Quidam

Hi Richard, The transmission left in neutral isn't going to be a problem. You just have to make sure it's not in gear while towing. So don't worry about that. The first click of the ignition will unlock your steering and nothing will be on to run down the battery. No worries here either. The tracking...well I would just keep in mind what could happen and keep an eye on it. Mabie install a camera. Forewarned is forearmed. State laws for braking on a toad varies. Check this out. You have lots of options if you need them. Some people would tow this without them. Your call. Doug

Baseplates are available to attatch to your Loyale. I remember reading people who have done it. One thing to watch is the front wheels getting cocked and not straightening out when they should. This is the area you want to find more info on and beware of. hth Doug Edit:Towing World (www.towingworld) says the following.. "SUBARU (85-90 2WD/4WD): This car will occasionally opposite lock when starting from a curb at low speed on a surface with poor traction. This has been verified by our own testing as well as discussions with SUBARU who has an extremely strong anti-towing posture. This is copy from an old Usenet post. Just something to keep in mind.

As GD stated: '85 and '86 are true "bolt on" for your application. Aftermarket sheetmetal for your year will be bolt on as well. Later years, the headlight buckets are different. The bumper and cover too. The hood, later models had windshield washer nozzles in them. The fender trim for yours is glue on and smaller than the later models that have holes in the fenders to mount the side trim. The marker/parking lights are different, but fit the same... Pay your money and take your choice. It will all fit the car, just depends on what you want and what combination of parts you use. The grille and mounting are different too..

HTH. I have that black in a '86 wagon, so I wouldn't think it's RX specific. At this point you can just remove the upper shift boot and console so it won't be flopping around crazy like. It is annoying when that happens. Why does that happen? When mine have done it, it means that the shifter bushings are worn out.

This rust around the windshield thing had me wondering what was going on there. On my cars, some have it and others have none. I'm out in the yard one day and an old friend stopped by and wanted to look at the cars. He's been a body/fender guy his whole life. I asked him about that issue. He said it's caused by cutting out a windshield and not primering/painting/prepping the area. Bare metal from the removal usually from a knife used to cut out the old glass.

Ok, now i've got it. It was the water pump seal leaking, the seal where the shaft goes through the bearing right? It's been 20 years since I've bought a reman water pump and even back then I had the same problem with it that you had with yours. It has to do with pressing out the shaft, then pressing it all back together with a new seal and bearing. The used hub and shaft pressed back together is not as good as new. I'd like to know the failure rate with reman pumps, I'd bet it's high. The last NEW water pump I bought at NAPA came with the O ring, btw.

Hey Prospeeder, I've never seen a defective NEW waterpump, but that doesn't mean they don't exist. A remanufactured pump is the only bad "new" pump i've ever had. That was on a small block Chevy tho, and i've never bought another reman. That gasket sealer you described sounds iffy, what i use is good old Permatex #2 and glue the gasket to the pump. I put a very small amount on the other side of the gasket facing the engine and I've never had one leak on me. That O ring sounds like it "may" be the problem. When I've had a corroded pipe and no replacement on hand, I've put a little silicone around that O ring and it held fine. Yep, the O ring. Mabie. HTH

About a year back i ran across a blue one in Ky. They wanted $1500.00 and I didn't have the cash. It drove to Colorado the next day, damn. Nice car too.

Hey Prospeeder, Good looking RX you have there. I read the "Weird smell" thread today and you obviously now have first hand experience in what 260,000 miles really means. Want to sell it? I could be "some sucker to buy it" that you were referring to. lol Sincerely Doug

Anyway - I wouldn't let it stop me from driving what the h3!! i wanted. Carl I hear you Carl, me either, but people do the strangest things sometimes. It's 1969 and a man I know bought a NEW Chevelle SS. Yellow with a black vinyl top. Well, some people in that community ragged on him about the yellow paint, over, and over, and over. They thought it was weird, sissy...gay? even...whatever. Two weeks later he had it painted blue, no where near as good a paint job as the factory paint either.

Take a look at any MFG site on fiberglass hoods for reference. At U.S. body for instance: "Heavy Duty" meaning bolt on, about $500.00. "Race weight" pin on about $300.00. This for an, I would assume for these purposes, low production, slow seller, plain hood. I picked a Dodge Valiant. So who here would pay $500.00 plus freight for a hood? How about $300.00 plus freight? Scott, I have no doubt you could sell them here if you decided to make some. Give me a price, and I'll give you an answer. Doug

If you find the calipers and all to be working as designed, high on the list is old/swollen internally, rubber brake lines. HTH Doug

Well, mounting for me could be four aluminum hood pins. The hood would just need to stay in one piece. All the rest are details. The quality of the hood used for the mold a critical point. Build them inexpensivly but structually sound. A basic fiberglass hood, a blank, no holes, no scoops, no fussing with inserts for hinges and hood catch, additional structure and weight for all of the above. Any color you want as long as it's black, that sort of thing. A

Yea, a good one. I have a box of these lights that are leakers slated for repair at a future date. Good glass deserves saving around here. On a side note, of all the ones I have, out of six or eight drivers side headlights, ONE doesn't leak. The passenger side is less likely to be that way. What's this mean? I don't know, it's just what I'm seeing.

Hear here! I don't want any plastic radiators. They do serve a purpose tho. About three price ranges on e-bay. Pay your money, make your choice huh. Good to have those choices.

Hi Gary, Might be I don't understand the question but...that tire has a section width of 8.85", and a recommended rim width of 6" to 9". I use and prefer the tire calculator at 1010tires.com. HTH Doug

Hey All, Just anecdotal stuff here...I once bought a Ford pickup from a guy on the side of the road, I pulled him to safety with my Subaru. The transmission lost fluid because of a loose fitting. Anyway, I worked on the thing, got it going and all but it would occaisionaly go into fits. The engine would run rough, spit sputter, then straighten out. This would come and go. The guy I sold it to wanted the parts on it. He pulled the engine down and the thrust bearing was severely worn causing all the comotion. The crank would visibly move if you wedged and pushed, pulled on it. New bearings and crank took care of that. Doug

Hey There, Don't assume it's head gaskets. Check the radiator, the lower center area is prone to rot and not easily seen. Check the whole cooling system over. If I'm not sure, I do a leak down...you'll find out if you have a motor. Doug

Hi BlindSight, Keep in mind there are at least two sizes of batteries for these cars. A Car with AC takes a physically bigger and heavier battery. If you don't need the big one pass on it. Less weight and expense is a good thing. HTH Doug

[quote name=Syonyk I put it in using a screwdriver/hammer to tap it into place - it may not have been perfectly even side to side. Would this be enough to make it leak? Yes. Any damage at all, any distortion, it can and will leak. -=Russ=-[/quote] Doug

Hey Scott, Here's some of the choices we have in diameter: 145/80-12>21.13 Stock on any carb Justy, probably. 165/65-13>21.44 Stock on any FI Justy, probably. Not much selection and the Bridgestones in this size are expensive. 155/80-12>21.76 I had a set of these on a carb Justy and hated them. 195/45-15>21.90 My choice for the pimped Justy. Lots of choices here in price. 185/55-14>22.01 Not sure what's available with these. 165/70-13>22.09 The tire I see most on FI Justys. Readily available and cheap, compared to the 165/65-13. Fits the wheelwell with no mods. 175/70-13>22.64 These are too big and will require modifications to fit them to the wheelwell. HTH

Hey Scott, This copied and pasted: "The justy takes PCD 4x100, Offset 35-38, Centre bore 59.0." "The wheels from any of the following cars will fit a pre '94 Justy. I had 185/60R13s on my '90 2WD." "ACURA ·Integra 86-ON DODGE/CHRYSLER ·Neon 4 Lug 94-ON ·Eagle Summit 86-ON DAEWOO ·Lanos 98-ON ·Nubira 00-ON FORD/MERCURY ·Escort 91-ON ·Tracer 91-ON GEO ·Prizm 89-ON ·Storm 90-94 HONDA ·CRX All ·Del Sol 93-ON ·Civic 80-ON ·Prelude 82-91 ·Accord 80-89 ISUZU ·Stylus 91-92 ·Impulse 91-92 KIA ·Sephia 94-ON MAZDA ·Miata 90-ON ·MX3,GS 92-ON ·Protege 90-ON MITSUBISHI ·Mirage 93-ON ·Precise 87-94 NISSAN ·Sentra 86-ON ·Pulsar 87-90 SATURN ·SC-Coupe 91-ON ·SW-Wagon 93-ON ·SL-4 Door 91-ON SUBARU ·Justy 90-94 SUZUKI ·Esteem 95-ON TOYOTA ·Corolla 89-ON ·Tercel 89-ON ·Paseo 92-ON ·MR2 89-90 VOLKSWAGON ·Golf II & III 85-ON ·4 Lug Jetta 81-ON ·Cabriolet 92-ON ·Rabbit 76-91 ·Fox 87-93 ·Corrado G60 89-92 ·Scirrocco 79-89" How's it going with the search for wheels for your Justy? For next summer, I'm going with a 195 45 15 tire. The car has 165 65 13 on it now. After looking over the wheels available, I'll probably go aftermarket with a 40 mm offset. As this car is so light to begin with, I want the lightest wheel I can get, for the money I'm going to spend. 10 to 12 pound each range. Bigger tires and wheels, more weight, more diameter, will kill off some performance of your Justy. Throttle response takes a hit and the car won't handle as well over all. One carbureted Justy I put 70,000 miles on. The stock size is 145 12", when I put 155 12"s on it, I could tell they weren't as good as stock, overall. Tal

Good points, all. In Ohio I'm not sure of the requirements for a tow strap, but a chain between the two vehicles can't be over 10' long. A red flag of some sorts must be tied in the center of the tow chain, between the two vehicles. My best tow buddy is my Dad, he knows what to do.

As I just got an electric Inpact I'm going to give this a go next time. Last one I did , on a Justy, brought the threads out with it.