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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/05/21 in all areas

  1. Replace the PCV valve, use Subaru OEM.
  2. You can put it on the dyno - we run it nearly every day. Baseline runs are $120. The EA82 is an evolutionary dead end. It's got the heads and manifold of a tractor and the cooling system won't handle hours of WOT and full boost. Not to mention you can't get enough parts to keep up with the failures you will experience should you attempt that. Rebuilds aren't even meaningfully possible since no one is setup to main line hone the blocks and you can't get an oil pump from anywhere. It's a really poor choice of platform for a vintage/retro build. It's a wasteland out there for parts. The engine was just barely adequate in the 80's in stock form - now it's flat out garbage with EJ22's making significantly more power without a turbo and doing so with better fuel economy. My 1990 Legacy loaner car has 336k on the original drivetrain. GD
  3. My wife just got a 2020 Impreza Sport and came home tonight complaining about it being unstable on wet roads. She said it was all over the lane and the Eyesight function was going on and off. So we went into town, took the freeway and I drove. I turned off the lane assist (keeps you in your lane) and didnt have any issues. I had a few instances with hydroplaning, but it wasnt bad. She commented that there was more water on the road than where we were at the time of our test drive I told her to turn off the lane assist the next time the roads got bad and see if it still does it. Anyone else have Eyesight/Lane assist ever encounter this?
  4. I have a first gen/EA81 brat...well actually 3 first gen brats. All 1981 EA81 first gens. Im just getting into subarus. I have a few projects to finish up before I get into the subarus. Right now I'm just investigating and parts collecting.
  5. Take the distributor cap off. For each plug contact in the cap clean with very fine sandpaper or emery cloth, so there is no oxidation on the metal contacts. On the rotor, clean the metal contact also. Carbon fouled Black, dry soot on the electrodes and insulator tip indicates a carbon-fouled plug. This can be caused by a dirty air filter, excessive driving at low speeds, too rich of a fuel/air mixture or idling your vehicle for too long.
  6. I know all car manufacturers do not recommend using cruise control in bad weather, probably best to use as little automated drive assist as possible in rain & snow. I keep lane assist off by default unless on a major multi-lane highway with the cruise on. On smaller single lane and back roads the lane assist seems to want to make unnecessary micro adjustments.
  7. Don't buy timing belt parts by price. Buy by quality.

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