johnceggleston

NO!! i can't decipher the tranny codes. i have just spent a long time searching for transmissions. (i'm looking of rmy second 96 leg 2.2 right now) what are you trying to figure out.? i'm mostly familiar with legacy, 95 - 99 legacy ............................................................outback TZ102zA2AA - 94 ? TZ102ZAAAA - 95 & 96 early ..............................TZ102ZABAA - 96 2.2L TZ102ZABAA - 96 .............................................TZ102Z2ABA - 96 2.5L TZ102ZACAA - 97 & 98 ......................................TZ102Z2CBA - 97 & 98 2.5L TX102ZADAA - 99 (guess?) .................................TZ102Z2DBA - 98 late & 99 early 2.5L .......................................................................TZ1A2ZJEBA - 99 late 2.5 pase II 4eat after searching for trannys that would fit in my car i noticed the the 2.5 outbacks had a 2 after the second Z in the model number. this 2 represents 2.5L. this is fact. i suspect that the 2 represents different final drive ratios, but i have no proof. i think that the only differentce between the 2.2 leg and the 2.5 gt / ob trans is the final drive ratio. ( i guess the TCU for the GT may have different "programing" for that sportier car, but i doubt the mechanics are different.) by the way, the 90 -94 trannys that did not have any Z's were FWD. those number had A's instead Z's. TA102Axxxx = FWD so anty time i see other similarities betwen tranny numbers i assume ...i know, dangerous. if there is not a major generation change, usually the last 3 or 4 letters progress from one year to the next. this works up to about 03, 04 (?). it's way too expensive for subaru to completely change the trans every year, but there may be minor changes. so when putting a 97 in a 96 car, get the tcu to go with it. idon't know impreza or forester numbers, but i bet all of the 96 - 98 (maybe 99) forester trannys had a 2 after the second Z. ( i don't know when the forester was introduced.) i think i'm lost now, john

based on those numbers and the refill amount of 3.5 - 4 qts of fresh fluid, if you change the fluid 3 times you will have used 10.5 to 12 qts. of new fluid. if you change it 5 times to get 92% fresh you wiil use 17.5 to 20 qts. if a gallon cost 12$, drain and refill 3 times costs 36$ and 5 times costs 60$. the idea of doing myself appeals to me, but if i have a trans problem, i think i'd pay to have it done, (89$ at one shop, filter extra, hehehe). the point being, if you NEED new fluid get as much as possible as soon as possible. on the other hand if this is periodic maintenance, then do it yourself. just do more often than the book calls for. 6 drain & fill gets you to 95% new. what if you did it every time you changed your oil for 2 years? or 3 times to start and then the next 5 or 6 oil changes. just thinkin' out loud. john

when searching car-part.com for 00 - 03 leg / outback a/t's i remember reading a note that said "8 bolt model". i don't know exactly, but it might mean there is hope for a match. apparently some of the earlier h6 3.0 engines used transmission with similar model numbers, but the later ones are way different. TG5C7CMAAA - 05 outback 3.0L a/t T21B7LCACA - 05 outback 2.5L a/t canada & fed. Not calf. TZ1A4ZMEAA - 03 - 04 outback 3.0L a/t without VDC TZ1A4ZCEBA - 03 outback 2.5L a/t in 97 -99 a/t model numbers, the character after the second 'Z' (position 7) indicated 2.5 or 2.2 engine. '2' for 2,5 and a letter for 2.2. gearing and driive ratios aside the trans housings were the same other wise. it looks like maybe the 'M' in position 7 indicate 3.0L.. the TZ1A4... series started in 2000 i think. what year is this h6 3.0 ?

my first stop would be www.car-part.com. but i don't know how much luck you'll have since there aren't many RHD cars around. but they have great interchange software. second i'd check on the id tag under the hood , driver side, strut tower. that will give you your trans model number. but before you buy, you need to know what is causing the problem. what is the problem? how did irt occur? how many miles? third, it is very difficult to know which differential you actually have. but an exact match on the trans model# will work. your years are 95 to 98 (maybe early 99, the phase 2 4eat came out in 99.) these are the rules: 1. get the exact same trans model # as you have now. model # something like TZ102ZABAA ( i think this is a 96 leg A/T 2.2L wagon.) OR 2. get the same model and the closest match year as you can, AND get the TCU as well.( the TCU is insurance against a change betwen years.) OR 3. get any trans close to your model or year AND get BOTH the TCU & rear diff. ( the rear diff is in case the diff gear ratio is different.) generally the same models will have the same diff, but the trans may change slightly betwen years. on the outback side 97 & 98 group together, and on the legacy side 95 & 96 group together. i don't know about 97-98 legacy. lastly, post a want ad in the wanted section of the market place here. holler if you need help. john

go to http://www.car-part.com and search for a power steering pump 1995 impreza 2.2L engine. they will list both legacy and impreza pumps from multiple years. most of the salvage yards are using the same software, it's good that they told you to change the bracket. have fun.

yes all of that is true, but in the south the plural of y'all is ALL Y'ALL.

ok, here's the real southerner test. what's the plural of y'all???? i'll check back with you in a while. john

it must be a real challenge t ofind a good suby mechanic, especially for an old one, if there aren't many on the road.

definitely smack the guy. he's nuts. they didn't put that type of filter on subarus until 99. he's an idiot. the only filter on a 96 is inside the pan and it's not a filter it's a screen. and if you ever go to a shop to have your trans fluid flushed, tell them not ot remove the pan and not to replace the filter (there isn't one). that's standard for that type of service , since a lot of cars don't have AT fluid drain plugs. also the oil pans on the automatics tend to leak if not reinsatlled correctly. there was / is an external AT filter that some have talked about , but it's pretty rare and it's installed on the fluid lines that run to the radiator (driver siode). but you don't have that and there is no way the parts guy could know if you did. so yeah, smack the guy. OH, AND CONGRATS ON THE SUCCESS OIL CHANGE. did you get the drain plug washers? john

yeah , i fixed mine temporarily. i put the rear section of the drive shaft in the trunk. hello FWD. it buys me time till i can fix it. and before you say it, i know....."they put that drive shaft there for a reason." john

yeah, it can't be a 94 outback, must be a typo. 96 maybe? welcome :banana: ridem' cowgirl!!:banana:

this guy is parting out a 90 legacy a/t, awd, 200k miles and it has a hitch. i don't know it will fit but i don't know it won't. my guess you could get the hitch and hardware for cheap. http://greensboro.craigslist.org/pts/255811840.html

my left front wheel bearing has been making noise for a while so i swapped in the one from my donor car. after i got started i couldn't find my axle nut socket. so it was time to punt. i decided to go ahead with the swap, but instead of just swapping the kuckle / hub parts i swapped the axel as well. that way i didn't need my axle nut socket. i don't remember who posted it, but i remember reading it , and i want to thank him for the infomation. the bottom bolt connecting the knuckle to the control arm, it has a castle nut on it. well i removed the nut and then just like i read here, i smacked the lower control arm with the hammer, and sure enough the bolt popped right out. THANK YOU USMB!!!!!!!!! every thing else was very straight forward and pretty simple. i even marked the location of the top knuckle bolt connecting to the strut. (the camber adjust bolt?) that way it goes back together exactly like it came apart and i don't need an alignment. THANK YOU USMB!!!!!!!!!!! (haynes may even have known that one) i did have one washer leftover, but i know where it goes so i'll reinstall it tomorrow. it was getting dark as i finished. remove 2 knuckle / hub / axel assemblies and install 2 of the same in my drivewat (i still need the donor car to roll), 4 hours. that's a lot of work for a wheel bearing but what the hell, it's my day off. a great big thanks again to the board for helping me learn how to work on my soob. john

if i were to get it , i would swap out the engine any way, but i just hadn't heard that kind of description before. the idiot lights make sense now that you mention them. the shutting down due to overheat was new, it too makes sense. too hot to run. and since it happened on the hiway, suddenly, my guess it was really hot, and she didn't notice until it started acting funny. thanks for the info. john

the 95 is probably due for the t-belt at 120K and then good for another 100k. the 97 is probably due at 105k, unless you have paper work to show it's been done. either one is going to cost 600$ pluss , maybe as much as 1000$(?) depending on pulleys and such. i doubt you could go 2 - 3 years in the 95 without doing the work, but maybe 1 - 1.5 years. the belt on there is either a 60k belt or a 100 k belt, but the first change interval was 60k. so you should have either 5k or 45k left. on this one you can risk a longer interval, no damage if it fails. the 97 has 42k left. change interval, 105k; and you don't want to risk more, it's not worth it. all of this depends on when the belt was last changed. check the paper work.

this is a hijack, of sorts. i found this discription of a HG overheat and wanted your input on engine outcome. do you think the engine/block damaged or would the HG make it run again.? "It overheated once, on the highway, at 70 mph. I coasted onto the off ramp and only then did all the warning lights come on and the engine shut down. It has been started once, immediately turned off and never driven after that." this is the first i've read about warning lights and the car shutting down. but it did run after that so it's not siezed. 2.5 outback wagon w/ 130k miles A/T. any thoughts? thanks, john

97 - 99 the legacy, brighton, L , others? had the 2.2 interferrence (different than 95-96 2.2, some design changes) 97 - 99 outback, gt, sus, (i think i'm missing one) 2.5 interferrence 00 - up 2.5 only (the 2.2 was only in the impreza and then only for a little while, i think?) i haven't heard enough feed back on the 97 - 99 2.2 to know how it compares to the 95 - 96. other than the interferrence issue. beside the outback was/is the hot ticket item. every body wants that. i think the 2.2 leg with new outback struts and wheels may be better, no HG issue. but i'm dying to know what the 2.5 engine would be like in a 2.2 car with the 2.2 trannsmission. more horse power, higher gearing....... of course the gear ratios may not match the power curve.

if that picture shows the bolt re-installed , it looks like one of the bolts that holds the 2 halves of the block together. didn't need to come out in the first place. just my guess.

one plug at a time is more for keeping your wires staight. if you pull all 4 wires you don't know which one went where. if you doo one at a time, you match the new one with the old one and you're good to go. i have , if you need it a new OEM coil pack 70$ shipped. subaru # 22433aa400 Impreza, 2.2L 1997 – 1998; Legacy 2.2L 1997 – 1998; Legacy, 2.5L 1999; john

you want to use a liquid graphite, not wd40. it's graphite suspended in a very thin oil / lubricant, the lubricant eveporates and leaves the graphite to work. much better!!!!!!!!! comes in a small bottle, couple of ounces, with a neat little nipple, just insert and squeeze a LITTLE. once you get it, do all of your locks, car house boat etc. you probably won't be able to find it the next time you need it so you just buy more. i have 2, one's empty, i know where that one is, the hafl full one , i can't remember. this is almost impossible to do but, DO NOT use too much, it will leak out of the lock and dribble down your door. have paper towels ready. recheck in 1, 3, 5, and 10 minutes.

500 miles a week is 25,000 miles a year. 4 years from now which car would you rather be driving and repairing, 95 w/ 215k miles or 97 w/ 163k miles? regardless of which one you buy, you are going to have to do the timing belt eventually, the trick is to sell the car before the second timing belt. i'd buy the 97. by my fromula, the 95: 32 plus 115 = 147 the 97: 55 plus 63 = 118 the difference in my mind is about 3000$ or 30k miles. the 97 is a bargain. be sure to check it out completely. carfax!!

definitely move the rear tires to the front. i bought a legacy one time with a similar problem and my mechanic said it was cheap tires and nothing would fix it. so i bought 4 new. (not from him.) problem solved. but until you have moved the suspect tires to the front , you won't know. it's probably not the differential. cv joints usually click. try jacking the car up and turning the tire by hadn. it should spin freely. compare the right to the left. you can do this when rotating the tires. if one of them has more resistance or stops quicker it could be a wheel bearing. listen and feel. check you brake calipers.

the link at the bottom of the first post takes you to another forum wiht more pics. the subject says "these are from israel."

my 95 legacy sedan came with those mirrors. 96 leg wagon was different.

http://greensboro.craigslist.org/pts/255811840.html