moosens

While this first post remains true and in waiting yet another brown wagon has come my way. Due to get my hands on it later this week or early next week. Then I’ll have a better assessment of what I’ll be doing with it. But from what I’ve seen this appears to be another BODY I won’t be needing. Again , I am waiting to see but this wagon might be front wheel drive. So two bodies will be available most likely between now and end of summer. Original posting car sits in Norwich CT and will need to be hauled from there. This additional wagon I’m still not sure where I’m dragging it but likely Naugatuck CT where the next owner can pick it up. Will add more details soon. But please keep in mind these cars will be extremely picked over and likely will NOT ROLL. So bring some type of dolley or big log or whatever gets it rolled onto your hauler. Message here or email me at moosens@yahoo.com

I see 175’s on there. You know the deal, check the side door or door jamb tag for the correct size. My previous thought was for gen one , pardon that. I’m a dinosaur. Gen two deserves at least 175’s maybe 185’s if my memory serves me at all. My last gen two was around 2003 or so. Again back to which direction you want to take it. You might want strictly road tires with whitewalls, like I did back in the day with a 4wd wagon. The kid installing the tires was angry because I wanted the white walls out. But that was me then. What I wanted.

Those wheels were mostly found on 85-87 GL DL Loyale style cars. I’ve seen Brats with them but I agree I don’t think they are the best or maybe even weren’t offered for the Brat. But since they fit - the work. Known around here as the H style wheels. Had plenty of them.

So that looks like a CO plate which would be more likely to have little or no real rust. To me they’re mostly all overpriced these days. Be considerate to yourself. All depends on your direction going forward. Purist ? Mod happy ? Electric conversion? Lots of variations have already been successful projects. If you want to keep it close to stock then consider how little old stock is out there. Even the few guys who like me gathered old dealer stock - they aren’t exactly going to be able to restock. Good luck. Post back with your expectations of the Brat for the next few years or more. What would I pay for this? Maybe $3k or little more as long as it’s as solid as I’d like. Work your way back from there. Old days , would have gotten it for $600. But that’s life.

Sounds right in line with any east coast find Subaru of the 70’s or 80’s. Pretty much the items that make it stand and stop. And maybe add in occasional fuel delivery if a true rust bucket or longtime sitter. Those black round things I think tofu won’t have as hard of a time if you go with the 165’s Good luck, and enjoy! Similar situation here with my 79. So if the stars align, where do me meet up? Barrens? Carlisle? Most of the northeast vintage Subaru people keep real low profiles. There’s a good amount but getting folks gathered is like herding cats. So I’ve heard.

I posted this on the dreaded face boob in the appropriate Subaru groups. Here it’s not likely to get much attention but here goes. It will be a NON ROLLING, NON POWERED carcass. My plan is to remove and keep the front suspension in entirety so nothing left there. And for the rear I’m sure I’ll be removing anything that might assist my upcoming projects. Most likely this will end up scrap. But I figured I’d offer it around the community. Already missing the rear hatch and it’s pretty trashed inside. This would be for the person who is interested in a funky project. Naugatuck Connecticut is the likely location. I’ll update if that changes. Plan is to have the car dropped there this week and within a week have it gone. So please act fast. I canNOT hold the car.

Busting balls here , that’s a parking brake. 6-8 clicks I’m pretty sure is what they are looking for. Got a service manual yet? Plenty on eBay cheap enough.

Congratulations again and great to see more classics in the northeast. Enjoy! Post back your car show trophies.

Awe geez you found your way into the great USMB. Get your ticket for the WBM yet ? Welcome or welcome back whichever may apply. Car looks great!

Sorry, turn the 22mm on the crank clockwise as you look at if from the front.

Easier than you may think. Grab a 22mm socket and ratchet and after removing the covers look for the alignment of the indentations on the sprockets. At one point all should point vertically to their mark on the inner covers and the main in the center you look above and you’ll see the mark I’m sure. Basic cam timing is always marked from the manufacturer. And the rest of the timing is out of our hands these days. Spray the backside of any bolt your going to remove on the covers. Let the nuts soak if you can. The covers tend to rack when the bolts won’t release. So don’t stress those. Just spray and maybe turn inwards a touch then back n forth.

Nice score , congratulations! Ok you’re inspiring. Not sure if you heard but I managed to smash my 94 wagon up a bit. But I’ve got parts and I’m slowly going to revive it. Enjoy!

Man some years have gone by, eh ? I’m doing well enough to pay bills and occasionally laugh a little. Thanks for asking. Hope you’re also paying bills and laughing occasionally or better. Nice to see you’re back. Best of luck!

Thanks Dave. Seems like what I researched a while back but never made a move on. I don’t have a laser cutter. But one way or another I’ll make it happen.

Please post back with your choice of material. I am in the same situation with my 79. I managed to find some rubber bladder type of material and I think I just need to snug my nuts down a bit better. But they are so delicate I sure don’t want to bust one of those tiny studs. Maybe that doesn’t read so well but hey laugh a little.