Durania

I give everyone with alternator issues the same lecture. Do not put off replacing it. It is not worth putting off and getting stuck on the side of the road, believe me, I've been there. It takes 5 minutes to change an alternator and is a good learning experience.

At least you have something substantial. Winters here consist of drizzle and overcast, I am about ready to move to the damn beach.

Wish I had his job.

Figured I would continue upon an already existing thread instead of creating a new one. I had a dream last night where I went to a guy's house for BRAT parts and walked out back and there sat a perfect red XT6. Guy said I could have it if I could get it running and out of his yard. Pulled the BRAT around back, jumped it off and away I went.

In my case, where and idiot decided to do the "gasket at home" fix, it was. Of course, your case may vary. Have a look at a previous thread of mine for reference. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=81092&highlight=intake+manifold+gasket+failure

I had a violent shaking action when my intake manifold gaskets decided to put in for a transfer. You can feel around the base of the manifold to see if it pulls a vacuum.

That is the motor's identification number, it is it's own separate entity.

We broke 2, 1/2'' sockets. I ended up taking it to a friend of the family that owns a few semi trucks and using his 1 inch drive to break it loose.

Driver's side under the windshield attached to the dash, driver's side door jam, and on the left hand side of the firewall.

Impact sockets were utilized, that's how bloody tight the sucker was.

Chattanooga has emission standards?

Good idea, could be U-joint on it's way out.

Did you check and see if the wheel moved when grabbed at the top and bottom?

It is great if your bolts aren't rusted on. I spent 3 hours one night trying to get an axle nut off, broke all kinds of sockets. Next day after nut was off, finally made it to the camber bolt and it was rusted on so I ended up breaking another 19mm on it. I bought a stupid autozone axle and it clicks when turning sharp, should have bought a Subaru one. I found a chainsaw file is good for knocking the roll pin out if you don't have access to a punch.

Check out this section: http://www.subaru.jp/about/gallery/wallpaper/bow/index.html

First step would be to start taking the keys out of the ignition, have you done that? Second step, locking doors after you take keys out of ignition. Third step, hiding any items that might appeal valuable to a criminal. Ex: CD's, Tools, if an after-market radio, taking the faceplate off and putting it in glove box. Fourth step, stay away from bar for awhile, and drink at home.

I remember seeing that on a "craziest videos stuff caught on tape show". Pretty wicked wreck.

Just take the battery back. I have found that batteries can have bad batches just like everything else. Most places won't give you too much crap about taking it back.

Don't drive too far from home after you charge battery up or you will end up calling tow truck, I've been there. It takes just a matter of minutes to change an alternator.

The search button is your most valuable friend. The motor you have is an EA82T. I am pointing you in the right direction with half the work already done for you. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/search.php?searchid=533519&pp=50&page=2 It is a VF7 so you can go from there with your searchings.

Probably would have been better to just start a new thread and describe your problem instead of digging another one up. Other than that, welcome to the board.

Yeah I know. I am sick and tired of going out 30 minutes early on morning to let the old girl warm up. Main reason I have been driving Legacy. I replaced the thermostat with OEM and that helped a little bit but I think it all boils down to the fan running constantly. It was rigged up to a stupid blue ricer switch so it could be fast and furious but that dang thing quit working. Keep the advice coming guys. Thanks.

+3 Doesn't most American cars utilize the pull back and click high beams? I think that is what he was expecting.

My Brat is currently set up to have the fan on whenever the key is turned. It is great in the summer time except in the winter I can not seem to get my BRAT warm enough to where it shoud be running. My white brat still has the thermoswitch on it, how do I install it back into normal working conditions on my blue BRAT? Kyle.

You got it. Mine would be running fine then when you would tap on it, the car would start sputtering.