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Original radiators are good for about 8 years. We are seeing catastrophic failures on 2010/11 models now. The new blue OAT coolant seems to be eating cooling system plastics just the same as Dexcool did 20 years ago on GM's. Don't use any stop leak on your WRX. It won't do anything useful. Go with full welded aluminum. The CSF offerings are quite nice. Koyo is nice also but their warranty is poor. Mishimoto is garbage. GD

I should apologize. It wasn’t the ADF guys it was Alied Armaments I was referring to. Yeah , Scott has been alongside the USMB so long it’s pretty much a given we older folks are going to point to him first.

For checking the links, you are better off using a spare light bulb, like a brake light bulb. One end to the battery - or frame, the other to each end of each link, in turn. A volt meter is good, and all, but a bad link with a high resistance connection can show as good with no load. The lamp test is the load. Even better, check volts while the lamp is lit. You cannot test amps unless you put the meter in series with whatever load you are testing, and many loads in cars are way too high for typical amp meters, so you really want to know what you are doing before you do that, or you will need a new meter, or worse.

Adding relays like that takes the load off the factory system. The existing relays will only be triggering the new relays, so no need to upgrade them. The diagram looks largely correct. Subarus typically use a switched ground system (I'm not sure about EA81s, but everything newer certainly does). Meaning the existing wires listed there will be grounded, not powered. Which means you'll need to reverse the polarity of the relay (pin 86 will need a power source, instead of ground). I'm doing essentially the same thing with my 4Runner right now (as part of a larger project). Mounting underhood relays, running shorter runs of larger gauge power wires to the relays. The voltage drop through ~35 year old factory connectors and relays is pretty severe under load.