bheinen74

Did you drive with them at night enough to report back how they are doing? Would like some feedback of the useage.

90-94 engineered for better long-term. On online insurance auction sites, and other online places, I see many more 350k plus mile units in that era than later..that tells me they are best for longevity. The only reason they got taken out at 350k is an accident causing too much damage to keep on road, not because of a engine, or mileage issue of things wearing out.

i've got 2 piles stacked pretty high in between my garage studs....someday i am tossing them out to get some stud space back.

personally,i wouldnt put an aftermarket pan on it it, if it is made of steel. Aftermarket metals will rust in a year and you will wish you used oem.

power stuff for the automatic shoulder belts too.

SVX "Crush Mod" is what they term it. But if you have a flare, maybe the brake band or whatever it is called is slight need of adjust.

The flies around here need a shotgun they are that big. At that many miles, your alternator is not going to last much longer for charging. A fine needle end grease gun is probably all it will take to quiet it, its just getting dry and telling you so. Get some lube in it, good to go.

How long do HID's go before burning out? Have any of you had them very long?

I could drive 750 miles straight to Colorado not using cruise and never have it downshift to a 3rd gear not even once, all keeping a perfect steady speed using my foot. Using Cruise, well it was constantly searching like 10-15 times on hills, and coming out of TC lock up etc... silly puters.

try new air filter, they need replaced every 8k around here (bugs/dust/pollen/tree spinners/corn shaft/etc)

could be good info. But whenever you reset the computer by unhooking the battery, it just throw it into learn mode = menas for 3-4 gas tanks your mileage suffers dramatically 18mpg for a while while it figures (or tries to figure) out how to maximize the maf and tps etc....based on how the throttle is opening and closing. Just wait til microsuks is in all our future cars.. I am not sure you are going to see the affects after it has learned it may go back to how it was programmed to handle cruise.... In learning mode, it is not able to pull timing quickly, and that really may be all you are seeing..when it is able to pull timing, it will downshift more abruptly...

maybe if enough people on this board contact KYB directly thru their contact info on their website, and if we ask them to make correct adjustable struts, than they would get my business i would buy a set or 2. right now, KYB does not supply correct front struts. what they have are not adjustable, therefore not a correct fitment. please write kyb everyone and tell them this, take pics and show them what we need. hatchsub, those are not gen 2 brat, not even close to working. the top nut thread is not even the right size, the spring perch is wrong, length etc...

yeah the adapter and ej22 is the solidest part on that BRAT. its a learning platform...but very rusty.

ej18 is great for a ea swap....i would think. great power to weight. should bring a BRAT or other EA vehicle to about 38mpg.

did you forget something? the title says pics...

dunno. parked or...... was busy hauling back a 84 BRAT with ej22 installed but not running and we were hitting side streets due the look of the brat with all the engines and trans in the back.

its in iowa, i have seen a few around this part of the state ugly as sin.

lockout switch enabled maybe/

I saw Mountain Grizzly today. Was going thru Oskaloosa and saw it sitting in a yard.

a shock absorber is just that a single round cylinder, no spring perch a strut, is one that has the spring perch mounted to the shock, welded on. a strut assembly, is the strut, the spring, and the top mount all fastened together ready to bolt into the car/

I have a 85 Brat. The door ajar bulb is most likely burned out or the switch in the jamb is corroded. I have loose connectors under both my seats. They are the side air bag connectors. I also have the other 2 connectors plugged in, those are for the heated setas which get toasty when i press the on swith. I don't think ANY BRAT's came with power steering. I yanked my computer out.....mine was a California spec brat....but i weber'ed it. Mine has AC, but i haven't rehooked it back up after the lift kit...

the front struts have built in adjuster nuts...crank them up the rear has a bolt to adjust the torsion bar force. look in the manual in the glovebox top...

and for real how many gears does it have? I want to see the sticker for gear shift patterns.

He has the stock engine, ea81, with ea71 pistons, Delta Cam, recurved Disty, weber with 155 mains, MSD 6A Ignition, Accel SuperCoil. That ea81 is hooked to a 5speed D/R which then goes to a Samuri box, then off to the diffs. Thing has like 35 gears to choose from when you include shifting the 5 speed andshifting the sammy box as well.... His fabricator, shaped the tubing, then welded it right to the unibody rails of the BRAT. It has a home built tubular frame, all welded to the unibody.. you can sort of see it here where the tubular is welded to the frame rails

doh yeah sorry plunger out making contact.. you could take a sandpaper and clean the contacts.....