Leaderboard

To make this a bit more interesting have a pic of my Brat..

sorry i havent updated this. ive been recovering and working. car did amazing and is amazing! its everything i hoped for and more. engine performed flawlessly and car did great in some pretty horrid weather. idaho had ground level clouds that produced ice while wyoming had 70+ mph winds blowing drifts onto a highway that has an 80mph speed limit. 10 cars had gone off the road, 2 jack knifed semis, 1 semi that caught fire and a trailer that had flipped and disintegrated on impact. google maps has it as an 18.5 hour trip driving straight through and i was able to do it in 22 by myself. my first plan of action after i take on the dmv is to get a 2nd set of rims with some studded snows

The 99 Forester 2.5 call for a 16 PSI cap. The 99 Legacy 2.2 calls for a 13 PSI cap. The cooling system should be under pressure to raise the boiling point of the coolant.

When applying the brakes, the brake light switch sends voltage to the Transmission Control Module and it should release the lockup solenoid for the torque converter. Personally, I would drop the pan on the tranny. In side on the bottom of the pan is a doughnut shaped magnet. It can be removed and cleaned with paper towels. It is normal for it to have a light coating of metal powder on it from the wearing of clutches and bands. Its purpose is to keep that stuff from getting into the many bearings in the tranny. But if the crud is thick, then the clutches etc. have a lot of ware on them. I don't know automatics good enough to guess how much longer it has to live. But, I can say that I have gotten a used tranny from a yard with 100k miles on it and the crud was about a sixteenth of an inch, and the tranny went another 100k in our mail car. When you do the control arm bushings keep in mind that the vehicles weight must be on the wheels when you tighten the nuts for the front and rear bushings. Mount everything and then drive the front wheels onto ramps and then tighten them. If the vehicle is jacked up and the control arm is hanging down and you tighten the mounting bolt and nuts, the rubber in the bushings may not last a year. I learned that the hard way. When you have some time, read this page. I knew about two of their products that work wonders, but the Sperm Whale oil was a surprise. https://www.lubegard.com/technology/

some folks like the Mevotech 'loaded' replacement arms - some of those folks might put an OEM ball joint on it in place of the M'tech one. KYB is the go-to on struts. I strongly suggest new strut mounts as you bearings are likely dry and crunchy at 19 years old. you might check youtube for videos. Some folks borrow McPherson strut spring compressors from the parts store and DIY the whole process. Others take their assemblies and new parts to a shop and pay them to swap over. 2 main 'gotchas'; the 'spacer'/conical washer at the top must present its narrow side UP. And, the springs and top spring perch are oriented 'out' , towards the fender so keep an eye on that or mark them before disassembly.

Update--TCM replaced, TB cleaned, replaced air filter, and oil leak was not a leak, turns out it was overfilled, drained some oil into a bucket and will see if it still leaks tomorrow. Car is driving, idles better and no dips in RPMS when I from Park/Reverse to drive. Looking into extended warranties and I was able to found one that I am highly considering.

You guys get smog still? That’s crazy! I remember the smog induced ozone over Melbourne in the 90’s - we would see the brown dome over the city as we approached from our rural setting. We would always come home with headaches after a visit to the big smoke. Now that’s a very rare event, if it happens at all these days. Thats so good with the experience you’ve had with GD and his crew. From an outside perspective and not ever having done business with GD (never will due to locations), it was awesome to read about the communication from GD’s workshop and yourself through what you shared with us on here. Very positive!! Have a safe drive, lay off the smokes (it’s bushfire season!) and enjoy the ride! Cheers Bennie

We have been working on this for a bit now, and have several units in the field along with a growing library of base maps for running the OBD-I harness EJ engines (turbo and non) on a plug-and-play LINK ECU. With minor changes to a few pins, and running a vacuum line to the ECU you can be up and running with no codes and modern full programmable stand-alone features in a matter of minutes. LINK developed this board for the V1-2 WRX/STI over in Europe, Australia, and Japan. It happens to share the same basic pinout as the USDM EJ22 and EJ22T cars (Legacy 90-94, and Legacy Sport 91-94). These harnesses are popular for swaps as they are readily available and cheap from junk cars. They support full motorsports features such as: G4+ PlugIn Key Features Up to 6D fuel and ignition mapping Precision closed loop cam control (four cam, independent control) Sequential fuel delivery Digital triggering, all OEM patterns OEM idle hardware supported 5D boost control with three switchable tables Motorsport features - antilag, launch, flat shift Continuous barometric correction (on board) CAN port QuickTune - automated fuel tuning Individual cylinder correction USB tuning cable included Stats recording into on-board memory Gear compensations for spark, boost and fuel Real time selectable dual fuel, ignition and boost maps Sync and crank sensors can be a combination of Hall effect, variable reluctance or optical Boost control referenced to gear, speed or throttle position Up to 32Mbit internal logging memory Staged injection Knock with "windowing" This is the ECU we use for this application: http://dealers.linkecu.com/WRX2Plus Our kits also include a 3-bar map sensor, and the expansion loom for adding inputs such as wideband O2 (highly recommended), fuel pressure, EGT, or any other input you would like to map to an ECU function, alarm output, etc. Included in our package is our dyno derived base map library for the EJ, as well as technical support, and 1 hour of remote tuning assistance to get you up and running and driveable to your local dyno shop or on the street tuning either professionally or personally. The tuning software is completely free and there are no licensing or other fees associated with the software. EVER! You can freely download the latest version from the LINK website anytime even if you don't own a LINK ECU. The software is very user friendly and has amazing documentation - right clicking on just about anything brings up a help window. Tired of those expensive MAF sensors? Throw it away forever. LINK can run speed density, or use any MAF from thousands of other newer vehicles - frequency MAF from an LS? No problem. Throttle body not large enough? Bad TPS? No problem - adapt a newer model. You can change any sensor to anything you like from any make and model supported in the software. Just pull from your choice of car in the junk yard and change a few ECU settings. NO LIMITATIONS. Tired of the limitations of the OBD-I factory ECU? The LINK ECU package with included MAP sensor, XS Loom, basemaps, and remote tuning assistance are $1499 Here's a Dyno sheet from our shop's 1991 Legacy Sport Sedan. This car is 100% stock with only 3" turbo-back exhaust. Factory rated at 165 crank HP on 8 psi. This is @ 16 psi with a LINK ECU, and redline bumped up to 7200: 176.11 AWHP, and 196.17 AWTQ. Corrected for drivetrain losses that's about 210 crank HP from the stock EJ22T with only exhaust mods. Please feel free to contact me either here, or through facebook or email for any questions, etc. GD

The VP of LINK for North and South America (Jason Oefelein) personally tunes on my DynoJet and helps build our base maps, provides tech support, etc. He is local to us and formerly operated Portland Speed Industries - whom we bought our Dyno from when they closed their doors last year - he liked the product so much he became their VP. He has about 20 years tuning experience and has been using LINK since the early days. Look for a lot more applications such as a likely adapter harness for the 95 to 99 car harnesses, and I'll be bringing LINK to the Domestic vintage GM TBI and TPI applications such as third gen F body, TBI cars/trucks, and C4 Corvettes, etc. LINK has an amazing following and a superb product but has, till now, no presence in these markets and very little North American presence in the Subaru market. Tuning with a LINK is like a dream come true. Once you try it you will never want to go back to anything else. GD