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Commercial offerings such as the LINK ecu's we use are lightyears ahead of the Megasquirt stuff, etc. You would be much better served by an entry level LINK Monsoon. Very robust unit about the size of a deck of cards. Completely sealed and weatherproof, USB interface, very well developed software and data logging, excellent customer support and an active community forum, etc. They support the EA82 optical distributor chopper disc (it's actually the same as the Nissan stuff that LINK specializes in). And the Monsoon is less than $1k. Programming the stock ECU is WAY beyond your abilities if you want to "go mechanical" And running purely mechanical is a pipe dream unless you want to dig up an EA71 mechanical distributor (good luck finding any quality points/condensers for it) and stick it in an EA81 with a carb. People always want to do stupid things like that - easier to just harden the EFI against EMP. GD

"front right" and "transfer case", which is centrally located and work was done...this leave some uncertainty. Check brakes - might have a hung caliper slide that's sticking and freeing up during working on the vehicle but returns when back to driving it. Is the noise on the right, left, or center? Have someone stand outside the car and listen from both sides...can they hear it? Is one side louder? Does the noise vary: Is the noise the same when accelerating up a grade or driving lightly on flat ground? Same at 10 mph and 30mph? Same whether going straight or fast around sweeping left and right hand curves? Did he carefully check for debris in the oil when the diff oil was channged? If non change again and check for contamination. Could be a front diff bearing. Pull trans, separate front diff, replace bearings and side seals and make sure the ring and pinion is fine.. One of the bearings is $100+ Or get a used trans.

may need a disable switch on the rad fans.

Subaru parts: headgaskets, PCV valve, radiator hoses, radiator cap. Timing kit - pulleys, tensioner and belt. AISIN is a suitable supplier of OEM Subaru timing components. Absolutely resurface the heads.Don’t check for flatness it’s an archaic waste of time. 2 valve cover gaskets, 6(?) valve cover bolt grommets, 2 cam seals, (1 or 2) cam cap orings, oil pan gasket, crank seal, oil pump oring. 2 Exhaust manifold gaskets, 2 intake manifold gaskets, rear main seal. I’d get all subaru usually but many of these have good aftermarket alternatives. Tighten the oil pump backing plate screws. One or three are always loose. Use a quality driver. Reseal the rear separator plate - a 93 shouldnt be plastic but replace with metal if it is Install a new knock sensor. By far the single most common sensor to fail. New radiator and Subaru hoses and cap. Crank pulley - install a newer hood condition used one or buy new. Ive never seen Subaru valve issues in EJs so I usually leave valves and stem seals untouched. Splitting engines isn’t my speciality (if anything even is haha) so take this lightly but I wouldn’t recommend splitting the block.

ya i dnt mind haven computer controls as long as i can adjust them to suit mey needs . thanks for the info i will check it out

Highly recommend a n00b take my advise and DO NOT split the case. If there's no metal in the pan or the filter just leave it alone. Change rings and do up all the gaskets - being a n00b you will probably make mistakes even going that far unless you read for a solid couple months on the subject and buy the correct tools. I have many old posts on the subject and why this is the case. Search is your friend. And in general Subaru engines are not economically viable to rebuild in the first place - ReSEAL yes. Rebuild no. GD

Blinker fluid has gone bad or leaked out and isn't conducting a proper ground causing a back-feed through the seatbelt control module warning lamp. Fix the leak and fill it with the proper ratio of DOT3 and water. GD

Thank you all for the info and the link! I appreciate it. Going to get a new rad and cap Monday. You are absolutely correct, I bet the cap and maybe even a rad could be found locally, but I really try to make every effort to get genuine Subaru parts whenever possible before going to discount auto part store. With some exceptions of course, you know what I mean. I fixed the weak start/won't run problem. Seems it was a combination of a old fuel filter and a vacuum leak. I also localized the localized the source coolant steam but have yet to pin point it. It seems to rise from the dead center of the engine, beneath from where the intake hose clamps on.

There are a total of 7 hoses involved with the cooling system. A few of them can leak on top of the block. Unless you know they are new, replace all of them. Be sure to clean the nipples , they typically have rust and won't seal. I have found that plumber's silicon grease makes later disassembly much easier. Once the new hoses are on, and you have followed the procedure to remove most of the air, watch the coolant level closely. You may have an intake gasket leak - those can go either into the intake or out onto the block. Head gaskets can develop seeps to the outside. I have usually seen this after an overheat while low on coolant. This also can lead to blown head gaskets. Smelling hot coolant usually means a small leak where it hits something hot. Intake leak has to get very bad before smoke gets obvious. Coolant in the oil doesn't usually happen until the head gaskets are VERY well blown.

Keep in mind that hose leaks can seal when the engine is off or at idle. Park the car and start the engine. Open the hood and manually rev the engine by manipulating the throttle cable. Give it a good high sustained rev to force any leak. Watch for small streams of coolant from the small hose in the side of T-Stat or any of the radiator hoses. A slit leak can self close and not drip at idle speeds, however at higher revs the coolant pressure increases and the leak opens up.

might as well do the little hose, too, or it will go. Your subaru will like yummy new hoses