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Very different cars. I wheeled lifted EA82s for years, and was in the middle of building a 25:1 Subaru 5MT for my Brat. Then I took our stock '04 Outback H6 VDC to the local offroad park (old iron ore pit mine, VERY rocky and technical), and did a lot of the same trails, in comfort, with the A/C on, with the torque converter I was able to just gently drive over obstacles that would have been a dance on the pedals and a cloud of clutch smoke. On the terrain I'm used to, at least, I don't want a clutch offroad unless the crawl ratio is AT LEAST 100:1, preferably more like 150:1. Can't touch that in a Subaru. But, from what I understand of sand driving with an auto, it generates a ton of heat which pretty quickly becomes a problem. So consider the terrain at those local parks, as well. I also don't miss street driving my EA82s, the Outback is a freakin Bentley by comparison.

DO NOT use loctite on the crank bolt. They are installed dry. Torque to 150 Ft/lbs. GD

Get the front drive shafts too. At some point in the Gen3s (or was it the foresters, I can’t remember now!) they went from diff stub axle with cotter pin to hold drive shaft on to drive shaft pushed into diff held by a C clip on the driveshaft. This changes the bearing tensioner setup and the oil seal as a result of this change. Having the matching driveshafts come with the gearbox ensures you have what you need to drop in and go. Cheers Bennie

Well the time has finally come!!! I have commenced the EJ222 swap I have been wanting to do for years! This last I pulled the engine and detailed and painted the engine bay. Today(Monday) I have cleaned and starting putting things back into the engine bay as well as cleaning up old wiring and putting new tape loom zip ties etc on the harness. I’m hoping to get the EJ at least in sooner than later and then do every other little thing I want to do to it. I’ll upload some pictures of the progress and other things I’ve done.

there is a rubber section in between the main pulley (part that was left on your car) and the outer part that carries the belts. the rubber gets old & brittle over time and fails.. in your case it failed completely, the outer portion came away and the accessory belt polished up the remaining part. It does happen.

I have a 95 aftermarket leggo radiator, new in box, has trans cooling connections. Yes it has the plastic sides. I paid $200 for it, would let it go for $50 plus shipping. Sold my 95 legacy a while back, was a great car, my last non interference engine and the first of the subaru line to have OBDII, a year before it was standard. I routinely change radiators before they fail, every 100k, just cheap insurance. Never had a problem with side tanks, but had a leak from a top tank once on an impreza. I have a 2002 EA4T with an external transmission cooler plus an inline mag filter in addition to the stock screw-on filter, that isn't routed through the radiator. All my towing is done with a manual gearbox. I figure a clutch is slightly easier (and far cheaper) to replace than a transmission, and I've done both. Sounds like you know your way around under the hood. Hope you stick around on this board.

Yes, it will be the only 12 pin connector on top of the bellhousing. Lavender looks like blue. Pin 11 should show continuity to the small connector on the starter. Pin 12 should show 12v when the key is turned to Start. (if the interrupt relay is working OR jumped) Strip the tape back a little ways and cut the two wires. I would twist and solder them, but you can use a wire nut. If you have silicone grease (dielectric for spark plug wires) Poke the twisted wires in it and then put the wire nut on them. Keeps moisture off the wire. Tape it and the open end of the connector.

No - the GT would have the Outback calipers, which got larger in 03/04 and required 16" wheels IIRC. They will work but require a larger rotor and possibly a different pad. And for the record. He may be the great one.... but only if The King proclaims it. And that's me. GD