bheinen74

KYB Gas Adjust. I have them o my 85 BRAT love em. Had a set on a 83 GL wagon, loved em. About 36 bucks each on ebay

My dad said he noticed a shutter sound when going into high gear lockup, in my parents 06 Legacy Sedan 2.5 limited, automatic. Car has 45k miles. He drained the ATF, it is BURNT. Mind you people, Iowa is pretty darn flat, my dad is 72 and my mom is 71. They do not drive it past the speed limit. They did not buy the car new, but with only 45k on the ATF, it sure should not be burnt. It is black. I looked at it. I smelled it. Yes it is black yes it smells burnt. Like said, he noticed a shudder sound on high gear lockup, so decided try to drain and refill the ATF, but has no idea it was burnt and black. WTH. Anybody got any answers it would be appreciated. Dad is concerned, and frankly so am I. We both think at that mileage it should not be burnt. My parents purchased the car i think at 35k miles and he did change the spin on ATF filter when he bought the car. My mom does not use the paddle downshift, but my dad does use that auto shift down all the time. I said that may not be good for it, he swears it would not have that function if it wasnt designed to be used. Again, only 45k actual on this one. Driven by my mother mostly, like said they have put maybe 12k on the car or near it since they bought it I am thinking this is bad and will only get worse. He is going to drive it like 15 miles now that it has new Subaru OEM genuine ATF synthetic in it, then he is going to drain and refill for 2 more times. Is there a known issue on this? I thought the Auto's were rock solid..

only problem will be chance of cracking the oil pump. You should read up on how to remove the pump, you want to leave the oil filter on it for a handle to aid removal. DO NOT pry the pump off, it will crack if you do. I learned the hard way.

I was thinking POR 15 might fix that, errrr.. I mean prevent that looks like normal rust failure to me.

really should be a class action suit on this, leaking fuel is not safe by any means.........and subaru is at fault on this one. Do they just not care that leaking gas can spark a fire, or that it is bad for the environment.....to have gas leaking all over the planet? I don't get why there was not a recall on this. Or are they going to pull a BP and say it is the owners fault for the leak.

Really don't think water has anything to do with them getting hairline cracks. None of my cars get water on the engines, but i have pulled some with cracks. I am not one too ever use water under the hood. Kinda like fine stereo equipment, water just doesn't belong near.

Yeah have had similar issues here, also the lower rear lateral link, where it mounts to the subframe, like to seize at the subframe as well. good times, lots of penetrant sprayed in there, and good BFH, vice grips, etc to twist, pull, pound, and it will be messed up beyond recognition. When you reinstall, use sufficient antiseize.

sounds very familiar...and totally uncaring of a potential customer. When they did that to me, I told them i wouldnt be back for parts for my other Subarus, and that I would send my parents elsewhere for their 99 Forester and 06 Legacy, and that I would send my brother elsewhere for his 99 Outback and 02 WRX.

old bump, but Jeep, Audi, and maybe Mercedes would do well as well, but i think they should test the 2012's on this, including the Cadillac, Buick, GM version of SUV, etc, chrysler, BMW, etc. See what has come about in 5 years time. See how Subaru compares to them all...and for heck, throw in what Ford has. I still am biased, knowing that non torque steer Subi will triumph over all but Audi Quattro. PS I did not mention Toyota, cause their AWD is not good. Old school Toy 4WD is goodm but not now.

this has been successfully swapped tonight. Yeah has a metal to metal visible wear mark on the tensioner that we removed from my brothers outback. Went to 1991 style tensioner and the bracket from a 91 Legacy. Good to go now. this whole problem was diagnosed and accessed a while back, by taking off the driver outer belt cover, you could grab the belt and wiggle up and down to duplicate the noise, and so when i looked up the issue, found it is rather common, and it was not a huge rush to fix; the belts and rollers and HG's were replaced in Sep 2010, all but the tensioner..... So before heading into the cold months and working in a non heated garage, the mission was accomplished on this. Lots more miles left on that Outback now. It has never had piston slap or oil or overheat issues...

Wow, i dont think you have the correct amounts it is for sure unlikley it is 6.7 gallons. The most i have ever drained and refilled in a subaru is like 1.4 gallons or therabouts.......... if your book says 6.7 gallons, i am pretty certain it means 6.7 qts.... and you just added way to much if you added a qt of the stuff. does you book also say oil capacity is 4 gallons? i think they did conversion incorrectly.

its preferred not to cross-mix different styles of coolant, and we all know how critical it is to the ej25 to not take chances on cooling system/HG.

Hey, Shawn, can you fill me in or link to the service bulletin... Just doing this to try to quiet a cold start belt slapping the timing cover on my brothers 99 dohc outback that has less then 1.2 years on new t belt kit except for the tensioner. which was compressed correctly.thnx may just replace the tensioner anyhow, but will see...they are quite pricey

too rare and too nice/rustfree to risk rally damage. drag car or show car. I say keep all the bondo on it, just fix/finish the shaping job on it. I once stripped a car of bondo, and in the end, just had to reapply the stuff. In the end, if i would have just added more and finished the body work it would have turned out better than going thru work that someone has already started. You will spend 8 times the labor and time to strip it off, than if you just spend some time to fix/sand, shape what is there already. If there are cracks, then grind the cracks down, but if it is still good leave it alone. Where did you find this car? MO or IA

special lines needed for ATF. same as gas hose. otherwise is swells up and turns to mush.

I've been looking for the bracket, but think i might have left it attached to the block halves i sold last spring. But if that bracket from a ej22 sohc is not going to work on a ej25 dohc, then I will just have to scrap this whole idea....

yeah, and I will agree since you would be looking at Ramsey for dealer neutering.....so what you have is better than going to the DM Subaru dealer for how they neuter everything they touch,

the new style one causes the belt to slap around on the timing belt cover at times.... so need to go to proven old which in my opinion the old style is the better style, and yes cheaper and easier to source for me in the yards.

I would rather throw on old but resurfaced OEM rotors than new junk ones made in China from a aftermarktet brand. I know from experience which ones will last longer, and it is not aftermartket.

Have this style spare tensioner and want to use this style and would like to replace a bad one this style, on a ej25 dohc This is going in the trash. What bracket needs swapped? Any picture of what the bracket is so i can dig in my parts bin thanks

Pretty sure this sort of topic of the thread is not something people out west have to deal with. It is such a common issue here and out to the East Coast. If you live in midewest/rustbelt/NE, please inspect everything from hose clamps up front, to the line connectors as mentioned. It only takes about 5 years here for the hose clamps to rust in 2 pieces that hold the lower radiator hose on. It is a no brainer for me to replace all the lower hose clamps on every winter driven car with the better stainless clamps. Salt is to blame, well driving in the winter over salt.

has anybody installed the newer style "wide path" window squirters on a gen1 legacy, or similar? I loved the way my Baja squirters covered the front window, much better than the way my 94 legacy is. Direct swap? Want to get prepared for winter in my winter rig 94ss soon.

My 93 Loyale clock works. Car doesn't so well, but the clock sure does.

or it could be the beverage of coca cola that got spilled in there. sounds like a good time to remove the shifter console trims, and see if you can clean the electrical thing ,maybe with some windex.