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Directly opposite the lobe. You always measure lash at the lowest point on the cam which is 180 degrees away from max lift. GD

I would definitely order the front tophats to have on hand at least .. those are the ones that have the bearing in them for steering. and KYB for the win there Rears don't typically have many issues. springs, boots, and other stuff, unless in really bad shape, just swap over to the new struts.

Absolutely. Even with ripped boots I’ve put 100,000 miles on rears and 50,000 miles on fronts with ripped boots and no issues and no clicking. No big deal. If you have ripped boots and drive in sand, off-road, or aggressive stone/aggregate abrasives used for winter treatments - they’ll literally start clicking on day one. Been there done that multiple times. So yes - extrapolate that out to everything in between. It depends how badly the grease is compromised and how much actual abrasives are introduced which depends on the local roads and winter treatments.

D@mn straight. That's the rule: Do not swerve to miss a deer - hitting the ditch is more likely to kill you, and the deer is unlikely to do more than damage the car and die (though the first one I really nailed a few years ago went high, blew half the windshield into my face, and pushed the roofline back about six inches). But you have to swerve to miss the moose, because they're both heavy and high, and sure to come through the windshield and kill you. A near-miss of a moose at night is just about the most terrifying thing you can imagine, because as you pass it at speed in a small, low car like a Legacy it looks ten or twenty feet tall. It's really a weird effect, and lots of people report it. A friend of mine who used to have a Ferrari had a much more amusing story about one of the other guys he drove with (I can't remember whether his was another Ferrari or a Lamborghini) hitting a deer out in my neighborhood, and since the car was so low it scooped the viscera and blew it all into the passenger compartment...

look at the cam lobes where they contact and look for the lowest point.

cig lighter/power ports have a 'local' fuse/fusistor built on the back of them .

On my 05 OB with 150K Miles the part identified as "mounting kit" is what failed. Rattling and clunking. Replaced those top mounts (KYB brand) and kept on driving. The shocks were fine.

also, those things have a 'local' fuse built onto the back of the socket. Easily popped by getting wonky with phone chargers and similar adapters.

doubt I can help much but, with all that work and poking around, you need to confirm the IACV hose is connected at the intake end - causes inability to idle if loose/leaking. Easily left off or knocked loose.