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Especially since you have a spare vehicle for parts etc. learn how to read the codes from the ECU - it might just TELL you what it needs. Also check your cam belts are intact and properly aligned. One cam should be at 12 o’clock and the other at 6 o’clock when the crank is at either of these positions. @Step-a-toe - here’s the link, but all photofucket photos are no longer available https://ausubaru.com.au/viewtopic.php?f=68&t=24721 Cheers Bennie

I would cross-reference the Subaru part numbers on parts.subaru.com GD

So, I took advantage of a discount coupon at RockAuto and bought all the sensors I could, at once ...

So, the problems with the Fuel Pump and the non-functional low fuel warning light, were solved by changing the old one with the new fuel pump assembly; thanks to God. In another Subject; as I wrote some posts ago, the plastic from the wiring terminals in this Sephia, are crumbling away, making connection problems in some sensors; the most recent fail was the terminal for the Knock Sensor, which crumbled away, letting the wiring to hang down disconnected... So, part of the Box pictured some posts above, was a set of brand new Sensors, which came along the new fuel pump assembly, from RockAuto, including a new Knock Sensor:

Well last winter after rebuilding the Hitachi twice, I got rid of the 5000RPM idle issue but then I ended up with really poor idle. So I finally went with the Weber and it runs like a dream, I changed the general conversion a little to make sure it isn't permanent. I have some small idle issues, but I am contributing those to the fact that my ignition system is kinda jurry rigged at the moment. As soon as I can afford the proper distributor I'm hopeful those will go away as well.

The video looks good

I am glad that you found the problem and that you and your family are ok!

I'll make this easy. Don't flush it. It's not necessary. If the radiator is original, just go ahead and throw that right in the trash. Order a radiator (Koyo), and new hoses from the dealer. If you really want to drain it all, pull the thermostat housing off the water pump. And pull the plugs off the bottom of the engine block. If the car hasnt had a timing belt in 10 years or 105k then it needs to be done along with the water pump. At which point all the coolant gets drained again. Subaru's aren't hard on coolant. It pretty much lasts forever or till the water pump shitz the bed. Manual..... what manual are you using? Let me set you straight on something - people that do this for a living (mechanic's, technician's, etc) don't consult manuals for changing coolant. We just don't. And generally you drain what's in the radiator and put in new. Whatever that amount is.... not all that important really since all the fluids we use are in bulk. It is what it is. And unless the coolant is REALLY nasty (like rusted shiz), changing 75% of it is perfectly acceptable to renew the additive package (zinc and stuff). Don't worry about the coolant. Worry about the radiator and the timing belt. Those are what's going to strand you. GD

Hello and thanks for your response. I came here to seek some help, so I was expecting that, I didn’t know I needed proper formatting for this but now I do. Also I don’t know much about cars, what I’ve learned is through friends and YouTube, the very basics. I’m learning. I bought this used car and noticed that the reservoir was dirty and that the coolant was on the low end. I though that perhaps doing a flush would be a good idea as I didn’t know how well the owner took care of this car. Besides the radiator it appears that the engine block also holds coolant but this is just a guess from watching 1 tutorial, all other tutorials I watched did now show me to drain the engine block. Please correct me if I’m wrong and thanks again for taking the time to reply. edit: my problem is with the manual, why is it showing me how to drain only 1 gallon of the coolant but tells me to buy 2 gallons before draining it the way it is shown on the manual. Shouldn’t the manual have shown how to drain all 2 gallons it it’s making me buy and use 2 gallons of coolant?

You will have to source an EA82 carb distributor. The fuel injection distributor is not capable of running a coil. It is only a cap and rotor with a crank angle sensor in it - there is no provision for triggering the coil or adjusting timing. It would have been much easier and better overall to just fix the fuel injection. The old hillbilly carb swap trick is not the hot ticket here. Leave that for Billy Bob and his cousin Skillet. I suggest you put it back to stock and do the proper troubleshooting to effect repairs on the FI. EA82's did not use "points" distributors - In fact neither did the EA81. You have to go back to the EA71 of the 1970's to find an actual "points and condenser" unit. Same with the US manufacturers - which by the late 70's had gone away from points and to electronic solid state ignition. Exactly how old are the Jeeps you are working on? You might want to step back from the Fuel Injection or get yourself some education on the subject. GD

The dress rings do add a different depth in appearance to our white steelies but scratch the finish so really best used to tidy up scabby rims instantly , paintless

I checked the Fuel Pump Assembly without noticing anything Wrong at a glance. But then, after disassembly it... I looked Carefully and Found the Culprit of the Burnt wiring Smell

Step-a-toe, I did lube first, I just forgot the resistance of new O-rings as they are actually compressed in the first usage even with the lube. I simply had to push down harder with a rag over it and with a slight rotation, back and forth, and she made contact. Thanks for asking though.

Here's the extended Pedal, already installed and tested: The brake pedal was placed from factory, almost at the height of the accelerator pedal's top; now that it has been lengthened, the brake pedal has lowered and is located at the height of the center of the accelerator pedal. The extension not only lowered it, but also it came out a little, resulting in a brake pedal slightly higher and much better located. The results of this small modification, are so Awesome, that I really wonder why the heck I didn't it Before, because I noticed this issue since I obtained the car, in december 2009

This is how the extended pedal looks, after a layer of anti rust paint: and after the second layer: Ready to be placed on the "KiaStein"

I drove many, many different cars, vans, trucks, SUV's, etc, since long years ago; and ALL of them had a brake pedal that is placed in a way, that you can easily (and Safely) reach it with the Foot, not with the Toes; only the second gen Sephia / first gen Spectra (same car, almost) on Automatic versions, suffer from this short pedal issue; which really affects the braking feeling / behaviour and safety on these models. So I decided to cut the Kia's brake Pedal bar, close to the pedal itself; and cut a little more than an inch from an old Toyota's brake pedal bar, which I found at a friend's pile of old parts... then I carefully welded the Toyota's metal bar piece, to the Kia's metal bar; as you can see on the followin' Photo: The old 'yota's metal bar is much thicker than the Kia's one.

the problem with those Hitachi Carbs is that they are made to work with the emission crap on it, as much as im an original freak at keeping a vehicle as original as possible, unfortunately after many, many months of tinkering with my Hitachi, i never could get it to work smoothly for more than 40minutes. i would go to walmart, and have to tune it again before leaving, i would leave work and time to tune it again, i would bottom out on the idle mixture at times just to get it to somewhat run right. all the calibrations shifted horribly on mine from day to day. the hardest thing about the whole conversion will be removing all the emission stuff, but after hours of doing the conversion on mine, first crank, and it started right up, with a growling sound too like the old carb was stealing so much power from it. $300 dollars is alittle harsh but its actually worth it at the end, i was a non believer at first, but i don't regret one bit of all the work i did to it.

You should have +12v to the positive side of the coil with the ignition on. If you don't find out why. Coil primary winding resistance should be approx. 1 Ohm. Coil secondary winding resistance should be approx. 10k to 15k Ohms. It either winding is out of spec - replace the coil. When you crank the engine you should get a 12v pulse from the negative side of the coil. Use a test light. If you don't get a pulse and the coil is good and properly powered then the distributor has an issue - bad module or wireing. GD