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On the plus side I dont have to deal with car pimps in person as it is all done on line now

05-09s kind of suck relative to other years. They’re struts, power steering are garbage compared to 00-04s. Any 05-09 I get I can assume those trash items will need replaced, and it’s not like they’re any better in some way that makes it a trade off. 00-04 (or baja) struts are commonly installed as upgrades (direct swap) over 05-09s struts. and plan on $300 OEM steering pump or replacing aftermarket a few times to get a good new one. Wheel bearings are also more likely to fail. Those aren’t big deals and easily remedied in a way but they have no advantage to 00-04s....except they are newer. If it were for my family/friends I’d get a nice low mileage 00-04 southern/western rust free 03-04 Outback all day long over a lower grade 05-09. Fly or have it shipped - do whatever you need. I shipped a Forester like 400 miles this summer for like $350. Dirt cheap and expands my range for a better deal in the end. Or spring for a 2017+. In between is no mans land. Limited advantages for a little lower maintenance and reliability.

Nipper: you are back! How nice to see your post. Over the many years that I've been on this forum, I have come to recognize the names of those posters who had something useful and relevant to say. And you are definately one of those people! So welcome back! COVID here in Western Canada hasn't been too severe, and by and large the population support our politicians and health care professionals. But I chose this weird time of self-isolating at home to have a heart-attack and open-heart surgery. Still in recovery in the hospital. We recently bought a new 2017 Forester 2.5 CVT, since my wife wasn't as enamoured with our old 2002 EJ2.5 5MT, which we also bought new (and which we still have). 2017 Forester: runs great, nice car. Lots of plastic, but these days plastic can be pretty strong. 'Eye-sight' works great, rear-camera, which I thought would be a gimmick, is indispensable. CANbus is a nuisance for me, as I like to delve into the 12V wiring system to make minor mods (eg windows won't open in ACC mode - very annoying). Radio and phone have to reboot each time the engine goes off - very annoying. Display has a rev-counter (unnecessary with the CVT) but no engine temp-gauge (what were the designers thinking?) And no cabin temp-gauge, only the temp-setting. Minor problems I suppose. And no dipstick for the CVT - yes really. But my wife loves the car, and it runs well. But my heart is with the 2002 EJ2.5, where I know every sensor by sight. But I'm an 'old-school' type of guy.

In June or July used prices were up 16% and people are paying stupid prices for some used items now. But it’s hard for me to believe some of that given the current climate overall. I got a great deal at auction on a 2017 forester in March when market crashed, and can’t match that price now. If prices are up, this is good for those who can sell their own vehicles. You’ll get a decent price for it, and can make up more on the selling side than you’ll loose on the buying side.

the issue at my house, we really don't need 3 cars, but I don't want to give-up either of the ones I have. if I'm honest with myself, the WRX makes the least sense to keep, but it is the one I would miss the most. I do think shopping 'soon' could better than 'later'. If a vaccine becoms widely available, some types of products/services could experience a 'run' resulting in shortages. Although, I have also read that there is a glut of used cars (repos???) and that may keep prices down???

Going from the 05 to an h6 mpg will be the same (only on the highway will I see a difference of about 3-5 mpg. My 05 gets only 17mpg around here (stop signs everywhere). If im really gentle i can get 20mpg. I know its a bigger car. Im thinking a tear drop camping trailer in the future hence why Im thinkng the 6. I dont want a drag racer but the extra 70HP would come in handy for camping. Eyesite is one of the reasons for the upgrade.

NIpper, we traded a 2001 OBW LTD for a new 2017 OB Touring which we love. As I'm sure you know the touring came equipped with virtually all the extra add-ons from the 2017 LTD model. The only option we didn't go for was the 6-cylinder and I don't regret it. We also have a 2013 Legacy Ltd 2.5 CVT that is very similar in performance although the CVT itself is a slightly different noticeable design. I will tell you that the 2017 2.5 with CVT is a world away from those earlier models in the way the car responds and uses the engine power. We travel a lot visiting family in central Pennsylvania and the old 2.5 with the EAT trans would lug and struggle up mountainous hills, constantly downshifting to maintain speed and seemingly never want to go back up to a higher gear. Once it did upshift it would want to downshift again almost immediately. Any subaru owner with an older 2.5 with the 4EAT will know what I'm referring to. It has a much larger interior than the pre-2010 models. It's size jump is like going from an Impreza to an OB in the early 2000 model versions - there's that much of a difference. My daughter's 2014 Impreza Sport is the same size interior as the pre-2010 Legacy/Outback body styles. It's not a drag racer, but I've never gotten onto a situation where I felt we needed much more than it offers, honestly if it had another 20HP it would be ideal, but the occasional times I would think that are few and far between. Merging into 70+ MPH traffic on the PA Turnpike from a rest stop for example, but it passes well at higher speeds and has no trouble maintaining 80+ MPH climbing the afore mention mountain highways. I can't rationalize a jump up to the 6 just for that HP for that much of a difference in MPG, although a previously owned car's initial cost could theoretically make up for that added fuel usage if the price is right. BTW, if you've never experienced it EYEsite is amazing. That is worth the money hands down for daily and long distance driving.

If the crank sprocket was wrong, it wouldn't run at all. No question about that. You can look elsewhere for your problem. 100%. GD

made by man keep the code readers at the ready

Get it there quick !

With the engine cold

I've been trying for a while to get a more performance oriented suspension alignment on my GL-10 wagon. The two issues being caster and static camber. Here's how I handled the caster problem, by pushing the strut rod forward. It moves the tire forward a 1/2" too, so make sure there is clearance for this. The steering feel is better, and it also gets more negative camber when going around turns. Two of these: http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/enter.asp?partnum=8491A734 And a box of these: http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/enter.asp?partnum=98026A036 The camber I attacked in two ways. I used the Com-C strut tops from Whiteline that moved the strut mounting point inward; these are for the early WRX. I also drilled new holes in the subframe to push out the lower control arms. I was worried about the bolts slipping, but they've been fine for a year now. http://www.rallysportdirect.com/Whiteline-Com-C-Caster-Camber-Adjusting-Strut-Mount-Subaru-Models-inc-2002-2007-WRX-STI Handling is pretty fantastic now. With the Advan AD08 tires, the struts modified for stiffness, and the alignment mods, it's just about where I want it.