER

Regarding Forester rear struts: If shocks in those struts are still good, I mean the dampening is OK, and the only issue is that self leveling part is bad and it sags butt the cheapest solution is to change to longer and stiffer springs keeping old shocks in the rear. That's the common fix in Poland instead of replacing self-leveling shocks that cost fortune. Expect 5cm lift with Forester shocks struts which may stress your CV joints and you may get zero or even slightly negative camber. The simplest, cost effective solution is to put a spacer between your current struts and body. You can even find ones that offset your suspension so that you keep the camber correct.

Haven't posted for a while but the car is pretty much ready. Build the scoop to fit my Weber 36DCD carburetor. Exhaust is finished and done. pic of my home made headers: Changed trans and diff oil 75w90 Rear diff looked quite good. Ive been battling with bleeding the brakes for a few weeks no, no success Bought master cylinder repair kit form rockauto but still nothing, the pedal wont build up pressure. Got the seatbelts in Car is pretty much done, it runs and sounds great, only if id get the brakes bled i would drive the sh#t out of it.

All I'll say is I made 10-20k Jeep's look retarded with my 81gl with welded rear and this

Thank you so much for the warm welcome! Also thank you for the information, i didn't know that L series stuff won't fit my hatch. Hatchback currently has ea81 in it and ea71 as a spare in trunk (with twin carburetors). I haven't had time to pick up 4wd transmission for ea81 from the previous owner (i spoke to him about month ago to see how he was doing, he is 80 year old man who was sad he could not longer drive a car due health issues). But it will be big trouble finding rear end for it, i live in Estonia which is a really small country in Europe and here are almost NO old Subarus. I checked the vehicle registry and there were only 2 Leones and 1 Brat registered. Hatch has a mint interior it looks like brand new, i will try to get some pictures next time im visiting my country side house. I chose to build this L series wagon because doing projects the right way is time consuming and expensive (my main project is 86 Volvo 740). I had pretty much lost all my motivation to work on cars (hadn't done anything to my Volvo over a year) so i wanted to butcher this wagon together just to get my motivation back and work on it with no pressure. Since mice had eaten the wiring and ive always wanted to build rally style dash, i finally did it: Since the car came with no seat belts, i want to put in a harness so i built harness bar for it: Floor was really rusty so it was a challenge, i welded in some new sheet metal for the floor and added 6mm thick metal plates for the bar to mount. Transmission mounts were totally shot, one was broken up and transmission was super loose. I got these rubber mounts form hardware store and managed to make new mounts with exact same dimensions. Don't mind the purple paint, it was only paint i had in garage to prevent metal from rusting Today i got drum brake cylinders from rockauto. My order comes from 5 different warehouses so im expecting 4 more packages and brakes are done.

Car has been working amazingly well and ive been driving around like mad man. Until recently i noticed a weird stance on rear wheels. Just now discovered that rear end has broken loose.