bheinen74

okay, so subaru needs go back to ej22 block design, but i think they destroyed the casting molds for it.. many ej22 engines with over 300,000 miles and never a HG many ej25 with HG and less than 60k miles. hmmm. quality, yea its gone

any SVX wheels? I need left and right and cheap

bump

if it rains on my herculiner, it turns it a grayish...when it dries goes back to black.

save the sheetmetal that gets cut off, especially rear quarter panel. I am sure, someday, a cheap Brat will be for sale locally, with rusted qp arches, so they could be used as patches....keep them in the attic or something.

http://s405.photobucket.com/albums/pp132/bheinen74/?action=view&current=IMGA3759.jpg i think it turned out pretty decent and 40 bucks. after over a year, no pealing cracking flaking etc. it stayed put. its rubbery, but durable. The big dogs have not scratched thru and they jump in. I don't think the Price can be matched.

if that was around here, subie would win. most of the lifted 4x4 trucks around here don't have working 4wd.

I am looking for someone near Evansville, Indiana to look at a car for me for a parts car to my SVX... And even better, if someone there would be able to trailer the car into the east edge of iowa for a small fee.

get the matching diff and you will be set. nice.

maybe yor carb kit came with the needle and seat which i needed in my kit. I made mine work, but it for sure came with wrong needle and seat? NAPA?

I bet you can tear it down to replace the main bearings, all by yourself. And, if you destroy 1 trying, it sounds like you can easily get another that has bad bearings. If you figure it out, you can make a living doing this. Good Luck, just get some courage and use the board for help.

yes, why didnt you go for a 91leg tranny? either way, there are PLENTY of 3.9 diffs around.

another 2.5 HG?

it helps to get lots of snow and drive right on by other people who are stuck, and they see a suby going thru the snow no problems. also, the Tribeca, is a SUV. nothing mini about it.

yes a tube flare tool. they are pretty cool. kind of like a c clamp, that holds the tube and flares out the end.

its due to all the snowy weather across the country, and people becoming more educated about buying a vehicle that does well in snow.

the low mileage original radiator is better quality than any replacement would be. As long as it is clean inside, and fresh antizreeze, don't change out to a made in China crappy radiator that will crack in a year.

the leaks are the factory own rustproofing system. If you wash the gunk off, its likely to leak even more when you brake off the sealing gunk. welcome to the Subaru world. Sounds like a really good start getting something with low miles and such. Post your questions and someone will answer, this board is really beneficial

will attempt to find a wrecked car....may be years away. they arent even here yet.

one gallon, i did not go any higher on the back than the hook handles, did the entire inside of tailgate, and about a foot below the back window and below. I left everything higher as body color cause it was in great shape there. http://s405.photobucket.com/albums/pp132/bheinen74/?action=view&current=IMGA3764.jpg http://s405.photobucket.com/albums/pp132/bheinen74/?action=view&current=IMGA3759.jpg

I did the BRAT with Herculiner, was on sale at Menards for 60 a gallon kit, then it had a 20.00 rebate. I first sprayed it out using some of that simple green cleaner degreaser, then rinsed with the hose. After drying for a long time in the sun, I used scotch brite pad to scuff the surface up, and the two little scratches i cleaned up and sprayed with a etching type rust converter. After the scoth brite, i used a rag with alcohol on it to get any of the sanding grit up. I have not had any peel up in the year plus. My dogs have not appeared to have scratched thru either. Herculiner recommends 2 coats, i think i ended up with about 2.5 coats, basically after 2 coats i was almost out and i re rerolled some of the areas that looks a little thin, or could still see some body color under. Key is to use a power drill with on eof those stirrers at the end, you have to constantly stir the product, as it has pieces of ground up rubber that will sink to the bottom unless you keep stirring it.

those are more expensive than oem from Subaru....why even go that route of paying more and taking a chance. get a oem, from Jason at Mike Scarff.

my most trouble free cars have been Hondas,but since going to AWD via Subaru, i would rather have maintenance and safety/traction over no maintenance

Ask Subiemech to post a picture of his. I like what he has done to keep the power steering. so it can be taken back to original fairly easily.

even the FSM is wrong, case in point torque spec for 91-94 legacy crank pulley bolt, they show it incorrect, and there have been many issues due to it being wrong.