johnceggleston

maybe the change took place a year or 2 later, just don't discard the old receivers until you are sure they work. the leather seats i put in my 97 gt need the be swapped. but i don't remember the year, may have been 99.

yes, bolt right in. but you will have to swap the front seat belt receivers from the 96 seats onto the 97 seats.

on a auto trans thje parts are only 200$ vor so, and you can do from under the car in the driveway. the shop i used charged about 300$ to swap the extention housing. i don't know about manual trans, but before i spent 500$ on a new part for a old trans, i'd look for a good used trans. swapping them is a job, but very straight forward. (i paid about 500$ for a swap.) when was the last time you did your clutch? is it due?

given the dealer / mechanic limitations you apparently face, i'd be pro active. do all the maintenance when due or earlier. do it your self if you can. read here for tips on things to avoid or 'must do things' and must do methods. almost any mechanic can change a spark plug, flush a trans and replace brake pads, you just want to avoid being in the situation where your trans is broken or your head gaskets are blown and you have to get it fixed right away. timing belts may be a challenge, but if you give them a very specific list of what you want done and not rely on their knowledge or lack of it regarding subarus, you may be ok.

could you explain this a little more. my understanding was that the speed differential causes the viscous fluid to heat up and thicken? then causing the rear to engage. with no load on the rear it seems it would be less wear than with the drive shaft in. but i don't know that much about manual trans.

since you just installed them i'm sure you would have noticed if there were 2 wiring plugs under the driver seat. the second one would be for heat. some do. the passenger in my 97 only had one plug under it. for the heat, no seat belt warning connector.

you're selling your car. what are you going to buy / drive?????

did you have to swap the seat belt clip / receiver from the 95 seats.?

it's a manual, no duty c...... ooops. will this work on a manual?? seems like it would.

make model trans miles of car???

edit : no (was yes), see below

i've never touched an forester, but on a legacy 95 - 99 there are rubber plugs already installed for inside rail access making the hitch install possible. usually the hitch maker knows this and supplies the correct parts for the job. is the forester that much different??

how sure are you that the 96 trans is an outback.? whats the number on the bell housing at the starter? does it have two 2s in it or only one? a 96 outback will be TZ102Z2ABA. a legacy L will be TZ102ZABAA, or something close. the last 3 characters don't mean much. have you tried driving it in tight circles at slow speeds to rule out torque bind.?

if your outback is a 5speed and you put in a 2.2, no problem, just wind it out a little more brfore you shift. if it's an auto you may notice a little differencr but not much. if you want to put some of the power back in itwhen pulling a heavy load a couple of times a year, get a second set of wheels and put on legacy L size tires, this will increase your power ratio by about 8% or so.

i can get 40 miles out of a gal. if the last 15 miles are down hill.

first, since the key works the door but only has trouble with the ignition, use a spare key to lock and un lock the door and leave the key in the ignition, turned a little bit so it won't lock. in other words, the next time you get it turned so it will work, do not DO NOT turn it all the way to the off /lock position, leave it half way in between lock and acc. this will make it so you can still start it. then use the other key to lock/unlock the door. yes you need a new ignition lock cylinder, no the door cylinder will not work. but new may mean you can have a lock smith rekey your existing ignition cylinder and make it like new. he should be able to tell you or at least not charge you if he can't make it work. it is surprisingly easy to rekey one, if you have the necessary part, tools and of course knowledge. if you remove subaru ignition cylinders all the time it can be done with out removing any plastic steering column parts. maybe this is true for lots of cars and the locksmith knows how. take the car to one and ask. how much to pull the lock cylinder, how much to rekey? can you make it fit this NEW key i have? oh and buy some teflon lock spray for all of your lock cylinders, it works wonders. good luck.

i'v had 93, 95, 97, subarus and they all used the same key (as well as the same ignition keyway) as my 90 nissan. i don't know if or when nissan changed, or if / when subaru changed.

on an auto trans, the rear shaft need to be there or the AT fluid spills out. i don't know about manuals. seems like it would work if it didn't leak fluid.

keys and keyways wear as they get used. cutting a key from a code for a 12 year old car is likely to produce a mediocre fit. the keyway is worn, the key is not. either cut a key from a used / worn key or pay a locksmith to replace the pins in the key way to match the code on the 'new' key. doors are much less sensitive. i removed a keyway had a locksmith rekey for 20$ about 6-8 years ago. call around.

IT DEPENDS ON THE TRANS, manual trans can be towed with all 4 on the ground and the trans in neutral. auto trans can be towed with all 4 off the ground, or the front 2 off the ground WITH the rear drive shaft disconnected or removed.

95 fronts share parts with the 99 outback, i can't remember if it's fronts or rears or both. the 95 rears are smaller and a rotor, caliper etc swap would have to be done. the easy solution is to cross check the 95 rotor part number at autozone.com and see if it fits the 99.

let me know if you want to sell the outback struts and springs. john

crazy speedo is generally caused by : (not necessarily in this order) bad front speed sensor dirty connections between the speedo haed and the wiring harness / cluster bad speedo head if you have the old trans, try the other speed sensor. did it do this before you swapped the trans. on an auto trans, there is a fairly easy way to check your front and rear diffs to see if they match. 1. unplug the wiring harness going to the trans, passenger side near the fire wall. 2. jack up one side of the car, driver or passenger, both wheels off the ground. 3. start the car and put the trans in neutral. (release the hand brake) 4. rotate one of the off the ground wheels by hand. the other wheel on the same side should match it turn for turn. it will help if you mark both tires at the 6 oclock position with tape. it may take several rotations for any error to show up. this process locks the transfer clutch in 4WD, with the car running the front and rear wheels are locked to the trans output shaft. if the diffs are the same, the wheels turn the same.

some one else will confirm or correct, but i think this means, bad alternator, but check the brake fluid just to be sure. if it only does it when turning in one direction.... probably a bad axle. if it does it in both, i'd be sure to rule out torque bind by driving it in tight circles , in both directions. i don't think the lights have anything to do with the steering problem.

ok slight hi jack. why can't you put narrower tires, 195s on an out back. you can still make them as tall as the 205s it comes with, but it wil have narrower foot print, like the legacy L. this would seem to me to give higher MPG. are differences between the legacy and the outback so great to prohibit this? is the weight and height diff enough to make this dangerous? just wondering. sorry for the distraction.