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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/29/21 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    @OldieSubie - 20amp fuse is stock it seems. I really think you’ll have to undo all this wiring and work out what does what with a fused wire from the battery positive terminal. Note down what is what then we should be able to move forward with how that’s wired into the factory setup. I’m not sure how else to do this. I’d find your current way very frustrating! Cheers Bennie
  2. 1 point
    What’s up ya’ll! Been gone for about 10yrs, just found a few treasures while cleaning the garage and thought I’d post them in the market place. Wish I still had my ‘84 GL hatch!
  3. 1 point
    Moosens! Didn’t I sell you a gen 1 dual carb and intake back in the day?
  4. 1 point
    Swap the bulbs side to side and see if the fault follows the bulb. You will also get a chance to inspect the bulbs and connectors.
  5. 1 point
    The FSM for an '89 says 20 BTDC @ 800 RPM for all models SPFI and MPFI with Turbocharger. I know you have an '87, but it can't be all that different. I'd make 100% sure the rotor points directly- as in dead nuts on- at the #1 post on the distributor before checking the timing again if you removed the distributor. FWIW, my car was timed 5 or 10 degrees off (too far advanced) before and after my timing belt job, and I'll tell you what. It runs so much better with those extra 5 degrees out of it. I'm not sure why, because you usually see a small seat of the pants improvement with advanced timing.
  6. 1 point
    Bennie has been giving solid advise, as always. I have a '82 GL Brat that I could take some photos of the wiring... it is LHD. Half of my 80's Subies have a toggle switch for the radiator cooling fan. The sensor in the radiator ends up going bad or getting corroded. Instead of paying $50 some dollars for the sensor through Subaru, it is easier to wire a toggle somewhere within reach of the driver seat, and to monitor the engine temp during the hot months. In the winter, the cooling fan is rarely needed
  7. 1 point
    You need to try and meet up with someone who has a Subi of the same era without the butchered wiring to cross reference. That tube fuse holder with the blue wire is a factory unit. Bugger it, I just ducked outside and grabbed these pics from my Brumby: Looking at your pics, it seems that someone has added that second circular plug. As per my pics mine is one side white and the other side blue - I had an inkling this was the case but didn’t want to give you a bum steer. I also wonder what those plugs further up the line are for - the pink one caught my attention as I don’t have any of them there, just neatly wrapped wiring. It’s either a LHD vs RHD difference OR someone may have attempted to splice two loom sections into one for some unknown reason. You might have to pull all the wires from that relay, record their colours and what they do - that will require some investigative work - but it would give us the best way to work out how everything is laid out in a factory wired vehicle by comparing what I and others have with their EA81’s. That’ll give you something to work on for now though! Cheers Bennie
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