Leaderboard

also verify that the clutch pedal is activating the switch properly. my old GL developed a problem because the switch had vibrated loose over the years.. readjusted & tightened and the problem went away

Transfer case can’t be changed. Subaru did things a bit differently in that department. Engine, gearbox and diff will all interchange and bolt in. Dropping the low range won’t have a huge impact on the use of the vehicle. Clutch will swap in no worries. Rear suspension parts will swap over. There will be a difference in the rear struts. Engine wiring is different, use the intake manifold from the vehicle it came from to run either engine (clear as mud?). I know you got your answers, thought I’d answer in case anyone else is searching for the same. I don’t think I’ve read that thread about the Gen1 and Gen2 compatibility. Cheers Bennie

Take the three screws out and see if the spring is ok. It is on the inside of the cap. Maybe the spring is distorted and got on the wrong side of the lever. While the cap is off, make sure the lever easily closes the choke plate. When it is cold you turn the cap until the choke closes. If it has notches on it go one more notch and tighten the screws. Other models had water pipes on that cap.

sirtokesalot, Before you get too excited at the indicated speed vs actual speed, borrow a friend's Garmin GPS, throw it on the dash and take a short trip over various speeds to see how the speedometer reads when compared to the GPS indicated speed. My 2017 OBW runs 245/50/19's stock in summer and 215/60/17's on its winter tires (winter wheels and tires held over from my previous 2012 OBW). At 83 kmph (50 mph) speedometer indication, the Garmin GPS reads 80 kmph (52 mph). Similarly at 100 kmph (60 mph) the difference isn't much more. Try my suggestion and see if the difference is enough to warrant changing anything around. Myself, I just am aware that with my winter tires on I'm actually going 3 or 4 kmph slower that what the speedometer reads, so I up my speed accordingly so I don't cause a road rager behind me.

Now for the not fun part. Working under the dash can be nasty. In the images I posted, you will see one end of the Lockup Solenoid coil is grounded and the other end goes out on a Lavender colored wire to Socket T4 Pin 13. Plug B11 plugs into T4 and on Pin 13 the wire color changes to Red-yellow stripe then goes through the firewall to Plug B54 Pin 16 that connects to the TCU. T4 and B11 are located on top of the bellhousing. It is a 20 pin connector. The Harness diagram shows the TCU is located around the steering columb. There are 2 plugs in it, B54 and B55. I have seen older units that had TCU right on the label. You will tap into the Red-yellow stripe wire under the dash or under the hood with one of the bulb wires and the other wire on the bulb will go to ground. The bulb will light when when the TCU turns on the Lockup Solenoid and will go out when it is released. If the bulb goes out when you brake but it is still in lockup then the problem is in the tranny. If the bulb stays on when you brake then It is the TCU or maybe a sensor input. I know that most of the valves in the tranny have springs to return the valve piston when the solenoid releases. If the spring is weak or broken or there is sludg build up the piston will not move properly. One of the images is the valve and spring. The Lockup Solenoid valve routes pressure between two ports going to the torque converter - Lock-up apply pressure and Lock-up release pressure port. So, if the problem ends up being in the tranny, it could be the solenoid, valve, valve spring, a leak in the release port or the torque converter it's self. We'll see what the light says. You can save or print any or all of this info. I cropped and resized the images to make the file size smaller.

Ah, that indicates the thermally sensitive spring is broken, stuck, or way out of adjustment.