Quidam

Hey, My '86 carb wagon has two as well. Keep in mind there's probably a "sock" on the pickup in the fuel tank. A pre filter for the fuel pump. Doug

Some things are better left un-said. This post has no usefull info, unlike many of your posts. It may even have harmed the original poster. Think about it. Gary gave good helpful, reasoned, advice. Why couldn't you just let it be this time? It's a 17 year old Sube. It's a 4WD 5 speed. I'm positive he can easily get more than $100.00 for it. etc, etc. I try to keep three things in mind. Is it true, is it necessary, is it kind. Now don't try so hard to live up to your sig GD. I will not argue with you on this.

No wave or nod here, however this happens: I go into a store, mall, whatever. I come out and another Subaru is parked next to mine, sometimes two of them. So, for years now, I park next to another Subaru when I see one, which is often .

Hey, Anyone know how to get in touch with oronocova? The sequence of events he describes doesn't jive with the "normal" oil pump failure mode in these cars. I suspect it's something else, possibly a timing belt tensioner. Thanks in advance if you can help. Doug

Bump for the "Oil" light question. P.M. sent as well.

Hey, Depending where you take it, in one piece, it's worth $125.00 to $200.00 per ton as scrap. Answer me this. When did the oil light come on? Doug

Yep, I've seen a few in this small University town. I have an '89 SPFI, DR 5 speed sedan as well. It's getting a LSD, rear disc conversion, manual steering rack, and other stuff in the comming months.

Thanks for posting this Moosens. I wanted to go last year but just couldn't. I'm going to see if I can get there this year. Bring a Justy:)

I have the vehicle you described and live across the river in Ohio. It would cost you 2 K tho...you didn't state a price range, so...and, I haven't read this thread yet so it could be a "never mind", anyway:) Sincerely, Doug

All of the above, spray with penetrating oil. You could also try moving the car, yes even driving it in the driveway with the lugs slightly loose. HTH Don't do it if you're not comfortable with it. It's been effective for me tho.

I spray the nuts with PB Blaster first and let it work. I bought a long 10 MM box wrench to clear the fan blades. Hold tension on the belt if needed and bust them loose. Ratchet wrench used here as well.

Subaru recommends 3750 mile oil and filter changes for "Severe Driving". A lot of people follow the factory recommendation with good reason. Long runs on the freeway/Interstate, in my experience, 5000 to 7500 miles is realistic from good oil and a quality oil filter. YMMV and probably will. Severe driving is: Repeated short trips, stop-and-go, extensive idling (urban driving) Rough, muddy, dusty, wet, cold salty conditions Towing a trailer *notes 1: under severe driving replace ever 3,750 miles

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Ok bgd, tell me what I'm missing here. As long as the float bowl doesn't run out of fuel, that's all it needs in the way of a fuel pump. Or am I missing something? Yes, regulattors are available as well as pumps with various psi ratings. I had a warmed over small block Chevy that would empty the Holley float bowls at the top of third gear. This, with a high flow mechanical pump on the motor. I installed an AC electric pump in a box in the bed of the '57 Chevy pickup. On/off switch on the dash for when I beat on it took care of that issue. On second thought, what am I missing here?

"Oil recomendations for 120k EA82", in Chicago this time of the year? Same as i'm running now in the EA cars: 10W 30W. Castroil at Wallmart, 5 qts. for ten bucks or less. I should add that the 5 qt. containers of Valvoline often is about the same price at times. I run them both as I believe they're both good oils, add price and availability, it's a deal on these containers. Hell, if I found it in 5 galllon containers, i'd probably buy it too.

No comment. Later on. Doug

Well, you asked. I haven't even read the other responses.Two things off the top. The tires need to be 175-70 or that height, or less for throttle response. Lower effective drive. Less weight. Speaking of weight, some of these cars aren't that light. Several hundred pounds are up to you and the way the car left the factory. Go on a diet? I've done a lot of rust repair and you probably added lots of pounds in the repair materials. Of course several pounds rusted off too? lol Did you repaint it? Could be 100 pounds or more in that, lol. Oh well, get my drift? These are the things I think about on a race car. I'm gonna stop now:)

Hi, I keep a known good aftermarket temperature gage and fittings in my tune up kit to help sort out these kind of issues. It will tell you if your factory gage is right. Another thing "may" be a partially plugged heater core. Really cold air...air pockets...hope you get it sorted out. HTH

I like the Electro Continuosly Variable Transmission. I drive one daily. Keeping fresh fluid in them is esential. I haven't had any problem with mine, but it only has 70,000 miles on it. Have you driven one?

4WD? Miles on it? Any fuel injected Justy engine will bolt up. From the brief description it sounds like it "May" be worth it.

Just some thoughts on JDM in general. It seems to be a crap shoot sometimes. If you can't put your hands and eyes on the ACTUAL engine and or tranny. Insist on pics of the actual part in question. Anecdotal JDM info. '89 carby Justy 1.2 L nine valve 3 cylinder: Ebay purchase, $390.00 shipped from California to a business address in Ohio. Would have been $50.00 more shipping to a residence. The ebay picture showed the engine with no accessories, no intake, carb, or exaust manifold. The engine arrived complete, air cleaner to oil pan and even had the flywheel with a powder clutch assy. for the ECVT transmission attatched. It also had the air conditioner compresser, alternator, and power steering pump. Now, to my knowledge, Justy's weren't sold in the U.S. with power steering. The Cat converter had two O2 sensors where the U.S. version has one. The engine is up and running like a champ, and was very clean inside. The oil pan was removed and the guts inspected, timing belt tightened up a bit, and the valves adjusted. The pick up coil assembly in the distributor was bad and it didn't fire up the first attempt. Swapped distributors and it fired right up. I'm speculating here: The reason the car may have been taken out of service in Japan in the first place "MAY" have just been the bad pick up coil. How does this pertain to a JDM transimission? Well, it seems you never know what you'll get. On this engine, I got lucky. It's been said that you don't need luck if you're good:). hummmm Doug

Hi, Enter "13" Justy wheels" in search, that should get you to a thread you may find useful. I've never seen a Gen 1 Justy in the flesh. The Gen 2 cars came with 12" and 13" tires and wheels. Best guess is that you could go as large as 165-70 without cutting anything in 13". And probably 145-45-15 with the right off-set wheel.

Hi, Athens, Ohio here. The bolt pattern is 4 X 100 and if you're not aware of it, Justy's came stock with 165-65-13 too. Aftermarket wheels in 12" and 13" are bolt on. Look at Konig Wheels for one manufacturer. First question is: How much are you willing to spend? Doug

Hey, Custom tubular headers have been made before for the Justy, I'm sure. Do you know anyone that actually makes or sells them? I don't. So, I've sourced all the parts to make them. If I do I'm making one for me, one for a friend, and one to put up for sale. The only part not off the shelf will be the header flange, where the tubing bolts to the cylinder head. Any thoughts, ideas, opinions that you may have on this I would appreciate. I really don't want to make them if someone allready does. Don't want to re-invent the wheel. Thanks, Doug