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Did you do fat the crank one full revolution before installing the second timing belt?

CTS Test - put the sensor in a pan with some water, on a stove top. Use a thermometer and an ohm meter. It took a while, looking through my FSMs and finding my old notes - Water temp sensor ohms 14F 7000 - 11500 68F 2000-3000 122F 700-1000 Above are from the FSM. Below are actual measurements. Done at 2 different times, compiled here. The 1990 unit was in a good running engine. The new dealer unit was bought locally, and I made the measurements before installing it to get the extra reference points. measured ohms temp 1990 used new dealer unit 77F 2390 122F 1154 1098 185F 400 190F 454 One of the main things to watch for is that the readings are steady, or drifting as the temperature changes. If the reading is jumping up and down, that's a bad sensor. If it doesn't change smoothly. If it is WAY off it's not good. Notice the readings for the 122 degrees. they are all a bit different. But they work. That amount of off spec isn't going to cause noticeable problems. While not technically in spec, it's close enough.

I just re read the line about "it runs fine once warm." This points really hard at the CTS. The off engine test for the CTS is pretty simple. 2 used 30 year old CTS is not a great way to rule them out as a problem.

if you havent done a full tune up i would try that plugs wires cap rotor airfilter the plugwires cause all kinds of havok when they fail causes misfires and other issues depending on were.the spark is bleading off to even alittle loss in power to the plugs makes it hard to start the taking for ever to warm up probably due to the intake being cold the fuel can fall out of suspention as it moves though the intake manifold making it even harder to start and stay running till the coolant gets up to tempeture the throtle body can actualy freeze up so basicly untill that coolant is hot its not gona be happy but it shouldent die just idleing also the intake before the air filter has a tiny opening and dosent flow well at high rpms so check to make sure its open and theres not a piece of something partialy blocking it if you cant find the issue i found a msd ignition system make a great band aid for all issues ignition related

After checking / cleaning the engine grounds, battery terminals, etc. I usually use the battery - or engine ground point. Unless I started getting really odd results, then I might check the ground pins on the ECU also. My 1990 FSM is where I found the off engine CTS test.

check your ground wires from the body to the battery to the motor to the dash to everywere theres alot of those grounds for a reason

I don't think a grounding problem would go away when the car warms up. With so many codes it seems impossible to know what's happening. I would clear all codes and start over. if you keep getting all codes I would suspect the ECU/ECU connections. Otherwise see which codes persist and go from there.

5 v from the ecu would only be there with key in run.

I’m sure this has already been handled but when I junked the 2.5 in my outback it was locked up tight and a grinder wheel made short work of the block and then it’s pretty easy to remove TC

Had to pull the engine from the car last week to take care of some bad oil leaks and found water in the oil system which prompted a full teardown to the short block. Best I could tell the water was a result of: 1) Condensation from running cold, 2) Trash left in the engine from last time I had it apart in passages I couldn't clean. It's all back together now and on the road and looks good so far. I also got a larger main jet for my carburetor (from a 103 to 112) and it runs much better, virtually eliminating the mid range flat spot. We'll see how it holds up going forward. Also added some Dynamat to the trunk area/wheel wells and it helps a little. The cabin will be loud as long as most of the interior is missing.

The 99 Forester 2.5 call for a 16 PSI cap. The 99 Legacy 2.2 calls for a 13 PSI cap. The cooling system should be under pressure to raise the boiling point of the coolant.

some folks like the Mevotech 'loaded' replacement arms - some of those folks might put an OEM ball joint on it in place of the M'tech one. KYB is the go-to on struts. I strongly suggest new strut mounts as you bearings are likely dry and crunchy at 19 years old. you might check youtube for videos. Some folks borrow McPherson strut spring compressors from the parts store and DIY the whole process. Others take their assemblies and new parts to a shop and pay them to swap over. 2 main 'gotchas'; the 'spacer'/conical washer at the top must present its narrow side UP. And, the springs and top spring perch are oriented 'out' , towards the fender so keep an eye on that or mark them before disassembly.

Limitation noted. At the moment I'm not looking for high-performance, low-latency data, just a step beyond what I can get from a pocket error code reader e.g. temperature sensor readings. So I expect to get what I pay for when I get a $3 dongle (with free shipping!). As for Apple and Jobs, I 100% concur. He had two heads - one the visionary everyone takes him to have been, the other planted squarely up his a$$. "Control freak" barely begins to describe him and his legacy in their closed, fascistic "ecosystem". And they have a long history of doing unimaginably stupid things under the delusion that they were actually infinitely smarter because they were a product of Apple's obvious genius. My favourite simple but glaring example is that for a while they put the keyboard bumps on the D and K keys (instead of the F and J, which have only been the standard for typists since Jesus first picked his nose). "Sure, it's nonstandard, but it'll become the new standard because we're Apple and we're smarter than everyone who has ever typed or will ever do so in the future." And don't get me started on the abandonment of any notion of ergonomics they established with the iPod Touch and carried into their tracking devices. They're so far behind a 60s-vintage Western Electric Model 500 Touch Tone that it's just pathetic. Bollocks to them. Rant off.

The cheap bluetooth one's, if they work at all, have too much lag for decent real time data analysis. Last I checked you had to spend about $100 to get a decent dongle. The wifi one's may be better - I haven't tried because well..... f*ck Steve Jobs and the horse he rode in on. Never liked Apple products and I can trace the roots back to the 80's on that account. I'll never own any Apple product nor condone them in my household. GD

The code P0851 means the Engine Control Module does not see a good ground from the inhibitor switch (neutral safety switch) mounted on the transmission. It should see a ground in Park and Neutral and an open in any other position. To verify this you can test it with an ohm meter. Unplug the "12" pin connector located on top of the bellhousing. First check pin 12 on the socket from the harness for a good ground. Then hook the ohm meter probes to pins 11 and 12. Move the shifter while watching the meter. It should read 0 or 1 ohm. If it reads higher or fluctuates replace the switch. There is an adjustment procedure when mounting the switch. In the picture you are looking at the face of the plug on the wire going to the switch. The other code may be because the engine is not cranking properly. Find out later once it is starting like it should.