Quidam

Now, I've done this on a Justy. It involved streaching the boots but no problem there. Don't see why it wouldn't work on a EA-82.

Hi Alabass, I bought two front axles from NAPA once, and had no problems with them over thousands of miles. It seems, YMMV with buying rebuilt at various locations. It was the first EA-82 I owned and the outer boots were blown. I get complete axles from parts cars. A local salvage yard might be a good bet for you to grab the whole thing with good boots. It can be tricky buying just the boot kits. Boot, clamps, replacement grease. You can spend a chunk of $$ and the quality varies. The difference in material and construction of the clamps alone can be considerable. You'll spend more time re-booting your axle than it would take to remove and replace with another one too. HTH These days, I stack the old ones like cord wood. The real keepers are the ones that have never been rebuilt/molested, or click. I have on hand several new boot kits and 5 new stub axles should I ever need to rebuild some. I bought them on line for very low prices over time. I'm not looking foreward to that job tho.

The Autozone here didn't carry NGK. Last week I went in to buy a set of Denso and they had none. NGK's would have cost me a fourty mile round trip to Advanced Auto. He tried to sell me Bosch. I tell him Denso or NGK is what I run. He went and got a set of NGK for me. Don't know what's up with that.

What I did recently, for a temporary fix so the car is still usable. I have another oil pan on hand for a proper fix at my convience. Leak was on the front verticle section of the pan EA-82. Took the mini grinder with wire wheel and cleaned it to bare metal. Drained the oil, let it sit over-night. I bought a Permatex two part epoxy stick at WallMart. I think the JB is too thin for this kind of repair, mabie not tho. Take a chunk of the Epoxy, kneed it, and apply it to the area. Make sure to push some into the holes so it forms a lock when it cures. After it cured i spray primered and painted. Fill with oil and drive. At least your car will be drivable. Doug Shrugs. Rust belt people do this kind of stuff.

Hi Daniel, What I do is used when I have it, Ebay otherwise. I just looked and a company called "Mr. Fuel Pump" has one to fit your car for $50.00 shipped and it appears to come with the new harness too. HTH Others listed are in the $70.00, $80.00 range. Last one I bought new on Ebay was a 90 max psi pump and I paid $64.00 for it. Doug

$50.00 by a reasonable person trying to just put food on the table.

Damn Gary. You live too close to Washington, DC.

Just a unverified observation. I bought one 4WD ECVT that was redone to the tune of something like $1600.00 by Cottman. Supposed to have a new belt in it, etc, etc. It is toast after not too many thousand miles. I'll open it up this winter and look around. BTW, the tires on the car are oversized and don't match. I got it in "West. bu God, Virginia. Snow was flying that day, in the mountains. Doug

Really? Is there an echo in here:).

Welp, I didn't mention the aluminum tranny cooler and the B&M temperature gage. Enough said. All combinded, a comprehensive package for the ECVT. My work is done. Later on I don't watch tv, really. Work on the Subes, and life in general.

A JDM, "suposidly", 40,000 mile powdered clutch has my back. Brushes? I got two good sets. Thanks:) Doug

Wheels for the EA-82. Pain in the rump roast in our neck of the woods. Good wheels, that is. I've spent more time refinishing these things.... A good wheel, 4X140, here, is worth $50.00 to me. That's just wrong, for stock. sigh, oh well. Later

So, Once upon a time I read: "In fact, if it weren't for synthesized lubricants-and their ability to withstand high temperatures-modern jet aircraft engines simply wouldn't exist." So, fast foreward. The Justy ECVT simply "loves" Mobile 1 in the tranny. I'm not suprised:) Long live the ECVT, with proper maintence. Yea, that' s spelled wrong. Later

Yes, that's "about right". Yes, by about two bucks, mabie. I'm all ears for a price and availability less than that. I might need them soon, with an "86 that's never been apart. Not enough parts cars and the bone yards crush them. Later

#1...I've found powdered dishwashing soap effective to wash the insides out. Follow with window cleaner. Of course, you'd have to take them off the car first. Then you may have rust and a reseal to deal with. #2...Buy some on eBay or something.

Hey, Plan your dive, dive your plan, man:) I dived Barbados years ago. If you could do it in the pool, then you could do it in the ocean. So I did. Went down 40' at one point to a sunken ship. Spectacular! Have fun, and I'd be interested in what equipment you're using, just for current info. Doug

Hey Miles, My "Muffler Man" sold me a dozen 10X1.25 studs, nuts and washers. This for Justy exhaust, converter to front pipe, and some spares He did indicate, I think, that Mazda took the X1.50 and I believe he said most other Asian stuff uses the X1.25. YMMV, of course. Later

Hey Davalos, I had that flange and pipe into the converter cut off at a muffler shop on my GL. He welded a new pipe into the converter. I had him weld a new flange onto the other (muffler) end of that pipe as well. Total cost was $40.00 installed with a new doughnut gasket and spring kit. Took him about an hour. Doug

Hey, One '86 EA-82T I took apart had one liner spun around. It had been severely over-heated. Worth .65 per pound now, heads too. Doug

Hey, I once bought a Subaru at a Ford/Toyota dealership. They were asking $1500.00. A week goes by, I stop in and offer $400.00. They sold it to me. What's that car worth to "you"? Doug

I replaced a drive-shaft in a EA-82 car last week, and have another front shaft to replace, but I've got parts cars. I'm also getting a collection of drive-shafts with worn out u-joints. I haven't had to R&R any u-joints, yet. Someone please set this straight. Someone who has actually done the job. My understanding is: Once the staked joint is out, the replacement is done with 4 circular clips, and you don't re-stake the joint. True or False? If true, then it's really no big deal to get that joint "centered". If someone has never done u-joints I can understand the "problem", btw. All that's required is a careful competent gear head. What am I missing here? Doug

Hey, Just a thought. I have a local "Muffler Man" store that does some work for me. What I do is take them to him on Thusday's if I need that type of work. Day before payday and such, it's a relativly slow day usually. I hardly ever have to even wait for them to work on it. HTH. Doug

Daymummmm. Sorry to hear that. I'm speachless at this point. Now what you gonna do? Doug

Hi #89, I have read of one experience with changing u-joints on a Justy. The report said a little dremel work was all that was needed. I've personally not had to change any of mine yet. I have changed many u-joints tho. If I ever have to change them in a Justy, I'd probably torch the old ones out. Then knock the cups out, being careful not to distort or otherwise damage the shaft. Clean up with a dremel on the burrs and flat file any clearance on the inside diameter if needed. I don't have one out of the car to measure, but Rockford gives you all the dimensions needed. I don't believe it's a round hole, square peg type situation. Just a matter of having the right u-joint and the skill to fit them properly. At least that's what it looks like to me. Good luck with it, and you're welcome. Doug