jono

OK, thanks for the replies guys. Roger, if you had not used a few technical terms I may not have believed you ! When I was being instructed on thread cutting in school, all we had was mild steel - alloy was only in the theory boooks and yet to appear in our GM and Ford vehicles and the teacher drove a mini panel van as seen in the Heartbeat TV series I actually developed the theory if cutting threads in alloy don't turn back as taught with mild steel and got a better result. I will give the next job some CRC556 or WD40 under sufferance and see how I go - job is waiting for me now, up on stands, an exhaust stud on an EA81 head. I don't have any loctite green stuff and wonder if any loctite threadlocker can withstand exhaust temps ? I have done recoil/ helicoils for years and mostly success and without any thread locker goo at all, but is good to know others have similar success - just that once in a while someone comes up with the hardened larger inserts were superior. They are not as readily available as the coil repair brands.. See if I can remember timesert and threadsert names for future trials

I'm curious as to others preference for thread repairs to our old girls alloy components. I uses a brand Recoil which is similar concept to Helicoil brand. In addition to the preferences, can you add a brief description as to how you carry the repair out please ? the coil repair method involves drilling out the damaged thread with larger diameter drill bit, using supplied thread tap to rethread hole, then wind in a coil spring like looking thread insert that has an internal and external thread. They are usually only able to be threaded in and not backwards and out if you stuff something up. Over the years have seen others quote a repair that is a more solid (hardened? insert that I can only imagine requires a much larger diameter drilled out hole, larger tap to suit and this is where hole centre accuracy might drift off in my mind. I did a non Sube alloy recoil repair the other day and was not happy with the thread the supplied tap cut into the alloy, looked more torn than cut ,but is holding at the moment pics would be good if can do

might not be serious, what if you try securing dipstick so it can't pop out and take it on another test drive. More modern auto trans sometimes have dipstick tube delete for similar reasons and keep servicing more in house and less DIY

OK. Having swapped EA81 Y pipe out on an EA81 and replaced it with an EA82 Y pipe - everything in the securing stud centres, gaskets lines up. Having then swapped the EA81 engine out and dropped an EA82 with a pair of turbo heads slapped on (so mpfi) still the exhaust stud centres were fine in mounting up. With all this experience can safely say EA81 carb, EA82 carb and EA82T exhaust ports all use the same centre to centre measure , even though if I recall correctly the EA82T exhaust uses the opposing set of holes to bolt up than the NA. All my gaskets that are 90mm centre to centre are from Subaru gasket kits, or supplied as for EA series vehicles I am wondering where the 90mm gasket is used - thinking it can only be the centre pipe to muffler pipe but find it odd as never ordered or replaced said gasket yet have so many. Also got some that are not the 90mm, nor the std 76mm but were purchased as for EA series to hoard for when required. Just measured at the gasket face of an EA82T mpfi head @ ~ 49, 50 mm - now curious about others in the EA series? Remonds me how I bought a widey Ford rim as a spare, and years later when got use it discover it was GM stud pattern

another vernier that is useless without battery - unless you are happy with rough centimetre figures I recently paid good money at a tool shop for similar and not amused to find must read the screen

those flat orange O rings get reused from time to time with silastic /silicone sealant. The crank out of a 3/84 compliance plate sedan of mine that was auto incidentally, did not have one, or room for one !I may have just sealed it up for god luck when a flywheel went on , and if it has failed, may be reason for a nasty clutch issue that has developed sometimes clutch is nice on take off - other times is a shuddering cow of a thing, massive shuddering !

is it just me or does everyone else seem to build up a collection of what seem like useless exhaust gaskets? Again just sorting through my sets looking for the correct set using an EA82T head vacationing in the bathroom. The correct centre to centre of the studs for the head to Y pipe of NA & turbo EA81 and EA82 looks to be 76mm I have these gaskets with ~90mm stud centres and 58mm hole that look to be of factory graphite with metal fire ring. A thought is these may be for muffler to tailpipe. The increasing number of these gaskets over the years and me not recall ever fitting a gasket here may be a clue. Also got these nice metal ones that I just measured up - 82mm centres for studs and differing hole size for the exhaust to pass through - sourced from Rock - totally useless for intended purpose - may as well send them back - without postage paid !!

mmm....thanks for the comments ...I do have a brake booster hose from EA82 turbo XT that has a yellow sticker warning to only use genuine part or the like, has a valve inserted safely out of reach inside. Planning to use it ...when I finally EA82T my Brumby. I also have the EA82/ L Series vacuum doo dad white plastic cannister thingy from what not sure, NA or turbo so will investigate its origins

a question sometimes seen when people say they are about to or have machine loads off decks and heads of belt driven OHC How do you propose to deal with the slack forced upon the timing belt in the flat, straight run. Sure, the tensioner takes up the slack on the other side of the belt but what about where a belt is a certain fixed spacing in the teeth and you go chop out some of its metal holding cam and crank wheels apart ?

for those of you having converted NA to turbo - did youse include some sort of turbo specific brake booster non return valve to save the diaphragm getting blasted the wrong way or isolate the boost from blowing out dash vent vacuum controls ?

yep, those odd holes are normal from what i recall about EA82 heads I have had. Can I say do yourself a favour and give the thing a 100,000 mile service. Throw in some fuel cleaner first and run it through, then renew fuel filter. Unless...previous owner did all that stuff to make it easier to sell but from my experience, most sellers are pretty thrifty in doing anything that involves time or money. One major knockback of work from a workshop used to be " we're gonna sell it soon - no point" Then you see the end result at a car yard being sold as a nice clean pre-loved beast ooh, my sides hurt. See if it still plays up once it has had some fuel cleaner, new air, oil and fuel filter, new plugs , leads and cap n rotor. A new timing belt kit might do wonders too, then some oil seal conditioner if you believe in it

unless you drive in esrever all over the place I'd bet it could be the front crank oil seal or the oil pressure switch

how many vacuum ports and devices have you got to deal with ? I think mine are very minimal such as for the vac advance and not much more from memory ??

you may get steered in the wrong tangental direction asking in here. Can I offer you a coupla full stops and comma's to use in your posts? , maybe even use the "enter" or "return" key at the end of the line a s d f g h j k l ; ' a few times ? Is bloody hard to digest what you are writing I may be guilty of leading you ashtray too if I don't say - you have already found one problem - no power to the fuel pump. OK ? Fix that first. Either get someone who can do it safely or do it yourself. Pump needs pos power and neg grounding to run. Rig that up temporarily even if just a power supply from your cig lighter socket if that works. This similar sounding problem has happened to others and they have replaced, or bypassed the unit I mentioned in the post above. Can be confusing to understand due to the number of wires going into and out of it You say when it is left more than a day or two, it takes a lot of cranking to start - this may go against the starting fluid working, may not either. Just what starting fluid do you use?

pics would be appreciated no matter quality, and sure others may be interested thanks

OK, thanks, fore warned is fore armed ! So, looks like someone has done this ..... I may be pulling an engine from an EA81 soon to dispose of the rust riddled body, so may be god chance to test fit in just to see

the little black box up under the dash ? It is a fuel pump power supply kill in case of what IGN ON, engine not running state I used to think like skishop and the white or yellow coloured weak spark - been proven wrong twice when some other no go cause been sorted and tiny yellow spark fires up the old beasts like nothing else. How bout you tell us how long, time and distance you have run this car. What have you replaced recently and what did you do just before it stopped running like a dream. You say has spark yet won't run on starter fluid. Did you wet the plugs with starter fluid. Wet plugs dont like to spark

thanks for your comments guys. No videos - you are lucky I can post a photo The sound of the twins is drowned out by the air box and vapour feed system needed to run.But, I tell you when these twin ran wetrol (wet fuel you know as gasoline as opposed to dry gaseous fuel propane) air filter off, getting induction in stereo, lock up the secondaries so I had a quad throttle quadrazontal - ma.a.a.a.n !! Buuut, having recently sampled a spider inlet on my twin port EA82 there is going to have to be a engine swap and have a single range AWD box to sample as well pic at end of thread http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/156853-ea82-log-style-tb-grafted-to-xt-spider-manifold/

change title of post or start a new one in case gearbox dudes dont read it coz it says clutch 2c

any way to check the spark? a weak spark might not ignite fuel so well, so wont burn nice and look like it is too rich. Did the new weber get the old webers jets?

all plugs are sooty black? Sort of makes think run too rich or not sparking right on all pots, maybe coil lead or inside coil tower - corrosion ? Can understand your panic. Is there an EGR or some sort of reburn function on inlet manifold ? dodgy PCV valve ?

shows an old part package with what must be Japanese characters

I am gonna do it - fit EA82T in my Brumby. Got all the bits already tested for reliability in my GLTA donor car An added question if you go EJ is what transmission EA or EJ and how, need to change exhaust, do something with radiator etc etc. EA radiator works with EA82T so the gearboxes bit easier to adapt than EJ stuff

as for the second question in your post - here is a link to a unit made for points and OEM electronic ignitions http://www.pertronix.com/prod/ig/drl/default.aspx

looking at parts list, the 400 is from 88,89 and 90 RX & other 4WD turbo stuff sedan, wagon ? The other number does not list in the 20 different ECU numbers !! Is your 400 and mates 400 a L series mounting type or the XT type with long mounting brackets ? black or gold finish ?