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i think people use urethane stuff to form their own rear diff bushings. should be able to search here and find threads on it. i know they've done it for the #11 bushing, i imagine the others can be done too.

Does anyone know where to buy #2 and 11? And if they aren't available, what's an alternative.

Are the diagnostics plugs under the dash still connected? (If this model still has them) All the best with finding the fix. I hope it’s a simple one. Cheers Bennie

That's very good to know! Again, thanks!

I used Loctite 518 flange sealant on mine but you can use Fuji Bond, Toyota Bond, etc just don't use rtv. There is no gasket between the case halves. There is a special oval shaped o-ring in there though.

You're looking for parts 11 and 12 in that diagram. I've used both replacement polyurethane bushings and flowable urethane to fill the voids of bushings. One cost more, one is way more messy. It's a toss up, but put a gun to my head and I'd go with the aftermarket poly bushings in these locations. Polyurethane isn't a good material choice for bushings that rotate, such as control arms or anti-roll bar mounting bushings, but for static bushings that simply mount the differential, these are perfect.

Yeah the symptoms are all over the map. Suggests multiple failure mechanisms.

Those uninsulated wire connections give me heartburn...

EJ swap it, slip the stock drivetrain under a bench in “storage mode”. EJ swap can be reversible if you do it properly. Cheers Bennie

paging @GeneralDisorder