edrach

Probably the loop on the end of the cable that controls the valve opening on the heater has come undone. A bit of a pain to get to, but if the end isn't broken off, it's an easy fix.

I'm pretty sure I have the low profile version in my spares kit. I don't need to trade but would sell the shorter one for $10 plus postage. If you're interested let me know by PM and I'll check on it.

Taken from the 2010 Rally Calendar (check post #7 for update) ORG 2010 Rallycross Schedule DO CHECK THE ORG WEBSITE FOR UPDATES; I'M SURE THERE WILL BE SOME. 3/21 #1 of 8 Washington County Fairgrounds 4/4 #2 of 8 Washington County Fairgrounds 5/2 #3 of 8 Washington County Fairgrounds 5/29 #4 of 8 Washington County Fairgrounds 6/25 #5 of 8 Washington County Fairgrounds (SCCA/ORG) No July Rallycross scheduled 8/22 #6 of 8 Washington County Fairgrounds 9/19 #7 of 8 Washington County Fairgrounds 10/10 #8 of 8 Venue to be announced

I'm not sure I would be up for such a project, but when I inquired with the dealer at the cost of replacing the separate CD unit with one that has iPod input I almost had a heart attack at the cost. For $150 I bought a new CD/AM-FM tuner with iPod adapter built in (included the wiring harness adapter) and installed the radio myself. I hardly ever use the CD anymore since almost all my music is on my first generation iPod. Installation was easy and I saved almost $300.

Subaru will return in 2010, offering prize money to registered competitors in the three All-Wheel Drive categories. Payouts will be offered to top-three finishers with $300 awarded for a win. Prize money more than doubles at the Eastern and Western States Championships where a win will net $750, and increases once again for the RallyCross National Championship, where Subaru is prepared to award $1,250 for a win in each AWD class. Registration forms and full program details are available at www.scca.com/rally by selecting “Contingencies” from the left-side menu. Drivers are encouraged to review program requirements carefully to ensure full compliance. To be eligible for contingency prizes, drivers must register for each program prior to their first event. More programs will be posted as they become available.

I remember a friend in high school that had a "shorting plug". Whenever he didn't have his homework prepared or wanted to avoid a class, he'd bring the plug with him and find an outlet. He never did get caught. Some people are jsut weird.

Some ancient history here, but it applies to Subaru also. I had a rally prepped Datsun 510 back in Wilmington, DE with the original Hatachi carb. I stopped in at the local dealer (who also owned a raceshop and had a race prepped 510--this was in 1980 or so) and checked if the parts guy had a rebuild kit for the Hitachi carb. The parts guy looked around to make sure no one else was in earshot and suggested I get a weber. When I thought to buy a new Hitachi, he looked me in the eye and said again, "get a weber; the Hitachi comes new with the flat spot built in."So save your pennies and get a weber.

First statement is generally true; maybe most have solid axles, but all the early EA81 4WDs don't have solid axles (unless someone modified it).

As the man said, replace the front axles; the one with the torn boot first. I know nothing about Master axles, but I don't think you can go wrong with MWE. You only need to have to re-do an axle you just replaced and all your initial saving with go out the window with the loss of time in doing the same job a second time. Good luck with it. As to the rear diff, that's the way an "open" diff works; once one wheel starts to spin there's not power to the other one. You can resolve that with a limited slip differental (LSD). Do not go with a VLSD since that won't help you at low speeds.

Odd, I replaced my 3.900 transmission/rear diff with a 4.111 pair in my '97 Impreza. Speedometer error was about 2mph high across the range with both set-ups. So no apparent change with that change. My '97 has a mechanical cable running the speedo/odo.

Do you have a mechanical or electronic display for the odometer? Mechanical is certainly different. Electronic gets VSS pulses from a sender in the transmission which got to the speedometer as well as the ECU.

If you decide to fix it, keep all receipts for parts involved since the state inspection will want to see them to insure that no stolen parts were involved in the repair. We've done this a few times and the inspection is required to re-register the car with the new title. Not a really difficult process.

If the receipt is recent, I would guess the PO got a bad reman. My vote is for replacing that side (just a guess).

I've re-compressed a number of tensioners with a large bench vise. It takes less than 10 minutes if you pause about 30 seconds between each tightening. Line up the holes for the "grenade pin" that will hold the tensioner together. I tighten about 1/8th turn each time; you'll get a feel for it if you go too fast. Also, make sure that the "grenade pin" that you use to hold the tensioner together comes out in the correct direction when mounted (look to see how you want to insert the pin BEFORE you remove the tensioner). I use a "L" hex wrench or heavy coat hanger wire for the grenade pin. Edit: All my tensioners were for pre-97 EJ's; I don't know if this applies to the newer version.

Sorry, too dark last night to get a good look at both Brats; just noted the difference in the instrument cluster.

Yes, it can be done without removing the engine. However, I'd consider replacing the water pump at the same time (do you really think it will last another 100k miles; labor to replace it is practically the same). Also, any idlers that don't sound perfect will need replacement. And, lastly, unless you can re-compress the belt tensioner yourself, you'll need a new one of those. Also, OEM only on the belt, water pump, and tensioner. Quality non-OEM idlers can be found. Also you don't need a jack. But removing the radiator (and what comes with this) will make it much easier. Lastly, is your car a '97 or later model? If so, it's an interference engine; if you do it wrong, it's an expensive fix. A non-interference engine will just require a "do-over" without any internal damage.

The dash assembly is the same, but the instrument cluster for the DL did not have a tach or oil pressure guage (or temp guage if I remember correctly). Just idiot lights for temp and oil.

The definitive test for DOJ failure is if the vibration does away when you let off on the gas pedal. If the vibration stays on trailing throttle it's not the DOJ. Sometimes the vibration is so slight another person not used to your car would not notice it; sometimes it can be so bad you think the transmission is about to fall out of the car. In either case, if the vibration ceases on trailing throttle it's a pretty definite indication of a bad DOJ.

EJ22 is good, but EJ18 is more available, more reliable, and cheaper. Not much difference in HP. Which Brat are you upgrading? Gen1 or Gen2?

Certainly does look like fun. Brings back memories of the Icekhana series put on by Taconic Autosports Club back in the "day." I'm not sure if they're still doing it but it was usually a 6 week series every Sunday on a course set up on a frozen lake. Not head to head racing but more like an autocross event. I wasn't very good, but I had a great time.

I'd find a good reason to spend some time "south of the border" have them mounted and not mention it unless asked. I remember a few years ago, taking a "getaway weekend" with my wife in Abbotsford and picking up a set of four Hakkis and having them mounted on my car before returning to the U.S. At the time, the Hakkis were not available here and the Canadian dollar was lower than it is now. So that difference paid for the motel and dinners and sight-seeing.

The higher output alternators usually charge to a slightly higher voltage and 2000 rpm. I wouldn't be concerned with 14.3V (I think the max should be around 14.5) and 13.5 to 13.8 is pretty typical. But for sure the 15V and continuing increase with rpm is a sign the internal regulator is not working. Take it back and get another. As to the headlights not working, check the bulbs again; 16V or more will fry the filament pretty quickly. As a matter of fact, having both low beams burn out together is a pretty common indication of a faulty regulator in the alternator.

So does the fan start to run when starting to overheat at idle? If not, it's either a fan or switch problem. Which model do you have? This would help in suggesting a trouble-shooting sequence.

I was disappointed when Subaru went to the smaller filter size; erroneously I thought that larger was better although I had no data to support that fact. Talking to a number of people whose opinion I respect in regards to engines and their longevity, I came to the conclusion that if Fuji Heavy Industries uses the smaller filter on their larger, more sporty engines (i.e. EJ25, WRX, STi), then the smaller OEM filter is just fine on my '97 model L Impreza. Since I change my oil and filter at a 3000 mile or less interval (let's not get into a discussion on that ) I don't see any point in spending more money, time, and effort into speculative "improvements" regarding oil filters without any hard data to support that.

This will certainly carry you over to when the local season starts again. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ozntieZs8Bg Full screen and full volume!!