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More than a couple times I’d run into a young DMV employee or such and they’d just be amazed and say things like “this isn’t right” or “I think you’re missing some numbers” , silly kids.

It has IGNITION CONTROL SYSTEM troubleshooting flow chart. Step one is check for spark with a timing light, if no light then check body side of crank angle sensor ( 4 wires off the distributor) for 12v and 2 4v wires and a ground. If you dont have that voltage its bad ECU or bad wiring, you have to pull up the ECU pin read out at that point. After that you plug the crank angle sensor and you check for a 4-5 volt Square wave coming from the crank angle sensor. What I would recommend at this point is to disconnect all injectors and fuel pump so you can just run the distributor buy hand or with a drill. Next you need to check for voltage at the 2 - pole power transistor. One side needs to have a constant 12v, the other wire is a 12v square wave coming from the ECU. This is where the service manual left me. And it didn't have specific voltages for the square waves. It didn't even tell you that there was square waves. The part they left out is that the power transistor can go bad( believe it or not). it should read out like any NPN transistor, you are going to have to look up how to test that. But you can with a multi meter with diode check. You can replace the hitachi HF83118D1 transistor with any NPN transistor that is rated for the voltage and amperage. It will take some retrofitting and testing but it will work. This has to be one of the most intense trouble shooting I have ever done. Check fuses first 😂

Yeah, I think we were much the same - if a number was the 17 character length, we call them VIN's , other forms - body number (even if the had letters in them )

Thank you. ]

No - there is nothing but the bolt for the crank pulley's on the NA EA82's. You didn't put enough torque on it if it came loose. GD