Quidam

Of course, the springs and seat pressure are a given. Good ones. No Tit. valves. 9K is doable. Belts will hold just fine. Doug

Well, thanks!

Hey, Thinking of: Max compression ratio, hi lift, longer duration cams, max lift. Overlap? 110 degree centerlines? Don't know for sure. Gen 1 heads. No cracks. pocket port, multi angle valve job, by my most convenient racing engine builder. Titainum retainers. Looking to turn 9000 rpm. Custom intake, carbureted. Well that's a start.

Hi, I weighed an EA-82 once. Not a turbo. No clutch or intake, about 140 pounds. Doug

I ordered one of those sockets from etool. It "looks" very sturdy, made in Hungary. It's not an impact socket and not advertised as such. Fair enough. The other day I attatched it to a 220 ft. lb. impact gun and removed an EA-82 rear wheel bearing nut with it. Take a look at my pictures. The square drive portion is now pretty distorted. I had no idea it would fold like that, it's pretty soft metal. Doug

BROKEN IN??? "Then the day came that 500 miles were on the odometer. So I decided to do a pull to 7000RPM. First a 6000, then 6500. But I noticed a strange sound. My stomach started hurting, as this sound was rod knock type sound. This was bad! Babying the car back to work the next day, the sound got worse and valve train noise starting happening. This is not good. The engine came out, and was disassembled. Sure enough, rod bearing #2 has a little more clearance than the rest. Say about 50 times more clearance! Thank goodness we paid the engine builder to assemble it, because it would have a warranty, right?? WRONG!! The builder of course blamed it on oil supply, or improper break-in, not enough oil pressure, too much boost, or knock, but nothing that they did of course. Being a reasonable person, I looked into his suggestions. Boost didn't cause it, knock didn't cause it (have logs), so I looked to oil. Plenty of oil was in the engine and not a bit was ever consumed. Oil pressure, ya right this thing runs 100+psi, and that wasn't' the problem. The argument back was that was way too high, and the added friction from the added pressure could have broken down the oil (due to heat), and caused this. I don't buy this at all, as all JDM STI's have shims to add oil pressure. It basically came down to there were too many things that could have caused it, none of which could be proven it was their fault or mine." Just some thoughts here. Unless something is learned from this, could be doomed to repeat it. First, why would a person be running 100+ psi in a Subaru at the RPM listed? At operating temperature, 10 psi per 1000 RPM has never let me down. Now, a lot of unknown factors come into play with this particular engine. The original clearance for one, as he stated. The actual oil and weight used when it failed. The actual oil temperature. He added coolers for this phase of the build and as stated, he said it ran hot. He could have had the oil he pulled out tested. Might have told him a lot. On the throttle under boost with a conventional oil. That oil in certain parts of the engine could have been close to 400 degrees, or more. I don't know of course. He may have ran up against the thermal limits of a conventional oil. Or not. Like I said, I don't know all the facts, and I'm certainly not pointing fingers. I do know what a modern synthetic oil is capable of in regards to heat. Doug

Yes. IMHO, the original designer put pearls before swine, so to speak.

Whoa, had to look this up. Didn't know this was still out there, a gasket sealer from way back. If I remember right, Indian Head is the brand name, not Indian, Head Gasket shellac. Don't do it. http://www.permatex.com/products/automotive/automotive_gasketing/gasket_sealants/Permatex_Indian_Head_Gasket_Shellac_Compound.htm Edit: It appears this is going to be an experiment then. I know this is frustrating for you. That shellac IS hard setting. The heat range isn't up to par for sealing a combustion chamber. Throw in the thermal expansion properties of aluminum and I think this stuff will crumble and fail. It's just a question of how long, a question of when, not if. Could be a costly experiment in time and money.

Yep, the oil pressure gage while it's under observation. You added MMO. A car that's sat without at least a yearly oil change and low miles, can be problematic. The condensates in the pan and motor can get pretty ugly. This is for a Pa. car, so the dryer climate folks might not fully understand. Well, just some thoughts. Edit: The old oil pan, did it rust from the outside in, or vice versa? I saw an oil pan from a 302 c.i. Ford that had actually rusted from the inside out. Believe it or not. It had low miles, short trips, and it seems once in a blue moon oil changes. As the guys pointed out, see if you're grounded.

I looked at an '87 FSM for a carb car and didn't see a "relay". What it does show is called a "REV sensor", Black in appearance, 6 pole..., that the fuel pump runs through. I'm hoping to take a closer look at the car tomorrow if I have time.

Hey Peter, I've got a carb "86 that is hot wired to run off the coil. Previous owner did that. I suspect it's supposed to run through a relay, but haven't gotten into it. If that's the case with your car, you have voltage but, it might not be able to carry the amperage to run the pump. I'd be interested in how you resolve this. Doug

See if and where it leaks fluids. Cars that set with that low mileage can be leakers. I would want to pull a valve cover with this mileage and age and history. That would tell me something about all those years, and few miles.

Here's another listing I've wondered about: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/85-90-SUBARU-LOYALE-GL-GF-DL-FE-RX-RADIATOR-86-87-88-89_W0QQitemZ230190203270QQihZ013QQcategoryZ33602QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem It's $56.99 delivered to my door. I would think for that price, you get plastic tanks and an aluminum core. It's listed as having the lower outlet pointing toward the fender. For a stock daily driver, that is a very good deal. If it's any good at all. Anyone here bought one of those? It cost me $42.50 each to have two copper/brass EA-82 radiators tanked, pressure tested, and painted. The owner of that shop told me the radiator listed above is probably made in Singapore and had no further comments.

Sounds to me like the thermostat is stuck. The lower hose collaspsing is probably from the water pump suction.

Every time I've had an EA-82 car "wander" left or right I've found the front caliper to be hanging up on that side. A clue will be the inner brake pad thinner, worn more than it should be. Usually.

[attach]5345[/attach] 750 H.P., Turk built. 2.5 L. Link to more info. http://subarujusty.proboards20.com/index.cgi?board=memberjustys&action=display&thread=1193700033

Hey John, 135K on it? I'd take another look and at least make them an offer. That is, if you really want one. How were the shifters and linkage? If everything is tight there, that's worth something. Inner shifter boot intact? I've got one good one from a 100K car, out of three. I'd get all of that with it and part of the console too if you don't have it. I keep thinking 135K on it and if all of the above is in good shape, I'd make an offer, try to work something out. If I really wanted one. Doug

Doug

Well, if you're sure it's flat...What hatchsub said, or...get an OEM gasket... or block that coolant line at the source so it never reaches the gasket. Just thinking out loud. Hope you're back in the saddle soon. Doug

I place a large pan under the engine and go at it with kerosine and a brush. Drip "dry". Finish with compressed air.

Hi cd45, My guess is that the flange and/or the adaptor isn't clean/flat. Sounds like you may need to pull the studs from the manifold so you can file, and or block sand the flange. Just a guess, without more information. Doug

Now, I've done this on a Justy. It involved streaching the boots but no problem there. Don't see why it wouldn't work on a EA-82.

Hi Alabass, I bought two front axles from NAPA once, and had no problems with them over thousands of miles. It seems, YMMV with buying rebuilt at various locations. It was the first EA-82 I owned and the outer boots were blown. I get complete axles from parts cars. A local salvage yard might be a good bet for you to grab the whole thing with good boots. It can be tricky buying just the boot kits. Boot, clamps, replacement grease. You can spend a chunk of $$ and the quality varies. The difference in material and construction of the clamps alone can be considerable. You'll spend more time re-booting your axle than it would take to remove and replace with another one too. HTH These days, I stack the old ones like cord wood. The real keepers are the ones that have never been rebuilt/molested, or click. I have on hand several new boot kits and 5 new stub axles should I ever need to rebuild some. I bought them on line for very low prices over time. I'm not looking foreward to that job tho.

The Autozone here didn't carry NGK. Last week I went in to buy a set of Denso and they had none. NGK's would have cost me a fourty mile round trip to Advanced Auto. He tried to sell me Bosch. I tell him Denso or NGK is what I run. He went and got a set of NGK for me. Don't know what's up with that.

What I did recently, for a temporary fix so the car is still usable. I have another oil pan on hand for a proper fix at my convience. Leak was on the front verticle section of the pan EA-82. Took the mini grinder with wire wheel and cleaned it to bare metal. Drained the oil, let it sit over-night. I bought a Permatex two part epoxy stick at WallMart. I think the JB is too thin for this kind of repair, mabie not tho. Take a chunk of the Epoxy, kneed it, and apply it to the area. Make sure to push some into the holes so it forms a lock when it cures. After it cured i spray primered and painted. Fill with oil and drive. At least your car will be drivable. Doug Shrugs. Rust belt people do this kind of stuff.