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Not reliable. I always start with the OEM part number (with the VIN on www.partsouq.com or www.parts.subaru.com). If that's cheap enough, I just buy OEM. Or I use the part number search on RockAuto to look for cross references to aftermarket numbers. Otherwise, RockAuto has a pretty good application lookup (look for notes, though, as there can be some tricky listings in there). Any parts store lookup. Or, I believe Dayco, Gates and Continental all have pretty good lookups right on their websites.

Sounds like you need a new mechanic. I've been working in dealership parts departments for about 10 years, now. And every vehicle gets a thorough inspection, and when necessary, potential failures are communicated/quoted to the customer and any work declined is clearly noted on the repair order for our records and theirs.

changing the 2-3 largest hoses preemptively makes sense to me as you might severely overheat before getting off the road. Ths smaller ones likely give you enough time before you go dry so, unless they are easy to get to and inexpensive, might just wait until they leak. Of course your personal situation makes a lot of difference on this type decision. If you rely on a 15-20+ year old car for critical transportation or long distances driving alone,etc. , you would want to address ANY issue that could strand you. maybe even carrying a starter, alt. and fuel pump even......plus tools lol! and repair tape as mentioned, JB-Weld, and other similar repair gear would be good to have with you.

Now. It’s 105 *months* or 105,000 miles. You’re due based on time no matter what. Also since it was changed once already we can guess 1 of 2, or both, of these are true: 1. it doesn’t have a Subaru or AISIN belt. 2. They didn’t also change the lower cogged idler. That current belt and pulley are trash. Those always bend 75% of the valves unless you’re real lucky Get a Subaru belt and Subaru lower clogged pulley - it’s only like $30 from subaru and as likely to fail as an old belt. You can Google pictures of the carnage, people have it happen all the time. I’ve seen it. And check the tensioner for leakage at the hydraulic seal $125 or so from Subaru if it’s soaking wet with pooled up oil on the tensioner lip where the seal seats. If it’s dry or very lightly coated and compressed properly it’s fine to reuse. If the car is decent and worth another 100k miles I’d get a complete AISIN kit with all new pulleys and water pump if the car is rust free and good condition. But the previous belt and one pulley for Subaru that I mentioned takes care of the most likely to fail items and offers great value for certain situations .

Finish up this thread. Everyone gets a Pleiades star cluster for naming the condenser as the cause. Replaced with a new one, charged it up and the cold air is back. For future reference, I found out during the diagnostic phase that I could jumper the connector at the AC Dryer to cycle the Compressor's clutch. I'd also read that connecting the green diagnostic connectors under the dash would cycle the clutch but that didn't work on my '98 Forester. Thanks!

If it were me, when you get it home, change all of the coolant hoses, unless you have done that recently. If they’re all basically the same age, you can expect more leaks in the future, especially the oil soaked ones.

105K initially and then I usually go every 80K after that. Cheap insurance. Make sure the pulleys are also changed. The cogged one usually goes first!

Typically listed aftermarket as a bypass hose, but it's actually inline with the heater hose circuit. Crucial to thermostat operation. Since it's such a simple hose with a bend, most parts stores stock one that will fit (sometimes with some trimming). If not, there are self-adhesive silicone hose repair tapes that work fairly well for emergency repairs. I try to keep a roll in my cars most of the time.

if you can't match it, as an emergency measure, see if you can make a bigger 'loop' with straight generic hose. Smallest 3/4 circle that doesn't kink. Tie/support it out of the way with some cord or zipties strung together.....? like this ____(

Lower control arm.