Quidam

Hi, I'd let it fully warm up and change the oil and filter at that point. Doug

Hi, The only thing I would be doing different is using a superior oil filter. And stick with one brand. Interesting test. Thanks. Doug Edit: One more thing, I change just the oil filter about half way and top up the oil. Not all the time, just certain engines. Once a year oil and filter in the spring is optimal for me. There are conditions where I have left Mobile 1 in the crankcase for two years, with the regular top offs as needed.

Hi Bob, You're welcome. Pictures of EA-82 MPFI intakes are around. Some posted recently. Here's a pic I have on hand. '86 EA-82T MPFI. Doug

Hey Bob, That manifold in the photo is EA-82T. Nods head on the rest. Doug

Hi Andy, If you need any parts, I've probably got them...I'd have to look. Doug

I have no idea. Well out of 50,000? total Justys imported to the US...I have that one, it's a driver. The other ECVT is toast, it's 4wd. I have one ECVT two wheel drive. Previous owner torched the tranny delivering mail. That's all I know:)

Hi, If you clean the plugs off and hold the throttle wide open while cranking until it starts. Well it should start. Don't pump it any more. Just a wag. Doug

Here is something else to consider. I own and have used a belt tension gauge. What I saw with a lot of DIY'ers was that they don't get it tight enough. Doug Edit: I hardly ever use that belt gauge anymore. Last time I did was to demonstrate to a guy how they should be. He had just swapped a motor, thought he had it tight enough, an hour later it was squealing with the altenator draw on it. Used single belt...there is a setting for that. It's a good hands on teacher and it measures the belt strech, after you install and calibrate. Mine is plastic and it was inexpensive. It has scales for single or double belts, old and new alike. I'm talking V belts here. New stuff has that all built into the system...and you don't even have to think about that. Last serpentine I did there was nothing to it, slap the belt on an go. Once you clamp it to a belt, make sure you remove it before starting the engine...or it goes blammo. I've bought two in my lifetime. Doug

Yes. Pushbutton on the shifter. Doug One of mine:

No. They like it, as long as you don't get pinging. That's the sound of the piston ringing.

You're being awefully quiet. What are you up to?

The front cat...what I've done is cut out a section on top or bottom, remove the guts, weld back together. Your decision on whether to replace or gut is your call. I've had that busted up mid cat thing. It's annoying. Rattles, noise, nope, not my car. Well, you have some moral issues to sort out for you. Cats, O2, Feedback carb...I bought a brand new FB Carb for $72.00. Wow. so, you've got choices.

I'll add: 6. A Chevy unit doesn't have a jiggle valve. Bleed air, flat aluminum engine, head cracks. I worked on a 403 c.i. Oldsmobile "Way" back when. It had an impressive Robert Shaw in it then. It still has that same unit in it today. That's 20+ years ago. What these folks are saying, is that there "is" junk out there, and there "is" a difference. No jiggle valve and or a hole in a Subaru thermostat. I will never use one like that. My 02 Doug

Hey, Good suggestions on what to do posted. Bleed the brakes as suggested, LF, RR, RF, LR. It does make a difference. You should get a nominal 28 mpg once it's tuned up. Get the exhaust leak fixed. It does make a difference in power and fuel mileage. Doug

Hey Scott, What I was thinking was to nest two donut centers together, weld them into a "new" regular rim. I will probably never do that. I did not notice that there is no bead lock. And, I have no plans to ever lift a Subaru. I like your wide 5 approach, btw. Have you considered casting some up in aluminum? I got this thing about unsprung weight:). Doug

So? That's never stopped me before.

Yep, classic carb tuning...disable the secondarys, dial the primarys in, hook up secondarys, tune, and so on. Doug

Hi Orion, Do you mean the 15" wheel? I have considered taking enough of those wheels, 10 ea. and cut the rim part off. Grind, smooth, nest two together and weld to a new rim. Never done it and probably not the first to thnk of it. Rust will do this to a man:) Doug

I'm still in awe of the things I learn from board members here. I've got one of these on the shelf, but never considered throwing it on a Subaru:) It needs rebuilt. Doug:Edit: Mine is 130 Amp. I have an older GM that was hopped up, fancy tag, and $180.00. I've had it for years and it was a large purchase, at the time. Hasn't been on a Subaru yet, tho. 90 Amp @ 200* F.

Me too. We have the variable ratio rack. I've never ran across a contant ratio. Not even sure if they were put into EA-82 cars. Doug

Bingo. Not starting an engine for a year could be really bad in your climate. Bore rust, for one.

R.I.P. Rust never sleeps.

Hi Steven, I don't have any experience with 2.5 Subaru. The guys here know these cars, so here are just some thoughts. Two tests for combustion gas in the coolant. One positive, one negative. Someone is wrong. Pin that down with a third check. What were the numbers from the compression test and leak down? Edit: Gary, my leak-down tester has a 200 p.s.i. gage. If the car I'm doing is supposed to show say, 170 psi on a compression test...that's what I test it at when I leak it down. A lot of leak-down rigs will only do 100 psi. Well, there's a story right there. A leak down using 100 psi can not give you the whole story. Of course, you have to have the air compressor to acheve those higher numbers, or bottled nitrogen. Colapsed rad hoses make me think stuck thermostat. But I'm not sure in your case. "IF" the compression is good, leak down good, no combustion gases in the coolant. I'd be looking somewhere else. Radiator, thermostat? Has the drive pulley on the crank been slipping? Recent timing belt and water pump and all. I don't even know if it's possible on the 2.5. It is on the EA-82, and if it has red locktite on the bolt, it can and will stay in the crank, and slip. Been there done that with a previous owners repair. But I don't know much about these 2.5 engines. The leakdown needs to done with the engine hot. Thermal expansion and contraction and all. I'd get a third then sort it out. Doug