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its fixed. i changed the passenger sensor abs light was still on so i cleared the abs codes rechecked them and it was showing front left sensor code 23. so i pulled the abs sensor off the part car and swapped the front drivers sensor cleared the abs codes again and no more light.

Used a spring clamp. About the safest I have ever felt using these things!That is install grease, not stress fractures

Okay, that's nasty. And since it's unibody, getting the penetrant in there may be a challenge - although once you get one of the bolts out, you should be able to spray up into the hole. I've never looked in the Forester, but if you lift the floor and foam around the spare tire, you may find a couple of holes (perhaps plastic-capped) that open into the frame in more-or-less the right neighborhood. They're there for bolting in the bumper in the OBW. Just spitballing.

Nope, phase 2 revision 2 started in 2004.

it WAS addressed... by extending warranties for the vehicles affected AND changing the gasket design. the sheer volume of affected cars out there coupled with the fact that the failures did not typically happen until somewhere between 75 & 100k is why it appears to have dragged on for years. That, and many people did not have a problem, or ignored the early warning signs and did not take advantage of replacement warranties... Let it go.. this is not something to carry on about anymore. Geez... these vehicles are getting seriously long in the tooth now..

Don’t believe the seller in their post about a mythical $150 transmission from a yard in CT

Gosh darn it. With no floor jack (i.e. weight was on the suspension), I was able to unbolt the sway bar from the end link, rotate both link and bar up into their "more normal" position and rebolt. See attached photo. Took the rig out for a test drive w/no problems. Still will need to have an alignment done. Happy Monday.

To the question of quality: Of course, but I think this is a case of intersecting curves - that is, because 3/4" is just such a big brute piece of metal (cross-sectional area going up with the square of the radius and all that), you can get away with a cheaper mechanism and weaker alloy, and it's still not going to break. My most recent acquistion was one of these, bought on sale at half-price, methinks: https://www.princessauto.com/en/3-4-in-dr-x-24-in-ratcheting-breaker-bar/product/PA0008609018 What sold me on it was the reviewer who said that it didn't fail even with his big fat brother jumping up and down on an extra 2' snipe... It varies from place to place. My general understanding has always been that the ice melters used are more corrosive as you go east, but that could be a misapprehension. I do know that the salt that's used in the Maritimes adds a whole other level of danger because it draws moose onto the road to lick it up, and you come over a hill or around a curve and bang you're dead. Here out west I think some jurisdictions use non-NaCl melters to cut down on both corrosion overall and environmental contamination.

Should not be a problem - never encountered that before. I would inspect the orientation of the sway bar and links. Might be backwards or upside down. In any case - if you want it lifted then I would assume you want articulation - take the sway bar off. GD

no problem Bennie. and to be very honest, i did it as much for myself as for anyone else, lol trying to get my brain to think in metric terms a bit more... I have several 3d printers, so working in the smaller sizes is becoming old hat, but those longer ones.. yeah.. hard for me to go from millimeters to kilometers yet, or even meters, lol.

there is no pan, but there is a Drain plug. Typically Manual transmissions don't have "pans" Even brand new Subarus with manual trans would be the same way. Run from that lube shop. Morons.