bheinen74

Thanks Shawn. I painted the spoiler and fender in my basement, bumper I used the bathroom. I am for sure not a pro, but decent enough, and this car deserved to be brought back on the road and not crushed or parted out. I do highly recommend the following for spray paint: http://www.paintscratch.com/ My first paint got mixed at the nearest Oreilly, verdict they suck at matching. So then i went online and found the above place and read the testimonials on the site about how well it matches. Very happy, I may order another can so i can redo the bumper, but since i am selling it, probably just let it be.

I don't trust the accuracy on the cheap ones. I use Snap-On and MAC, clickers. I also have a old snap on with a needle dial on it. There are some reports out there showing accuracy, you cannot trust the cheap manufactured specs, need to do real world tests, not a company claims.

You've got a Turbo BRAT right?

pics mostly done. Bumper paint didnt match so i reordered from a different place for the fender and spoiler. They match lots better. again mostly done. going to ask 3k for it but it will come with 02WRX alloys / tires, and i am keeping the stock xhaust it will be swapped with my other SS xhaust.

Nipper. Right on. Why is the foreign market not seeing Hg issues? We have it here, why no there? made in usa for here, vs made in japan for there perhaps?

Kinda a related note didn't think a new thread is needed, but I have come across many newer accident Subarus in which the air bag has not deployed. -example one.- My brothers 99 Outback deer hit, it smashed the radiator back into the timing cover enough to jump time and bend the AC tensioner, but no airbags deployed -example two-my Dads 98 Forester, front hit no arbags deployed. -Lots of various other builders that i have seen hit in front hard and no airbags gone off -nhtsa search Subaru list of complaints there are issues of this as well. Subaru must have addressed the tow hook bump issue and made them nearly impossible to explode at some production date.

+100,000,000,000 on OEM (original equipment manufacturer) parts, only available from the Subaru dealers. Others have, and will fail and be a bad choice.

In past experience in the automotive world of "new" alternators, a high percentage are bad even when new. The only way to avoid this is to buy OEM from the dealer. There is a reason new from dealer are 200 bucks and new from autocrap are 65. You get what you pay for. Better to go to junkyard and get low milage unit.

If you want that car to run right, you will stick with OEM wires, and NGK plugs. Same if you go change out the o2, stick with OEM (if you want the car to perform correctly) If you don't care, then go to autozone and put on the crappy aftermarket stuff. Lots of threads on here about the tune up topics. Subarus, because of the wasted spark design, are very picky when it comes to ignition. Please get a new Timing belt installed, or you will destroy your valves when it snaps. That "belt squeel" you hear at startup, could be the T belt slipping, or it could be the alternator belt. But for sure, you are due for the T belt, the next time you start it could just snap. Keep at it, but read up here before you just go throw on some parts from a autozone or oreilly, etc.

old thread yes. Are you really serious about the tsb? But when my knee or foot hurts and I go to a doctor, they don't saw my leg off to fix that hurt. Subaru should have addressed the buggy computer, unfit sensors, etc, and not saw off the toe hook. How can you tow a car or haul it on a hauler if the tow hooks are gone? Subaru needs to spend more time in research and engineering, especially the new stuff they claim to make. This is ridiculous. And the pdf at no point advises them to apply rust proof paint after they hack off the hook. WOW i am shocked, they could care less of a fix that will cause rust with bare metal. All I ask is that the Subaru engineers do a better job in the new models than has been occurring. brent

Yes, watch out for shade tree stores like "Brakes Plus" and Midas. Those places have been documented on nightline, 20/20, etc shows as being crooked. They have a box of worn thru rotors and pads strictly to scare people into buying something. And of course, in the end, you ask for your old parts back, WELL guess what, the nightline show had marked/stamped the old parts, and what they got back was not stamped. Basically, they had new parts on the car, MARKED, and went in for inspection, and was told they needed new brakes. they asked for old parts back, paid the 450 dollar service fees, and got ripped off. Go back to the shows shop, pull off the "new" parts from Brakes Plus, and they are still stamped with their own marking from before.-NO new parts......lots of places like that around.

Most all of members over there consider motors will be done and blown at 150k, and they just rebuild them. The members we have on here would like o think they are just at the half life at that mileage, but the ej25d can be junk by 150k, just another boat anchor.

A 98-2002 Forester with a good engine is really a nice driving nimble car with tons of room. Its just hard to find a good engine in one, anywhere. That can tell you the engine was not the best to begin with. Lots of good information. Pretty much every Forester i have come across is either "Bad Engine" in the yard, or in need of headgaskets on a lot, to be good. I don't care for the new ones they got too Huge. The pre 2007 are about right sized, but I cannot justify the hefty prices they bring knowing they need an engine sometime down the road.

^ | Shake much at speed?

The 98-2002 are nice years of Foresters. My dad has a 98 and he had to completely redo the headgaskets, as well as repair wrecked damage. Even though the car only cost 500 to buy (wrecked) he has another 2+ G into it in parts, 525 just for HG stuff/Tbelt, oulleys, cam seals etc, and the other is used panels, paint, misc. While looking for parts for his 98 at the yards, one yard had 4 Foresters lined up, mostly 98 and 99. All 4 at that place had written "Bad engine" on the windshields. Another yard, had just one, and it had "bad engine", and we finally found a 01 Forester in a pick n pull, and the engine was pulled from it. So, out of 6 or so we have come across, all have had bad engines. Hard to find one selling even on Craigs that actually has a nice engine, and even if the HG have said to been redone, how do you know they were done right and with OEM stuff. I see car lots advertising them for 4-5 G all the time, and i would put good money on it that those even had bubbles in the overflow. "she's looking to spend no more then $2,000 for a 1999 and I told her that's not going to happen for a loong while. Most seem to still be priced in the $3500-4200 range." If your mom only wants to spend 2G, I am pretty sure you are going to be out of luck on getting a good one. In my opinion, if the HG is found to be bad, the top price a seller should sell for is 1500, but instead like you found, they are in the 3500 to 4200 range, around here its more 4-5g range, and for sure i have looked at some and the overflow is bubbling right off that bat.

-NO. That is not even correct. Turbo ea81, turbo ea82, and for sure the 91-94ej22t turbo were non-interference.

the 91-94 Turbo Legacy trans is metal. I confirm that. Not sure why the non-turbos of that era would be any different at all. Its a fine mesh metal. If you replace it, go with a Subaru OEM because if what you are finding is made different, it may harm something.

The filter just inside the pan, is not paper, it is a metal screen. I have never seen one that needed cleaned. You will probably just need to remove the drain plug, and wipe off all the flakes of junk on the plug. Drain, refill with how much you took out. Measure into jug how much you drained. If you do mess with the filter, you will need to go get a o-ring cause it will be shot. It not really the easiest thing to remove if you go that route, but you will see it is not dirty and its just more a hassle to even mess with that.

Great. This should improve gas mileage for you just a little too. Awesome.

first off how many miles on the bearing grinder? theyvusually get noisy sometime after 165k miles

please check back in here and post how the fix is resolved...thanks

My dad has always been complaining the AM part of the stock radio on his 06 Legacy limited is staticy. He says FM is fine. I think its just a Subaru thing, AM radio sucks on a Subaru. Anyone else here confirm either way. What can he do? My dad is 72 and he will not be able to replace with anything other than stock, he cannot hit the small buttons on the good stuff he barely know how to use this one, the push in volume knob he always has fader, treble bass all messed up cause he doesnt know what he is doing. On his old Audi 100 ls, the radio was german, and the dial was backwards, so turn the tune nob left, the dial went right. So he turned the radio upside down, he about got divorced on that. Lets just say others have AM problem, I can tell him to trade the car or something if that happens. thanks

no tpms will set off a code. Having a present code that does not clear, can affect alot.

all the newer ones can have some issues. While this board is by far the superior message board, you will want to spend some time over on http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/ and read up. steering shimmy, SHAKERS, handling, poor heat, moisture, roof rack issues, headlights burning out prematurely, bad tires, bad shocks, bearings, unsafe engine dying when pulling to stopsigns, cvt shift issues, paint issues, etc etc etc, etc all the topics you need are there.

lots of other cars actually use more than a toothpick type clip to hold the rubbers into the door. - Subaru needs to design these better. Wax the door jambs so they are smooth. Applying silicone and conditioner does help, but the whole design is partly to blame, of those ridiculously small and flimsy poorly designed clips.