Manarius

Torque bind, are those the stock head gaskets, mismatching tires, AT fluid color/smell, oil color, what's in the reservoir tank (is it clean and green?), Do all the accessories work correctly (unless advertised otherwise), cold A/C, working vents/defrost, working rear defrost, working power seats, timing belt ever been replaced and when That's an awful lot of money for a car with over 200k miles. I think it should be worth closer to 2500-3000 for that many miles (maybe even less depending on the condition of the body)

The Solenoid and the Starter are basically one piece (but can be separated). I think your starter/solenoid is shot and you have/had a worn out alternator. Clicking is almost always indicative of solenoid issues which means that the contacts are shot and they need replaced. I doubt you have any other electrical problem aside from this. Upon further review, I think nipper is exactly right - the solenoid is shorting out. I bet there's arcing in there like nobody's business. Either way, the starter/solenoid needs replaced. This a $120 part w/ one hour of labor :-/

The RS brakes probably are. I doubt the SVX calipers are though.

2-5 minutes isn't enough. One can either play the battery dance (what you attempted to do) by pulling the negative terminal for 30-45 minutes or pull the ECU fuse for 30-45 minutes. After that, put the car into neutral or park, turn off ALL accessories and start the car. DO NOT TOUCH THE GAS! Let it run for 10 minutes or until it gets to normal operating temperature. Once one of those two happens, turn off the car. The ECU has been reset at this point and the car is driveable. I would reset the ECU first before you go and replace any more parts.

All 90-94 Legacies have 4-wheel disc brakes. Perhaps it's a dragging ebrake or rust on the disc.

Have you reset the ECU after you installed each of these new sensors?

Are they the exact same make (JECS)? The 90-91 ECU's are VERY temperamental.

I'd get a JECS MAF from another 90-91 Legacy, not one from a 96 Outback - that makes a big difference. Before that though try to clean the 1990 MAF with some rubbing alcohol and a Q-Tip (Be gentle about it). If that doesn't do it, I'd go with either a vacuum hose knocked loose or off completely, acting up TPS sensor (just clean it), or a plugged up PCV system.

It's known to increase leaks and emptiness of your wallet. It's not a good idea just to randomly swap to synthetic oil after your car has run thousands and thousands of miles on Dino.

Any universal hitch will work and you don't need to waste money on synthetic oil.

TomSVX does swaps for people on the Eastern Seaboard for around the $1500-$2000 range, I think.

My dad paid $150 (I think) for a drawtite one several years ago. So, assuming that the hitch is in good condition, that's a decent price.

1600lb is a lot of weight to be towing - especially if you have AWD.

The transmission issues are not so common on the FWD versions of the 4EAT. Is that cost right? Barring any major issues, I think it is. Can one swap tranny? Yes. Cost? 1000-2000 depending on the cost of parts and labor. Is the bearing issue fixed if you use a Legacy bearing? No. The issue is fixed when you use correct grease. Can you swap Legacy rotors and calibers? Rotors: No. The bolt pattern isn't correct. And calipers? Wouldn't bother - they're not as good as the SVX ones. Further information can be found at http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum

My vote goes to using a big mallet as well.

What exactly was wrong with the 00-03 design? I personally like that design.

You could make it fit, but it probably wouldn't look right. Also, I doubt the holes match up correctly.

Why FHI? Why? Why do they like that design!? It looks like %*^#!!!

Is it an engine lurch? Ie, when you put the gas on slightly, does the engine bump up significantly in RPM? Would you describe it as more of a clunk (like a crappy shifting Auto) or more of a bang (like the engine shaking)?

Stick a piece of black network cable (about 12" long) between the pieces of the door gasket near the mirror. That should get rid of it. If it doesn't, you probably have the mirror gusset issue (search).

It doesn't really matter anyways, just put the crank pulley back on and check if it fires up. If it won't go or runs like hell, it's a tooth off. Remember, it's a 95 - no interference.

Actually no. You'll burn the clutchpacks by using the FWD fuse. It's been covered many times.

I would assume, because most Subarus are like Legos, that the parts would swap right over directly. The problem lies in that you'd probably have to source Legacy parts from a Legacy of the same "generation" of your Impreza or older.

I don't know if 99 2.2's have MAF's but you're describing MAF issues.

I didn't think about the brake booster idea, but that's a rather understandable explanation. Either way, I just flip into neutral when I'm stopped for longer than a second or two and have no problems.