johnceggleston

is this a subaru part or will any kind do? thanks for the replys.

i was swapping out the drivers front axle on my 2.2L GT wagon yesterday and i put a little tear in the ball joint rubber boot. it has a snap ring on it so apparently it's removable. can i buy just the boot? i'm not looking forward to removing the pinch bolt and ball joint. thanks, john

this is a great parts look up site, save it now. used on ej22 and 25 engines, probably 18s too, 806786030, item #10 here: http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b11/type_45/engine/cylinder_block/illustration_1/ click on 'usage' under legacy here: http://opposedforces.com/parts/info/806786030/

are the plug configurations the same? could you just swap in an ej22 ecu with the engine? at some point the impreza came with a 22 or 18, i can't imagine the wiring was very different.

the slide pins in a 96 leg L are threaded, one threaded pin one bolt. the pin has flat spots on it for a wrench. i can't remember if it's front or rear, but the fronts would be different than outback. i'm surprised they don't thread in.

welcome aboard, tell us about your car, miles condition, etc. the wiring should be there so adding the tach should be easy. probably the same as a legacy, but you'll need to check. you can post a 'wanted' add in the classifieds here, someone should have one. it might be a little easier just to replace the whole instrument cluster, but your mileage wouldn't match the the new odometer.

8 nuts & bolts, 12mm, 4 each end. you have to remove the heat sheild to get to it i think, ~4 more bolts. you can probably work around the exhaust. leave the front section in or you lose the trans fluid.

will the mystery engine please sign in? ej22 swap?

you can get a 2.2L engine for 750 or less (way less in some places) and have it installed for 500 - 700. probably new t-belt and seals included. 95 - 98 2.2L w/ egr (auto trans) will work.

typically, cars will pull much more than they can safely stop. if it's heavy get electric brakes, if it's often get a trans fluid cooler ( a/t only).

used on virtualy every engine subaru has made since 1993, and beyond. #8 806931020 http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b11/type_6/engine/cylinder_block/illustration_1/ great parts look up site, bookmark it.

you would need a tire 22% larger. these sizes will get you very close, if they exist: 205/85/14 215/75/15 195/75/16 (or 185/80/16) with stock outback, 205/70/15, you'd be going about 52 mph. but will an ea81 have the power to push those tires?

i completely overlooked the transfer clutch.

you can remove the rear section of drive shaft, not the front section. the front section slips into the rear of the trans and creates a seal that keeps the trans fluid in the trans. i have wondered if you could just use the very first piece of the front section that slips in and drill it and pin it like an axle shaft, but i've never heard of any one doing it. the front section is usually the part that causes problems. you need to find out what's making the noise. since it went away in FWD it's limited to the drive shaft, likely,... rear diff, unlikley,... axles, possible, or wheel bearings, possible.

trans is toast, any 2.5L trans 96 - 98 will work. how much do they want for the car, how many miles?? is it clean, any rust? pics?

if i understand you right, either the clutch slipped for the entire tow or the engine turned over backwards. that's if the front wheels were down and it was pulled backwards. also front wheels turning and back wheels not would screw up the viscous coupling, awd unit. if it was pointing frontwards, it still screwed up the VC, but the engine probably didn't turn over. so the list of possibly damaged stuff: VC clutch engine bearings? engine rings? who on earth would tow a car in gear.? how far was it towed?

it's easy put the key in the ignition and turn it a little, not even to the first click. then you need a long probe with a 90* bend on the end about 1/4" long, an ice pick wtit a crook on the end would be perfect. on either the front or back side, probably the back, hard to see side, there is a 1/8" round flush pin press that in and pull on the key, the cylinder will slide right out. i assume you have already removed the plastic covers. good luck. aren't you glad you asked!!

oh yeah, i used a hammer and chisel / punch to slowly back out the screws, read about it in my haynes manual i think.

why are you removing the ignition assembly.? you don't have to unbolt it to remove the key lock cylinder. what's wrong with the car? when i did it, i bought new 'snap bolts'. in hind site i should have just used regular bolts with hex heads. if they want to steal it they will, snap bolts aren't going stop them.

it sounds like a fair amount of work since i'm not too familiar, but it they come "pre packaged" i can probably handle it. thanks.

any progress on this repair?

i want to add to my "heated" accessories switches so they go off with the car and do not come back on with the car unless re-activated manually, like the cruise control. i want to put it on my rear defrost, heated mirror and seats. i'm sure i'll need a relay but i need one that will keep the switch on only as long as it has power, then default to off. what kind of relay? hard to do? safe to do? what do you call it? what parts would you need? another option might be to add a timer to the circuit, on for 5 minutes or what ever. thanks, john

i'm not worried about assembly, i'm not planning on trying that for a while, maybe next winter. but when you look at a 2.5L engine in the car, do these 'new' tabs stick up or down.

in the pic above, on the new style there are 'tabs' that aren't on the old that stick out from the edge of the head. look at the corners, and the other end of the oblong openings, on the right side of the new gasket. my only question is are those tabs on the top side or bottom of the engine when assembled.

do you have a harbor freight near by? http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=92699