bheinen74

that switch is supposed to mount so the backstop on the lever pushes it in, that then light is supposed to go on for 4wd. the lo is built into the trans, no external switch for lo. The black switch is only to indicate 4wd....now....since the switch is undone from the hole it mounts in, can you push the plunger in, and see if the light comes on for 4wd.?

Mine look like this... They appear as if they survived several passes of a buffer at some point by the previous owner the dark part is still gummy residue, which is now hardened due to sun action.... I doubt mine would come off with anything.....

Although you mention you cannot touch the car, for others, look in glovebox for paperwork, and here is a good one, look on the windshield for the clingy next oil change due at xxxxxx miles. you can guestimate there. I was looking at a builder car 04 Forester, and asked the miles, but it would have taken the sales guy like 15 minutes to go get the keys or look it up. I looked up to the left corner top windshield, said next oil change due at 87,xxx miles, so i could guestimate the car had a little under that.....told the sales person never mind got it off the next oil change due sticker..

velcro and a pizza box treated with aluminum foil for each fun top . never done it but might be perfect. again, they are not T tops. They are not T-tops. The official name is Halo Twin Roof / Twin Halo Fun Tops or Fun Tops....mkay. but T tops is a trademark of GM or whatever and was never used in Subarus terminology in literature. not trying to be a di#k just trying to inform. ________________

search ej to ea adapter plate.

well done, nice job of killing the clutch disc. That will buff right out.

big vacuum hose connected under the intake tubing?

wrong. any car in that limited production number, is worth at least 2g. A car to crush at the junker sells for 325. i am waiting on pics i might buy at 1800 and have it shipped

You should just replace the door rubber with good ones not torn. Ie junkyard car. prevention is key. Do you wash the car in the dead of winter? if so, you probably have water there that freezes at night. When you open the door after it is froze, it causes the rubber to stick to the door jamb, and something must give. in your case, the rubber tears. Don't wash car in dead of winter. If you doo, take the time to dry out the jambs and such before letting car freeze. Use silicone condition or wipe rubber conditioner on them.

thats how to id a turbo brat just kidding. Turbo BRATS were made in 83 and 84 They had special badging, on the Tailgate gold turbo emblem on the mirrors, gold turbo emblems The cluster will have a Boost guage mounted normally where the reg BRAT oil pressure guage sits. intake different no kidney bean air cleaner. the body side modlings and bumpers will have a gold strip whereas reg brat has chromish

i borrowed (pay deposit get it back when return) from autozone the 2 piece threaded clamps. Trick i found out was to clamp them on before you jack the car up. The weight of the car on the springs keeps them close. Just snug compressor bolts while car is on ground. Then jack car up, then remove strut/spring assembly. Then you don't have to tighten much to get the top mounts off. install with the clamp still on them and loosen to line the strut bolts up to you chassis.. please someone else chime in for more info. -hints. mark with paint pen the position of the spring coil, the top mount, and the top holder.... -hint. also mark a dot on the outer part of the perch so you install same way it was removed from car, there is a outer hole and inner hole on perch so mark the outer. -hint for fronts, before front removal spray paint over the knuckle camber adjustment area so it will mark the position of the camber slot, so you can install and not have to go in for alignment....you could also scratch the line with an awl

The banjo bolt filter/screen attaching the oil supply line to the turbo housing is the culprit. It could gunk/clog with non frequent oil changes, sludging up, and basically causing a turbo heart attack from lack of oil. Most of these occurred about 50-60k miles, and then Subaru under warranty would replace the turbo. BUT.....Read this+++++++++> by the time the problem in the turbo was detected, just replacing the turbo was not enough, as many of the spit up there bearings into the bottom end of the engine. So, eventually, block damage occurs. So, make sure you look at records. If the turbo was replaced, make sure the bottom end was checked for turbo bit damage.

turbos need oil changed every 3000 miles. If this has not been done ALWAYS, (ie no records showing this) then pass, that is for sure not a well taken care of car.....if it has gone past 3k mark on oil interval There are lots of cars for sale with full records, indicating a caring owner. No records, no deal

http://www.jcwhitney.com/in-dash-radio-installation-kits/p2012205.jcwx?filterid=d1933y1981j1 "This product is guaranteed to fit or work with your 1981 Subaru GL or your money back. No questions asked. Price: $21.99 Kit Shipping:See Item Details Tab" bet it wont work though

what is causing a pop pop pop pop or knock nok nok on cyl #3 when plug wire is on coil. misses but no poppopopopopo when wire detached from dizzy.. i am not famiiar with the ea82 but do know ea81 and ej22 and ej25..... backgrund new car to me bought for cheap : already reolaced dizzy, plugs timing belts good shape and timing is checking out good. doh i am going to part the red turd soon if nothing comes on this thread.

all Japanese cars have the code on the passenger door lock. so that means a RHD Subaru has it on the left door.....

please provide the dealer who told you this. We need to avoid that place, and if I was you, I would find another dealer to go to as well. Places like that dealer need shutdown before someone is killed.

best to call it toast, go the pick n pull yard and get a lower mileage unit to install. Look at odo on the car, find one with lower miles.....smell the fluid on the disptick and look at the fluid color, unless they have drained it. make sure if you need AWD you get one with AWD. some of those legacies in that era are only FWD. Read up on the torque converter seating. Make sure you get one from same 92-94 model so you get the right ratio for your rear diff.. research the install issues of torque converters.

possible wrong oil pressure switch? they did make 2 styles...one with light.....one with guage.....

Ebay sells lots and lots of stuff saying exact fit for Brat, Fits BRAT, etc, when they are not even for the ea81.....you have to know this. unless someone swapped motors, you should go to dealer and give vin. If you give vin to dealer (and no one swapped motors) you wil get the right parts.

oh boy...its in the owners manual. just off the top of head, don;t follow this but you get the picture: get in car, turn key to acc. turn key off. open door close door. turn key. press lock button press unlock press down xx times wait for beep and light on program code in the fob by clicking the button on door of done correctly, fob will work and car will honk. but usually you have to try it like 5 times before you get it right.....ridiculous, need to shoot person again. something like this...its so screwy.....whoever designs this garbage needs shot in the head. if 4 fobs have already been entered at some point, then need to reset the whole system. Instructions for reset are in manual too. like i said, person was seriously inept at this step by step guide.

sounds like the replacement trans was fine, you drove it for 30 miles. Did you read up on how to "seat the torque converter" before you installed the replacement. It does sound like you fubarred the trans pump not seating the TC right, based on what i read. I would reckon if you didnt search that proper issue, and you didnt seat it correct, you will be going thru this yet a 3rd time. be careful, take you time, get it right.

maybe you will get lucky and find that 3rd gear....is it all sloppy finding other gears too, normal bushing mia problem? it might still be there, you just gotta search for it. Yeah i know you are aware of this, i had to just throw it out. If it is a 5speed, without 3rd gear, it is now a redneck 4 speed.

The reason for having 10 posts counts for PM is so that we don't have spammers come on here, create an account, and immediately start bombarding us with cheap Nikes, and free ipads.....garbage. Just reply or ask more questions on threads that interest you.

"but my mechanic friend saw it and he said that that kit is too "cheap quality" and recomend to me to buy another kit" the mechanic is educated, i wouldnt use it either. He wants oem quality. Not many mechanics will stand by shoddy products...if it looks like junk, it is junk.