bheinen74

what year is the car/engine model? I can get about 9 ecu's from ej22 91-94 legacy's they are around 15 bucks each near my junkyard.... if you want to try that route... otherwise that seems expensive to me on ecu's i bet the wiring, or alternator or something is bad in a splice. don't give up for a while.

I doubt a weber passes any emission test anyplace...as said they are not that kind of carb. better just swap to stock carb to pass, then go weber, or else better just sell it to someone who is in a state without testing. you won't ever pass with that weber. please pay attention on this thread for those in emissions testing areas- your weber is not going to pass..

do you have a roof rack? If so, it could leak where it mounts, then run down along the side panel/side glass into that area of the side and spare tire. Do you have any rust on the lower portion of the trim/back glass?

i could bring down my legacy and we could try to swap known good parts and you could verify wiring under the hood compared to a running ej22t, not sure if that would help. might help in the verifiying of connectors, wiring..

I actually have 2 spares of these now, one off a old gen and one off a mid 90's

If a east coast person sells a Brat, it is usually because it is past its safety point with rust./ie it failed inspection and is a parts BRAT only. You NEED to physically crawl under the BRAT, front and rear, and look at the frame rails and the rockers.

need to keep this thread going........for me.........either order new filter as is, or convert back to stock filter kidney... i can do it. but it may take some time, cause a weber to stock blue kidney filter has not been done. and did you see my pm on your right head breather? cause that was all wrong. did you look intto that . brent beers

i would love to be mechanic in a rust free area, everything is much more cake to work on, no broken bolts, seized stuff, etc... Being in the rust belt, no way i would mechanic as a living due to rusted.

Virginia must salt about like they do here. I just replaced one seized up on a 03 Baja. One side was stuck but i was able to free it up with time, vise grips, time, oil, time, pb blaster, time, oil, time..... But the other side was stuck as in not being able to free up no matter how much i soaked it, even took it out and hit it with a air chisel, slide hammer, etc, nothing, soaked for a week waiting on a new cable the dealer had to order in. New cable for the 03 was 25.xx from the dealer. The outback one cost more for some reason???? Not too bad really, a small bracket holding it to the lower control arm, and then take apart the center console, slit the rear carpet over the hump and a couple bolts holding the clamp down on the end, then slip the end off. Pushed the rubber seal down, cable out, new one in. -if yours is sticking, you will be able to tell by the hand on the center hub after a short drive. Both mine were toasty warm when it was dragging. Mine were stuck enough the brake wouldnt come on to hold the car, it was seized stuck, and wouldnt release enough on its own on the other side and dragged.

a few off my head are: vanagon w beetle 32 ford-yeah the guy at subaru heaven has this Brat trike buggyroo the bed or trunk of most anything to haul home. are you talking about a ej18, ej22, ej20, ej25, etc impreza had many engines, i think even some places got a ej16.

I have had mine superglued there over 12k miles no issues. when i ditch this filter for new i will reglue the old foam and use it again. I am due for a new filter. I also wish i could put the stock aircleaner onto the weber, for a stock look.

there are always free fridges, washers/driers, stoves, on craigslist in the for sale/ free section.

worn out shocks will cause cupping. Did you replace the shocks yet? If not, no matter how many alignments, new tires you get, they will cup again, until you install new shocks up front.

this is the fix

I have the tall filter assembly and the filter would basically collapse inward deform shape and not sit tight. I trimmed up some packing foam stuff (like computers are shipped with) and then glued it to the inside of the filter so it is being pressed outward on the housing and no problems with it for 12k miles.

This is sort of a catch22 scenario. 1.The cost of having someone cut a car up, 2. then the cost of shipping the part, 3.then the cost of a bodyshop to weld it in, 4. then the cost of repaint of the car to seal it up good, is going to be more than 5. buying an entire rust free west coast/southwest desert car. you can do the math but pretty sure its cheaper to buy one already rust free.

1

umm, that is all wrong. my blue arrow is pointing to what? a filter? that line needs to cross over and tie into the left head breather hose, and also t into the pcv. there is a diagram on here of pcv flow, and that head needs air being pulled out of it circulating to the left head....please look it up. if you dont do it rightm you will possibly blow the motor up as others have done when not doing this correctly.

yes he had the front adjusted all the way low on the adjustabe strut perches. there are 2 nuts on the spring bottom, turn them the other way you will raise fronts. pb blast the nuts first for a few days

pretty sure hp ...

nice update....post pics and keep it going. pretty sure the guys driveway contributed to the strut rod failure

that highway to h##l had some steep hills involved. NICE right hand drive ...

to do it with riveting. place the patch metal behind the original cars metal drill holes thru both, pop rivet in place. Then you need to get the rivets recessed, so give them a whack down with a ballpeen hammer to smash the metal down some to allow for a topcoat of filler, bondo etc. - i do recommend a sealer between the seams to prevent moisture from occurring over time.

it is pretty.

at least i can follow info on 360 on the usmb. the 360club won't allow me to join, even though i am interested in buying one and wanted solid advice. has anyone else tried to join recently? did you get the same message?