bheinen74

Don't use the guage position to determine gallons used. You determine gallons the car drank when you pump gas the next time. If you had a full tank to begin trip, and drove, then when you fill it back to full the next gas pump, however many gallons you pump in is what your car drank up, DO not rely on a gas guage. Now with this being said, 34mpg is not out of the realm, depending on if you had a windy tailwind, headwind, crosswind, no wind, flat, slow fast, etc.

Last month I got some new KYB Gas Adjust for the back on my 85 BRAT. I went with them because that was what was on my 83GL wagon and i loved how it rode and handled up but was not all bouncy etc, and not too squishy. I do like the Gas Adjust, but only have Gr-2's on a legacy to compare to, the Gas Adjust is my preference at least on a Brat and GL.

How about just retap it a thread size or two sizes larger than stock, source a new bolt to fit new thread, and enlarge the pulley hole to accept lager bolt. I know the crank is hardened/forged, but a good tap set should do the trick with some cutting oil and time. No need to remove engine, or condensor etc.

that is the heater control valve. there is no fixing it, but it can be replaced. you do not need to remove the heater core to replace it. but you wil have a hard time finding a new one. they pop up every once and a while, usually a 50-60 $ part.

I suggest leave the stock head unit, and replace the speakers with the most high efficient ones possible (efficiency is on the specs of most high end speakers, rated at 1watt per meter etc). The stock speakers are probably somewhere in the 80 DB rating, and you can get some pretty good ones that will rate in the mid to high 90db, even 100+ I am not talking anything on watts here, just the efficiency. The stock headunit and stock amp is far superior longevity life than any pioneer, xxx brand etc. You just need speakers that can turn what watts it does have into good sound. done. the sound will be adequately better. And you will have money for tires. nobody is going to break in to steal your stuff with a stock radio.

I was thinking the helicoil too, or else even cheaper, somewhat fill in the stripped threads with weld, then re-tap the threads.

why, it is cheaper here : http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&_trksid=p5197.c0.m619&item=320664360310&viewitem=&category=50447

replace with a standard hose clamp, they are stainless and you only need to spend a few bucks, only once and it will last forever.

My former 92 SVX got a good consistent 27.5mpg all around. I am pretty sure mine was doing better than some of the reported mileage, as mine was in flawless mechanical repair. They are bult to last, a few on the SVX world network http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/ have more than 300k miles on them. Actually, they have a database logging the higher mileage ones......Subiemech85 has one and it ia\s about to hit the 293k mark on miles, on original engine and trans, but his is a 96. The 92's for sure had 115% failure rate of trans, and wheel bearings. Mine had had the bearings replaced 3 times until they realized the grease the bearings were shipped with were a shipping grease, not a hi temp application grease. Wheel bearing and rotors were known to get issues if overtorque the wheels, and or axles on replacement, Mine also had the trans replaced with a new Subaru trans at miles 57k. If you find a good one with a full service maintenance log, then you know the owner did all they could to repair stuff. If you find them witouth maintenance log, there is a good chance things were neglected, or not, but i would say be careful on buying one.

NOt sure on the plastic intake runners either. Does everyone know what plastic does over time, be it plastic headlight lenses, plastic parts on a turbo engine, etc? It gets like glass in about 10 years time. Guess they build it to throe away anymore after it his 10 years.

Just a quick note to let you guys near Menards know they have Kidde brand Auto/Marine fire extinguishers on sale for 7.99 each and they have a 3.00 each rebate, so final price is only 4.99 after rebate. These are very useful for carrying around in your rig, or to have handy in the shop. I do recommend on older vehicles/cars with so so wiring to carry one, and this is a cheap way that may save it someday. Rebate limit is 2 per household. I got my 2 today, and so should you.

yes it fits.

2.5 = for the ej22t 91-94 turbo ej shold be about 2 1/8 ish for the NA

or this

costs have gone up on shipping over the last year or 2. CA to IA went from 910 in about 2006 CA to IA went to 1086 in Jan 2011 CA to IA in Sept 2011 - now it costs 1,192 from CA. I am certain going from WA to the East coast is even more.

Bad. The stock system is actually proven over and over to pull more cool air in than putting anything else on. You may get more air flow, but it will be hot engine bay heat air. You are best to leave alone. This is argued over and over to no end. The stock system has a fender box which also helps if you are ever in a high water issue as well. Factory does know what they are doing on a Subaru intake.

I am still recovering from the first post of hysterics. Haven't laughed on here like that for a while.

Bilstein won't waste your money, but they will need lots of it. -but shocks are not supposed to rebound on their own. They need a spring, or leaf, or coil for the rebounding/push. Or in the case of a BRAT, torsion bar. the shock is just there to control the motion of the travel, and to dampen it. you have springs right?

any luck or do you have to scrap it.

use permatex ultra gray for the substitute of oil pan gasket. it is what the new ej's use.

I had 4" lift on my 85 BRAT, drove on it almost daily drive like interstates etc, for over 11k miles for 2 years. Handled, cornered well, etc. I did let it do some serious serious off the road stuff about 20 times, about 200 miles on dirt roads. But it did well either. I took it on 900 mile roundtrips out of state, once or twice. I took it on 600 mile roundtrips to KC and back 3 times.

scrap yards are paying 300-500 here now and they come pick the car up, they need a title, then they crush it and sell it for the metals. guess China needs all the metals they can get and so does Japan.

coolant got changed prior. I have owned the car a little over 10 years now, so it was for sure due for coolant change. Fuel system shows no issues, like said it got 600 mile roundtrip getting a hair over 40mpg. Since the car has been "in garage stored. but non heated", didnt think too much about it much. Wouldn't due that on a outside stored car. At one point in the storage for a few years i kept it up on jackstands so i could turn the wheels every so often to check on the brakes to make sure they weren't sticking. No problems there either. Low mileage for sure helps in that the condition is amazing so its not much similar to storing a lot of cars. Hondas are sealed up well if they have low miles.

Bet the one you have that is torn is on the passenger side... The y pipe cat is over there and tends to cook the boots over the years on that side. The oem axles you have are far superior quality than any new replacements you will buy at a discount parts store. Keep your 3, maybe reboot the torn, or replace that single one.....I would suggest just to reboot it and use new grease, and let it be done, save up the money saved for other stuff like ball joints, water pump, hoses, etc...

need to align it with something other than those tires, no way you can check toe with them. New tires followed instantly same hour by an alignment is what you need.