Quidam

Hey Guys, "Towing trailers or other items with your SUBARU is not recommended." This from pg. 109 in my Owners Manual. The Gross Combined Vehicle Weight Rating (GCVWR), trailer and tow vehicle isn't listed because of the above short sentence. My '87 GL Wagon has: Front, Gross Axel Weight Rating (GAWR) of 1770 lbs. The GAWR of the rear is 1895 lbs. GVWR is 3665, total for what it can carry. Car, fuel, people, etc. That is a 900 lb. "Capacity Weight", in RV terms, it's Carrying Capacity. From a purely legal point of view alone, should you ever cause a fatal accident and be found over those weights, you could pay dearly. You could loose "everything". It has happened and probably will again. A heavy hitch actually lowers your carrying capacity, tho Dave, that's a good looking hitch. Forget about the engine power for a minute, the real issue is is a short wheelbase, 96.8" and the trailer trying to control the car. One other as pointed out is the brakes and suspension not capable of handling the trailer in an emergency situation. I agree, don't do it. Doug

You mean clutch with a clutch pedal? None. The electro-magnetic internal clutch, which lists for like $800.00 U.S. is one of the failure prone areas that gets overheated. I've got Mobile 1 to go in mine next go round. The tranny only holds 4 qts. If you drop the pan, pull out the filter and let it sit inclined, you can drain three and a half qts. An additional cooler is being considered and the OEM gasket is glued to the pan, reused. The filter is wire mesh and reusable as well. Just clean it. The pan has a drain plug as well, and a magnet inside. One thing about transmission fluid, what i understand, it's not what it used to be. Like the good stuff was made from Whale oil and is no longer. Something like that. Anyway, Later

Yea, what Wayne said. IMHO, it's a much maligned misunderstood and often abused transmission. For instance: You should NEVER hold a ECCV tranny on a hill, at a stop, etc. with the throttle. When you're at a stop, get the foot off the throttle and on the brake. Factory instructions. This has probably contributed to a lot of failures with these cars. The other is proper service with new fluids after you've scorched the fluid. Four wheeling one of them? Watch the fluid and NEVER over heat one. Did you know, when these came out they actually programmed a stutter into the thing so it would sound like they are "shifting"? I could go on:). I have one as a daily driver btw. Doug So yea, I'm saying a lot of the failure issues are "the driver" with these things.

I have a friend who needs a shortblock for an '89 2 wheel drive 5 speed, carbed Justy. Chances of it not having the "low oil pressure problem"...humm. I'm going to sleep.lol Will check in tomorrow. Doug

Hi, What I need if it has the parts: #1-passenger side rear view mirror #2-fuel injectors. a spare set would be good. new is expensiive. #3-the short block if it's good #4-both tail lights if good #5-both headlights if good. leakers ok if they're intact. #6-inside rearview mirror and the retaining plastic screw #7-exaust manifold and cat Probably more if it isn't crushed and priced right. Doug

Hey, In this neck of the woods, i've known people who have spent up-wards of $6000.00 for the engine in a demolation car. Really. Built by racing engine builders. They eventually move the engine to the next body. I never say never...ever:) Doug

Hi, Something i'm not clear about with the R134 kits. On a basically good system with R12 in it, do you pull a vacume on it before dumping the charge? I haven't done HVAC in years...I worked almost exclusively with R22. Thanks, Doug

Hey, Make sure the carb is in order. Plugs, wires, cap and rotor, plug wires, ignition timing. The basics first. Nothing wrong with oem coil and distributor. Doug

Hey, That '89 did the same thing. Ran great, stop, etc. Just a thought anyway. Test it. Doug

Hi, Don't know if this will help, here it is. I had a '89 Justy did about the same thing, carb car. It was the ignition module in the distributor and was relativly inexpensive and easy to change. Doug

Bump for the Justy. I bought two yesterday. One '90 with 4wd, RS style, hatchback two door. 67000 miles, white. Another '90, red one like the first except two wheel drive and a blown tranny. I'm back in a good Justy. Doug

Yep, what he said. I have an '89 Sedan that by all indications, still has very tight clearances, a good thing. 10w 30 oil is all it needs to carry ten p.s.i. per 1000 r.p.m....

So that's why...thanks for the up-date. I'll check it out.

Hi tailgatewagon, I've decked a block to make it square with the world but...piston to cylinder head clearance is the first thought that comes to mind. How little you can get away with is something i just don't know at this point. I'll be finding out tho. Somewhere down the line. Doug

Hey All, I have two Subaru GL wagons right now that i plan to change the fluid in. I'm changing it because it smells and looks like automatic transmission fluid gone bad. I too use the turkey baster to do a partial change on occasion if needed. I did a partial change on my daily driver but it still smells bad. I'm going to flush it all out when I get around to it. Cheap insurance to me. This car in particular has 174000 miles on it. Doug

Hi, Yes, gasoline will work well. You know it's dangerous as a solvent, but it is an excellent solvent. You'll be taking your chances. I'd say you may have problems with cracked hoses as well in doing this job. Anything like that and you'll need to do some extra work. You can clean that pcv valve, but i've found it's usually not worth it in the long run. An O.E.M. pcv would be ideal, a new aftermarket pcv valve would probably be better than a cleaned used one. Just IMHO and YMMV. Hope this helps. Doug

Hey Cracker. Can you describe this "knock" ? Sincerely Doug

Well now. How about running Methanol straight up? Class rules and all I suppose. Have you or anyone you know ran a Subaru as such?

Hey, My '87 carbed GL 5 speed, hi low range, wagon will go about 80 miles after the low fuel light comes on. I've run it empty twice with me having a fuel can on board to check it. No issues with the pump while doing this and the motor shuts off like a switch is turned off. It also fires right back up without a hitch. YMMV

lol. Well take a look at this Gama Goat: http://www.olive-drab.com/idphoto/id_photos_m561.php3 I got hooked on wheeling by operating this thing way back when. 3-53 Detroit sitting right behind you, supercharged, 6 wheel drive, 4 wheel steering. Articulated power joint.

Hey Dan, Don't know exactly what you're working on but...I pulled an E-82 long block out by myself recently, bare hands. After I pulled the intake and layed the whole deal up in the spare tire well, unbolted the alternater, ps pump, battery. The long block weighs 140 lbs, step over the radiator support, it's out of there. YMMV

I don't know if the Legacy one will fit but not much ATF will run out, certainly not all. Even if you pull the drain plug on the pan about 4 quarts will drain.

Hey boost, Look into your right rear fenderwell. The coverplate for the fuel filler neck and lines is in there. Pull the plate off, i think it's three bolts that holds it on. The bolts may break even if you spray them down with penetrating oil. I replaced one filler neck because it had a hole in it where the mounting bracket is located. Taking that plate off will allow you evaluate this area and clean it out. There is usually a lot of crud up in there. Hope this helps.

Hi boost, I've replaced one on a '88 GL, it was leaking internally. I pulled the vacume line off and fluid ran out of it. Don't know what they cost new, i just put a good used one in. It came off a parts car.