bheinen74

Heated element window going to cost more than 300 just for the glass.

turbo grill, navy rustoleum close enuf for now. Trying to find an on the shelf paint so i can fix rust spots..for cheap. Guess I will keep buying paint til i find a match... badge installed the remnants of the GT AWD or was it GT 4WD badge, does anyone know?

wow, my springs good so far...suspension is tight and like new for ride etc luckily.

Think silver i never even went over the tires or wheels with my wash mit.

teaser

Alternator.

I wanna see a BRAT convertible, er I think......

replaced right fender side bulb and pushed the dent out some. painted my extra turbo grill for the second time first blue was not correct, so i got a rustoleum navy the 2nd try, it is still not right color match but better, installed the Turbo grille anyway. was not nice weather to be out detailing it so nothing yet.

Make sure the shifter is selected to FWD before pulling it up onto the dolly. near impossible to take out of 4wd once the back front wheels are up and the back wheels not. yeah they bind up.....just was thinking back to when this happened to me...

Will need to carry backup HID's in a case, cause they will not last long and will burn out at night...that is a real possibility. I would just go with some good Osram bulbs, and add some Hella's for your needed light output.

You also want to turn the heater temp selector to the hottest setting, this will make certain the Heater core valve is fully open to allow coolant to fill the core too, i think alot of people do forget this and that is how they get air.

Those are probably just badly manufactured tires....get some good tire brand, good Year, Michelin, Pirelli, BF Goodrich, Uniroyal, Yokkohama etc. Put that Kenda on your list to never get again. Also stay away from Douglas and Fuzion. And yet another, i stay away from anything Firestone/Bridgestone due to the fact they knowingly sold defective tires that blew out and caused deaths.....until they were forced to recall them, it was not their own "good deed" to recall, they were literally forced to or close the company///// so they recalled them and could care less about selling death tires. These Kenda, Douglas, Fuzion are actually reject tires of the other companies that did not pass inspection and tests, that is why they are cheap. Gillette used to make a CRAPPY tire too, don't know if they are still around, but they were known to blow out within the first 20 miles, guaranteed. It is what shoddy dealers used to install on traded in cars so they could easily sell them based on the fact it had NEW TIRES.....

Please state you brand model of tires. there are many junk tires on the market, and i do mean MANy. Plus all 4 of your tires need to match on AWD

yeah but covers off means mouse can drag in some walnut and then it is chaos.

DEA will be on this thread due to title ...

Hello Teri Jo.

there was once on ebay a 54 VW van ambulance. now that was cool.

but why all the cost of high priced synthetic oil, just to insure 500k. I have had no problem getting to 250k on regular Castrol........change intervals of 3k. By 250k, the car is used up, rusted, pittied windshield, worn shocks, trans acting up, too rusted to work on. Why would i want a car engine to last any longer than 300k really? I don't get why people pay a premium for the synthetic, when regular will do just as proven good to last the cars shell. Oil change with GTX regular (eithe 5w-30 or 10w30) and a wix filter price : 20.75 Oil change with Synthetic and Wix filter, upwards of 40 bucks. Engine mileage longevity for either over 300k Change interval 3k vs 6k or so..... if you don't drive lots of miles, that is not an issue. I suppose if you are driving 100k a year then synthetic is good. anyone else agree...

yeah was just on FredBeans parts looking for a "GT AWD" rear hatch badge emblem. Not there either......they have all but GT.......and I know it had the emblem cause i can see the imprint of what it was. I may go take a pick and see if pooparu can make a sticker of it.....then slap the sticker over any old badge..... Guess I will give Jason a call. Now, rockauto lists the GT.....so go figure.

guess KBB.com does not agree on Subaru GT Wagon, that model is not available in the pricing, they show L, LS, LSi, and touring, but they DO NOT have GT as a option. I emailed kbb a nastygram.

take covers off to check

I would never take a car over 3500 on oil change. Course, i take mine to over 200k. and over 300k

Simple green to start, and rags. as things get clean, then i stick with simple green and old toothbrush and rags. Alloy Metal stuff can get a small brass bristle brush. I remove the caps for stuff, dipsticks, overflow, etc from the csr and use hot soapy water and a good toothbrush. The black metals once cleaned with the simple green, go really well with Armor All. I sometimes find wd-40 works with a brush and rag as well. Will post another before, and the after will look new in comparison. This one is going to be easier than some. I can't wait to start on it.

going to remove front right fender to see how good I can make the dent disappear tomorrow. got the bulb in for the defrost/cruise backlight, all lights are as they came when new now....used bulbs do work. This car has many dents. I will have to learn the paintless dent removal method, paint is still good for the most part.... going to detail the engine soon as well, so a before and after of that. Interior is immaculate as is.

The weight they recommend is only in a Synthetic right? I would do as they say.......but my own car would be getting castrol gtx 5w-30 regular and some 2500 mile oil and filter change intervals.....