edrach

Look at the label on the bell housing of the transmission; it will say something like TY752-VABBA. Then go to the transmission chart in the USRM and look up your transmission. It will tell you whether yours is a 3.900 or 4.111. Then check the transmission chart to see what models/years have the same ratio so you know what to look for in a used transmission. Good luck. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=97885 You can also find the transmission number on the VIN# plate on the fender well in the engine compartment.

You won't find anyone nicer or more honest than Jerry.

I found the best d/r 5speed to be in the '88 GL (Loyale) wagons, but any of the ones from '85 to '89 will do. They're pretty bulletproof. Jerry helped me with the conversion on my '84 Brat almost 10 years ago. It's still running; a bit "crunchy" now when shifting but that's okay; I can live with it.

Welcome to the Board. Post your '84 GL in the forsale forum. Thanks for trying to keep it in use with someone who will want it instead of towing it to the junkyard.

Fred Myer carries GSM in their magazine section. This issue will hit the stands in about two weeks.

140 ft lbs it is. It's really hard to over tighten them; just be sure they are tight enough. Even tighter doesn't matter.

This is asked so many times that it should be in the USRM. I use a 3/16" tool to drive out the roll pins, Craftsman p/n 42885WF if you buy it at Sears. Knock the pin OUT from the non-bevelled hole side; knock the new pin IN from the bevelled hole side. If it doesn't go in and only 1/2 hole is visible, you're 180 degrees out of correct position. Pull the DOJ off and rotate it 1/2 turn and slide it back on the stub axle; the pin will now go in easily.

This is asked so many times that it should be here. I use a 3/16" tool to drive out the roll pins, Craftsman p/n 42885WF if you buy it at Sears. Knock the pin OUT from the non-bevelled hole side; knock the new pin IN from the bevelled hole side. If it doesn't go in and only 1/2 hole is open, you're 180 degrees out of correct position. Pull the DOJ off and rotate it 1/2 turn and slide it back on the stub axle; the pin will now go in easily.

Good idea to add a relay as well as fusing the wiring you take off the battery. Use appropriate gauge wire for the lamps you are using.

I rebuild the PS pump on my '97 Impreza a while back $35 for the kit from the dealer. Oddly enough it didn't include the bearing; probably because it's immersed in oil for all it's life.

My '94 Impreza sedan had the battery relocated in the trunk inside a covered battery box by the previous owner. I think the PO used #4 gauge wire to bring the power forward. Only advantage was to even up the weight distribution of the car slightly. Certainly wasn't needed for more room for the EJ18 in front.

Which color fusible links do you need? I can probably find them at pull a part. Cheapest source.

Sadly, in reply #2 from Cincybuckeye, both links mentioned are dead. I hope some of this got into the USRM.

Granted working with the local dealer directly is the quickest way, but the internet discount is significant and more than makes up for shipping costs and a longer wait when time is not an issue.

Just for the record, my '97 Impreza (originally a 3.900) has had a '95 Legacy (4.111 with matching rear), a '96 Legacy (back to the 3.900), and a '95 WRX (JDM with 4.111 again). Why am I going through transmissions so fast you ask. Original car was bought with 120K on the odo and I use it for my DD and rallyX car. All the other transmissions, except the WRX one, came from Pull a Part and had over 125K on them when I pulled them. WRX tranny required the most modification since it was hydraulicly actuated and needed a conversion to cable (new clutch fork and moving the pivot ball for the fork and removing the hydraulic stuff and replacing it with the cable stuff). My suspicion is that almost year from 1991 to 2000 (and maybe later) can be made to fit. By the way, the WRX transmission only had 45K on it when it was installed. It's the sweetest shifting I've seen in the Imp. We'll see how long it lasts. Since this one is a short ratio gearbox I'll likely have it rebuilt if it goes out prematurely.

Only dealer in Seattle area that could cut a key for my Brat was Scarff in Auburn; those people who know me, know that there are 7 dealers closer to me than Auburn. None of them could cut me a key from the VIN or the code. Since then I found a locksmith in Redmond who can cut a key from the key code on the passenger side cylinder for $10.

+1 for both providers mentioned.

Address your ideas to Subarutex.

The PASSENGER side front door lock cylinder has the key code for your car. Any decent locksmith can cut you a new key from the code. The dealer might also; but likely will need the key code since they've tossed the key information for the '80's models long ago.

I read the other post on this and I'm still not clear whether it's the front sensor or the rear (my code reader says rear). For the record, I'm up to 179K on the engine/car.

It's not cold enough this winter in our area, but the weber will ice over badly when it is really cold. Glad you got it fixed quickly.

Anything to worry about. I get this every 4 to 6 weeks on my '97 Impreza. I clear it and it takes another 4 to 6 weeks to come back again. It's an O2 sensor code. Should I be worried?

I have a hardcopy of the weber manual. I should see if I can get it scanned and post a pdf for the 32/36.

Are there one or two wires to the thermal switch (on the side of the radiator)? If one wire, unplug and touch it to ground. If the fan runs strong either the switch or the ground is bad. There should be a small wire connecting the radiator to the frame of the car (on top); if the wire is bad or missing, you have no ground return from the radiator.

+1 on the clutch adjustment. +1 on the wiring leading to the wiper motor. Usually breaks around the hinge joint where the cable is flexed everytime you open and close the hatch. PITA to fix. Don't worry too much about the timing belt for now since you have a non-interference engine. But inspect the belt sometime when you have a chance.