Hogsubie

Bleak is actually asking if it's possible to install the dual range on the auto tranny he already has installed.

Where did you buy them (i.e...store/shop)? I know you said no-names...but do they have one? If your selling them, how much tread is left and what would you ask for them? I know shipping would be involved (if you're willing) but I'm in AR so it shouldn't be too bad. Thanks, Jason

What kind of tires are those and what size?

Check out Crutchfield's website or a paper catalog if you've got one. They'll be able to tell you what size and which brand/model speaker will fit your car. I've had good experiences with them. Highly recommend them.

Try Redline...they have several different flavors to choose from. I haven't used the stuff personally but I know some people who have with great success. I've also heard lots of praise about on the Grassroots Motorsports message board. Supposed to be the best stuff on the market. Redline also has this stuff called "Water Wetter", a coolent additive that supposed to do wonders for your cooling system.

Actually rhd jeeps are not all that uncommon. I've seen a few here in AR used by contract/rural route mail carriers. And if I've seen them in AR you know they can't be all that rare. As for that Jeep...one of the pictures was a tag that actually said Export. Probably went down to one of those Caribean islands that drive's on the wrong side of the road. Jamaica maybe (I don't know)?

Thanks for all the responses guys. All really appreciated. I actually didn't get to read your posts last night before wiring it up. My modem crashed and I hadn't put the new one on yet. Anyway, I took the voltmeter and checked all my wires I described and the only one that had power key on or off was the blue one (11.95~98). So I ran a line out of the fuse panel and it works! Thanks Caleb...I forgot about my voltmeter until you said something. I'm running all new speaker wire so I won't have that common ground issue. Now that I know it works, I've just got to actually finish the install.

Well...not bumpin' yet.

Mine has all kinds of settings...I'll take a look at when I get home. Thanks

I've got a voltmeter but I don't know how to use it. Care to teach me? I suppose I could read the directions (does that make me less of a man?). Thanks for the suggestion. I'll give it a try tonight. Still waiting for that one person who knows...

But my problem is I couldn't get any power to the head unit. I don't know which wire provide power. I did check my fuse(s) and they are good. What to do now? Anyone have a FSM with wire diagrams for a 1981 DL that you can scan and email or post? Or has anyone wired one up and can tell me which wire's which? Thanks

I've got an '81 Dl 4wd wagon and I want to put in a Pioneer CD. The radio/casette player I pulled out has only 2 wires other than speaker wires which included the ground/negative setup. So this must have been a subaru specific aftermarket setup. The only two non-speaker wires was a blue w/ inline fuse and a black. They were plugged into a 6 wire harness. The harness layout is as follows (I don't know which side is up though): BLUE - RED/blue stripe - WHITE YELLOW - RED/green stripe - BLACK The blue from the old radio was plugged to blue and the black into black. My new deck has a Yellow (battery tag), Red (acc tag), and a black (ground) then of course the speaker wires. The Haynes manual has a wire layout that's useless...it's "Typical of 1980 through 1994 Audio System Layout." I don't have some of the wires it says and I've got wires the diagram doesn't have. Can anyone help me out? Please. I drive alot and I'm getting bored! Thanks, Jason

Would you mind sharing your autocad dwg's? I've got cad at home and would love to take a look at those. If you don't want to share for propriatary reasons I understand. Thanks, Jason

Check out www.grassrootsmotorsports.com They have a lot of info on starting racing. I also suggest subscribing or picking up their mag on the rack. They have more info on paper than on the web. Call them and ask for back issues with articles on Rally'ing. They're good people and always willing to help. I suggest calling them versus email...they're so busy it takes a while to get a response (they run 2 mags now). Also start checking out their message board. Lots of good knowledgable people. Ask away...no typical flamers when it comes to newbies.

I appreciate all the input from you guys. I'm going to go back and check the torque of the castle nut. The manual or somebody suggested checking a few days after you put it back together just to make sure it's on good. I'll also inspect the overall area just to make sure nothing else is going on as well. I'm pretty sure it's not the u-joints (chef) because I can feel the vibration(grinding) coming from the front right. It's not just noise. I will check out the u/j though.

I know that noise 1 goes away when braking because I only get that while accelerating. I think noise 2 continues while braking. I'm not positive about that...I can listen when I go to lunch. Iknow the threads aren't mangled and I'm pretty sure that the castle nut was as tight as I could get it.

I just replaced my front right drive axle, but I'm still hearing noises from that area. The noises come and go, turning and straight. Mainly happens under harder acceleration. I'm getting two noises. Noise one is sort of a grinding noise with vibration which gets worse the harder I accelerate while i'm in 1st and 2nd gear. It occasionally happens when I shift into third buts it's faint and then goes away. Noise two is similar to the popping you get with a bad cv but it's a duller popping sound. It's not so much the sharp clicking sound associated with bad cv's. Also, could brake drag have anything to do with it? I did not replace the hub bearings, which i probably should have. Could I have bad bearings?

What all is involved in replacing a head gasket on an AE82? What all is involved in converting from auto 4wd to manual 4wd? There's a 91 wagon with a blown h/g fairly close to me.

Go to an auto paint store and have them mix you up some paint according to your color code and they can put it in spray cans for you. If you have any sort of metallic paint it won't come out quite right as in my case with a honda, but it should be close enough. Also, if your car has clear coat, you'd need to get some of that as well.

Which I suggest. High pressure sprayer, no mess to clean up. Take out your spare tire if it's still in the engine compartment. I sprayed my engine down really good one time and thought things were pretty clean until I took my spare out and couldn't believe how much gunk I missed.

I've got a grant wheel that I want to put in my 81 wagon. Grant tells me they only have one adapter that will work with my car, but it's like $50-$60 and I'm not going to spend that much. How did you get your's to fit? I've got some Ideas but if you've already figured it out...great! Do you have any pics? Thanks, Jason

My boots were in much worse shape. There was literally nothing left of the outer boot. The inner boot had 4 or 5 strips still connected that were maybe 1/2" wide with big gaps in between the strips. I see you have that hose missing that connects the exhaust to the intake. Did yours disappear or was it intentional? What purpose does it serve?

Yea...I work at from up top and from underneath the car. 81 DL 4wd wagon, btw. Thanks.

This was on the right side so I had an exhaust pipe and a cat right in my way. I couldn't get the hammer up there.

That looks like the roll-bar from a 1st gen 4-Runner. The ones with the removealbe back top. I could be wrong though.